lonbordin Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 How can you get 45 degrees with a 19 cm board? What size are your boots? You ride with possibly on of the most advanced carving crews on the planet, what do they say? Look forward to meeting you Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 22 minutes ago, lonbordin said: How can you get 45 degrees with a 19 cm board? What size are your boots? With a lot of overhang (I'm less averse to it than some). I'm on 27s which are probably too big for me. 23 minutes ago, lonbordin said: You ride with possibly on of the most advanced carving crews on the planet, what do they say? I think they've given up on me 23 minutes ago, lonbordin said: Look forward to meeting you Sunday. Not sure I can live up to the hype (I'm really not that interesting) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, JRAZZ said: With a lot of overhang (I'm less averse to it than some). I'm on 27s which are probably too big for me. I think they've given up on me Not sure I can live up to the hype (I'm really not that interesting) Overhang isn't a preference... It's a constant. If one can get away with a lot of overhang then one isn't angulating their board a lot. I don't believe the LCI would give up on a fellow hardbooter unless that person won't listen... You can't help someone who won't help themselves... I look forward to meeting all the board members that I'm lucky enough to! I don't expect everyone to enjoy my company nor would I choose to spend my time with all that I've met. I will bring my binding adjustment tools! Edited January 21, 2020 by lonbordin I always bring my tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 20 minutes ago, lonbordin said: I will bring my binding adjustment tools! Better yet, bring your spy camera and do a bunch of filming. The maths are funky on this one... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 on a side note; I achieve bias by shifting the toe /heel blocks rather than off centering the binder to board, thus keeping all stance width and set back adjustability in play 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 The only problem I have with shifting the boot in the binding is that it moves the boot more forward. The board as is already likes to autorotate. But again, it seems that splaying the back foot out makes much more difference to my riding than anything I do with the front foot. I guess I really need that to initiate a toe side turn. It makes a super big difference to me. Without the cant I felt my kneed were in-line along the board and I couldn't roll to my left. When I added the whacky angle with outside cant i could. I also tried just the cant without the angle and it wasn't enough. Btw, you realize that all of this talk is just that, talk. The real work is on the hill, playing with my bindings. The good news is that at least my Coiler is set up wonderfully and is super fun to ride. Now I'm just trying to understand why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 i had a somewhat related issue that i solved by going back to stock UPZ springs and adjusting my rear boot with a few clicks of forward lean in order to compensate for my limited ankle dorsiflexion. That solved my whole "i don't feel relaxed on the flats/carpet feeling" i also experimented a lot with different canting and eventually settled in inwards boot cuff canting on the rear boot and a little on the binding and 6/6 toe heel lift. Those changes made a drastic improvement in my riding and now i can actually feel relaxed on the board. This also solved most of my front pirate leg issue. I would take a systematic approach here and take full day to test out 1 change only, at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 On 1/20/2020 at 7:37 PM, Beckmann AG said: Better yet, bring your spy camera and do a bunch of filming. A GoPro made the trip... Imagine that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 ^This should be interesting. 22 hours ago, JRAZZ said: Now I'm just trying to understand why. Points/areas of contact with respect to time. Within reason, your board does what you ask of it. Might be you're speaking slang, when it needs to hear proper English. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kijima Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 (edited) On 1/12/2020 at 5:37 AM, JRAZZ said: My main problem is that the board never wanted to go straight. Coming off the lift it would always swing counterclockwise (I'm a regular rider). I see people getting stuck like that every day coming off the lift. I bet at that moment your behind is poking out and you can fix it by pushing your hips toward the toe edge. Bring the front knee in toward your back knee if needed. Snowboards only follow the inputs you provide. Edited January 24, 2020 by Kijima 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kijima Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 (edited) On 1/12/2020 at 4:43 AM, JRAZZ said: I finally figured out that the size L binding may have put my boots too far back towards the heel edge. I moved them one hole in the toe side direction and the board transformed! Made it much much easier. Because your body weight shifted toe side with the binding move it allowed your same body position to put more weight over your toe edge and kind of fixed your problem. Kind of fixed the problem but certainly identified it. You could achieve the same end by thrusting your hips toe side a bit and relearning that as your new normal. Edited January 24, 2020 by Kijima Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 On 1/20/2020 at 7:26 PM, lonbordin said: How can you get 45 degrees with a 19 cm board? What size are your boots? On 