charliechocolate Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 I'm one of those weirdos who has a hard time riding without toe lift. I thought I'd save a few bucks by 3D printing a few heel lift shims for the F2 bindings I have that don't have them. Has anyone printed binding parts? I figure I'd use ABS for toughness. For the bolts, maybe I can source them from a fastener dealer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 McMaster-Carr, for your bolts/washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 @charliechocolate - see an update on my quest for 3D printed custom lift/cant blocks for F2 bindings over on this thread, if you're still interested: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) Just an update - haven't had much time to work on this this week, but did print another toe piece tonight - finally got the ridge/groove fitting precisely in the groove/ridge on the binding and original lift/cant shims. Also now have the bottom hollowing out, on taller pieces. This is all parameterizable, but for the sample here, I set the wall widths to 5mm - that's the sides, the webs, the lugs around the bolt holes, and the thickness of the top plate (where the geometry is 5mm or greater - its obv thinner in the front part of the toe piece, in this particular configuration). Shown is a rendering of the model w/ 4 deg heel lift, 2 deg left cant and 0.5mm height boost (ie, both pieces raised 0.5mm), and a printed toe piece (white) next to an original toe piece (black). (The real deal will be printed at 100% infill, but for speed of prototyping, they're printing at 40% infill right now.) You can specify any desired combination of lift and/or cant and/or height boost. I need to do a little more tweaking of the model, to allow it to do toe lift. Talked to an attorney about possible risks of making this available on Thingiverse for anyone who wants to use it, and was told it should be low risk with some verbiage added, so should have this up on Thingiverse, after I've beaten on it for a little while on the slopes. Edited January 26, 2018 by jim_s misspelled word 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carvin' Marvin Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 I need these. Are those mock ups for the Large shims? Would you be interested in doing the mediums? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) Hi, Marvin - its kinda bizarre - from what I've seen online, there seems to be one shim size that fits both Small and Large F2 bindings, and then another size that fits size Medium bindings. (For instance, on the YYZCanuk web store, you specify that you want Small/Large, or Medium, when ordering: http://www.yyzcanuck.com/shop/parts/f2-canting-wedge-kit/) I have size Small F2 Titanium bindings, but they came with shims that are marked with an 'L', which I guess confirms this. Anyway, the parameters I'm using presently mimic the dimensions of the shims that came with my size Small bindings. My model is all parametric, so you can set numeric values for things like length and width (as well as the hole diameters/spacings, the radius of the curved ends, etc), in addition to the lift/cant angles and elevation boost, so it should work fine with a different sized shim plate, but I'd like to be sure there aren't any problems with a different set of dimensions. I'd be very curious to know what the size difference is between the S/L and the M sized cant plates - it really blows my mind that Small and Large are the same, but Medium is apparently different, LoL! :-) Do you have calipers, or some other means of making reasonably precise measurements (down to about 1/10 mm would be ideal). If so, I'd like to know: - the length measurement, ie, the distance along the length from the center/tip of the convex front, to the center/valley of the concave rear. (Mine measure 58mm). This would be the length of the ridge/groove section of the shim. - the width of the plate - just outside edge to outside edge - mine measure 50mm, and are a consistent width along the length of the shim - the distance from the front-most point of the front/convex edge, to a line drawn between the center points of the holes (ie, how far back from the very front point, the holes are - mine measure 35mm - the distance from the side edge to the center of the hole - mine measure 5mm - the diameter of the holes - mine measure about 6.6mm I'm going to assume that the ridge and groove are the same between the two sizes, as I can't imagine F2 has separate molds for the toe and heel blocks of the different size bindings. (But then, I'd have never imagine they'd have different molds for S/L and M... :-) If you can send me that info, I'd like to make sure that my model supports them - it should, but I'd feel better knowing for sure that it does. Do you ride with toe lift, or heel lift? (I need to adjust my model to support toe lift - I should be able to get to that this weekend, but presently, it only does heel lift.) Do you have access to a 3D printer? (ideally one that'll print ABS - I fear that PLA could be too brittle in the cold, and might crack) Edited January 26, 2018 by jim_s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carvin' Marvin Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 OK yes so there are two different shim sizes for those. I'm pretty sure the difference between the large and small sets is the length of the baseplate while the mediums use different toe and heel blocks entirely. The hole placement is a little different and the medium shims are shorter. I have both types so I will post comparison pics and measure with some calipers. It really warms my soul that someone is undertaking this because I am totally technically inept in these matters. I think there will be a demand for sure. The cant shims are just too big of a jump sometimes. I ride with the big block for toe lift and outward cant on the front and straight heel lift with the big block on the back. Its the outward cant and toe lift on the front is what I have been having problems dialing in. Ive figured a few methods for fine adjustments but none are ideal. Also the big block is too much toe lift but two opposing shims isn't nearly enough. All attempts to make the block lower have ended in failure. Unfortunately I don't have access to a printer. They seem like cool little things to have especially in this case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) Here is the photo of F2's M vs. S/L wedges. I have F2's Medium bindings and Large bindings and usually orders extra of these whenever I order something else from from YYZCanuck. Wish I have a caliper to measure dimensions to help you out but don't. Edited January 26, 2018 by piusthedrcarve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Awesome stuff Jim! Hand-sanded wood blocks are a thing of the past... :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Awesome stuff Jim, fine gradations of lift and cant have become available for F2s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) So, woke up early this morning, and worked out the tweaks