1/20/2020 at 7:51 PM, JRAZZ said: With a lot of overhang (I'm less averse to it than some). I'm on 27s which are probably too big for me. Forgive me for staying the obvious, but if your boots are indeed too big, most of the suggestions you'll get won't have a chance to be helpful, especially if they've accurately spotted another issue. Your foot's center is likely well back from your boot's center, so offsetting the bindings toeside may just be centering your feet. That's quite a hack, and getting boots that fit well would be a much better fix, if only to reduce misleading spurious issues. (The Beckmann procedure starts with getting your boots set up). Assuming that extra boot is at most a contributor to your issue, but not the major one, I'll suggest a potential cause of your autorotation. This plagues me in many ways, and I have still not 100% dealt with it properly. Beckmann pointed this connection out to me at ECES several years ago. Standing flat, while you're supposed to have "three points of support" on each foot, I only have two: heel and metatarsal for little toe. That is, I'm on the outsides of my feet. Letting the ball of my foot reach the ground puts my joints in an uncomfortable, grinding, unstable configuration (and causes knee issues for me). So riding one-footed off the lift is sketchy and either I'm stuck on heelside (and autorotate, though I've learned to control it a bit with back foot placement and maybe some contortions as others have suggested), or I'm fully committed to toeside. There's no middle ground, as having a balanced posture either requires "two-point" support (heelside leverage) or three-point support and compensating postural contortions that put me over the toeside edge (toeside pressure and leverage). There's a huge "dead zone" in between these extremes (air space under the ball of the foot). So transitioning from one to the other is nearly impossible, and will usually result in a caught edge. Maybe you have a similar situation? When I see riders with large difference in front and rear angles, I suspect this. Rotating the feet outwards allows the ball of the foot to reach the ground with less inward torque on the knees. Instead a little forward flexing does the job. But it's no help riding one-footed.I Hope that's at least slightly useful. The fix is to have support under the ball of the foot to allow "three point support" with a balanced, aligned posture . Beckmann suggested a particular kind of thick duct tape on the bottom of the footbed, layered under the area, adding layers until it feels stable (no twitchiness). I have not gotten this right yet. Way better than without, for sure. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 19 hours ago, teach said: Beckmann suggested a particular kind of thick duct tape on the bottom of the footbed, layered under the area, adding layers until it feels stable (no twitchiness). Nashua 557 or equivalent. Designed for flexible ducting, it has some elasticity, therefore cushioning. Should stress that this is a practical way for the average person to experiment temporarily with forefoot posting, as a lead-in to a longer term solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 22 hours ago, teach said: Your foot's center is likely well back from your boot's center, so offsetting the bindings toeside may just be centering your feet. That's quite a hack, and getting boots that fit well would be a much better fix, if only to reduce misleading spurious issues. (The Beckmann procedure starts with getting your boots set up). I had a surprising reduction is foot size over the past year. I actually dropped a full mondopoint. One and a half year ago I measured my foot at 27.5. It now measures closer to 26.3. Yeah, I know... So that is my hack trying to recenter my foot. New boots are in the future but not yet. (Backlands? Maybe) 22 hours ago, teach said: So riding one-footed off the lift is sketchy and either I'm stuck on heelside (and autorotate, though I've learned to control it a bit with back foot placement and maybe some contortions as others have suggested), or I'm fully committed to toeside. There's no middle ground, as having a balanced posture either requires "two-point" support (heelside leverage) or three-point support and compensating postural contortions that put me over the toeside edge (toeside pressure and leverage). There's a huge "dead zone" in between these extremes (air space under the ball of the foot). So transitioning from one to the other is nearly impossible, and will usually result in a caught edge. Yup. I think we're in the same boat Thank you for sharing. Doesn't solve the problem but at least I know I'm not alone. I'm wondering though if this has something to do with my unamerican use of outward canting... I mean I know it's wrong but I can't seem to be able to live without it That being said, I only bring it up because of Beckmann's guide about one footing it. I can deal with sketchy offloading and the rest of the LCI have learned to stay away from me! (I have been admonished by @big mario many times after straying too close to his topsheet) My main problem is that I don't feel comfortable on my board. It is sometimes really hard to initiate a toe side. In fact, the only time I felt any different is on my NFCB where I run 50/35 (20 cm waist board). Yes, I am getting toe drag and yes I do feel it but the board is wonderfully controllable and way more fun to ride! So is it the cant angles? Front or back? The boot angles? I have not found out yet. I figure that I need to feel comfortable first, technique second. 