to the model to allow toe lift, and then felt foolish when I realized that, at least for the Small/Large setup that I have, there is no difference in producing heel or toe lift (ignoring cant) - you can just swap the taller/shorter piece from back to front, in order to produce toe lift vs heel lift. <:-) That having been said, if you have left cant in a heel-lifted configuration, and swap heel/toe shims, you now have right cant in your toe-lifted configuration. That's Ok, though, as the model lets you specify which cant direction you want, so you could just reverse the cant for toe lift. (And of course, you could always just print custom lift-only blocks, then use separate printed and/or factory cant-only shims on top of those...) I don't yet know if/how this might affect the size Medium setup - it sounds like maybe the heel and toe pieces are shaped differently on those? Are the heel and toe pieces for the Medium bindings interchangeable? (ie, any Medium block/shim will fit on both the toe or heel piece of the Medium binding? Or are the heel and toe pieces not interchangeable on Medium bindings?) If the Mediums just differ from the Small/Larges, in terms of overall length, and hole placement (also looks like the end radius is different - no problem), then that's easy - the model will already support all that. Lacking caliper measurements (maybe even in addition to caliper measurements), if someone can slap a size medium heel and toe shim, flat-side down, on a copier, and then attach an electronic copy of that here (as a PDF - most modern-day copiers should be able to scan to a PDF and email it to you), I should be able to get good enough measurements off of that paper copy. (Attached is an original Small/Large next to a paper copy of it, from a copier here at work.) Edited January 26, 2018 by jim_s 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carvin' Marvin Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 They are interchangeable across the heel and toe like the S/L ones. I'm at work until Monday, but hopefully after then I can get you some decent measurements on them. I don't think that matching that end radius is super crucial to the function Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 @Carvin' Marvin - sounds good on the measurements - no rush on my end. As regards the end radius - its all adjustable parameters, so once we know the end radius, its just the matter of changing a number, and it'll then print out with the new end radius - no fuss, no muss. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 Based on rough measurements taken from the picture that @piusthedrcarve posted, here's the model with the parameters set for a size Medium binding. This is a rough approximation of the length, hole spacing (along the length of the shims) and end radius, as I took them from measurements on the picture, scaled off of the picture measurements for the Small/Large piece (whose actual dimensions I know), but its probably pretty close. Once I can get hold of the actual measurements, it should be all set. (There's a new parameter "bindingSize", that lets you set "SL" or "M" and will then use the appropriate dimensions.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Latest print (sadly, had a fleck of gunk on the print bed that I hadn't noticed, discolored the toe piece!). Anyway, all is fitting well. Going to run over them repeatedly w/ the van today, and see how they hold up. :-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 durability research is a must lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Van test passed - 20 trips over the shims w/ the front wheel of the van - pausing while on top to let it bear the full weight, and aside from getting a little dirty from the tires (and that washed right off), no sign that it even happened. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger jr Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 That is some cool $hit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) Coming soon to a printer near you, I hope! I just want to beat on it a bit before I turn it loose on anyone else. (And I still need to find the right Open Source license and verbiage to try to keep from getting sued should someone's printed pieces end up breaking and causing any type of injury or such...) Edited January 31, 2018 by jim_s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 This is a new development in the world of alpine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 It can sound a bit overdramatic, but 3D Printing really is democratizing design and manufacturing - its a game changer in a number of ways. Too many 3D Printers at present are used just to turn out little figurines and trinkets, but they can produce genuinely useful creations, that can be customized to the user's specific needs, on-demand, and at low cost. Anyone with a little interest, time, effort and money (very functional printers can be had in the $200-$300 range - that's what I use) can become their own designer and manufacturer. Its all simple in concept, but I personally find it head-spinningly cool! :-) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boarderboy Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) Adidas is releasing a sneaker in which the sole/insole (?) are printed based on the purchaser's foot measurements. The shoes are not cheap, $300 a pop, and in very limited release at the moment. I'll bet this technology will be successful. If it is, and as costs decrease, surely hardboot liners will become available using a similar process. AND THEN, can hardboot shells be far behind? I hope so! It will be a Godsend for people with problem feet and ankles!! https://techcrunch.com/2018/01/18/adidas-joins-carbons-board-as-its-3d-printed-shoes-finally-drop/ BB Edited January 31, 2018 by boarderboy press release 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Yes, already, you can get custom 3D Printed insoles (and even entire shoes/sandals) from several on-line and/or physical-location companies, including Wiivv, Resa, Sols, Podfo, and I'm sure an ever-increasing number of others. I'd looked into trying to use one of these services for insoles for my UPZs, but just didn't yet have the confidence in buying w/o trying. (I went with generic Superfeet Carbon insoles, as I was able to try them out in-person at a store.) A completely custom-built shell would be pretty amazing! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 I will be in contact, to make some bits for my one pair of Snow-pros (bought for my kid's hopeful use).. They are canted, inwards, with no Lift. Totally a use-less 80's concept, and made to be that way... Ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 3D printing binding parts is the future :) My Cateks' front bail kept on flopping forward as it wasn't really designed for step-ins and doesn't have a spring. Printing a catcher from ABS (so it doesn't get brittle in the cold) was dead easy... The result is so nice I might do something similar to my TD2s 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.