22 hours ago, teach said: The fix is to have support under the ball of the foot to allow "three point support" with a balanced, aligned posture . Beckmann suggested a particular kind of thick duct tape on the bottom of the footbed, layered under the area, adding layers until it feels stable (no twitchiness). I have not gotten this right yet. Way better than without, for sure. Hmmmmm.... Will have to try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 In addition to the duct tape build-up under the ball of the foot i use a fair amount of outward canting on both bindings. I expect that getting the foot support right will reduce the need for outward canting, but have not reached that point yet. The airspace-under-the-ball-of-the foot syndrome causes the flattened out foot to measure a lot longer than when it's properly supported. In my case, it's at least a centimeter difference. Get some playing cards and stack them under the ball of your bare foot until standing one-footed relaxed is possible (no twitchiness). Then measure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 On 1/25/2020 at 4:32 PM, JRAZZ said: I figure that I need to feel comfortable first, technique second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted January 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2020 ^^^ yes, I often wanted to bang my boots against the wall. Went up to the resort today equipped with a 5mm allen wrench and a notepad! (note to self: next time bring a 2mm wrench to dig out the snow!) My setup: Donek Proteus 170cm. SCR: 11. Waist: 11. TD2, intec with yellow elastomer. Front foot was set up flat and the back foot had the 3 deg cant set up perpendicular to the board. I played with the angles and here are my notes: 60/50: Shit. Unridable. Can't turn. 50/40: Much better, back knee still tucked in. 50/35: Wow! This is fun!! I also tried my F2 bindings which have pretty much the same setup except that the front foot has a 1.5 deg outward cant. It felt slightly better. Conclusion? F2s are better than TD2s! So with the front foot flat and 50 degrees I was able to easily offload but the outward cant helped me on flat terrain (board did not auto-turn). I'm going to stay with the 50/35 for now. I did notice one more thing. when I stand with my feet parallel the boots are splayed out. Not sure what that means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted February 1, 2020 Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 You left a lot on the table there, not playing with outward cant on front or less extreme outward cant on the rear with the highly adjustable td2s. Did you do anything with foot support in the boots? Sounds like you're getting somewhere in any case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2020 I'm going to try the original liners in the boots. They are higher volume so might give me a bit more stability. I originally tossed them out since they hurt my feet but now they actually feel almost roomy. There's more playing to be done. Ultimately I'd like to be able to bring the angles back up so I don't have as much overhang but I don't know how to do that. I tried that a couple of times but every time I felt that it made my board really difficult to turn. The only thing that I can think of is increasing my stance from 19" to 20" or so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmoore Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 I've asked this question before but need some clarification. I ride a 170 cm Kessler GS board with Trench Digger step in bindings (58/54). Age 73, height 5' 8" weight 175. 3 degree upward cant on forward foot and 3 degree downward cant on rear foo (although the issue is the same when riding without cants). In years past my front leg did most of the work and quad burn was a real issue especally in the early season. The past couple of years I've experienced the complete opposite with quad burn on the rear leg. I'm also struggling with heelside turns while racing. I've tried to shift my weight forward with no luck. I seem to recall the someone suggested moving the bindings back a bit although a poster above suggests moving them forward. I'm not changing anything for tomorrow's race but would like to experiment in the days ahead. Suggestions? . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 From the setup bible (http://beckmannag.com/hardboot-snowboarding/hardboot-binding-configuration/1front-bindingsetback) Quote Where you mount your front binding will have a marked effect on how ‘neutral’ your board responds. For this reason, front binding location should be determined functionally, rather than geometrically. This location will vary based on rider weight, and to a lesser extent, binding angle. If the front binding is set too close to the tip of the board, the board will skid out easily on a heel-side turn, and feel quite twitchy in general. It will also be difficult to traverse heel-side one-footed, on shallow terrain, without the board spinning out. Unloading lifts may present a challenge. On soft or variable snow, the danger of ‘folding the nose’ is increased. If the front binding is mounted too far back, the board will behave, but it may seem to take an awfully long time for a turn to come around. This sensation may take a few runs to realize, but if the board does not feel nimble, and it feels like you are driving a bucket loader around town, the front binding is set too far back. For the neophytes (and you know who you are), if the board does not skid out on a heel-side turn when you ‘sit on the toilet’, then your front binding is set too far back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmoore Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 45 minutes ago, JRAZZ said: From the setup bible (http://beckmannag.com/hardboot-snowboarding/hardboot-binding-configuration/1front-bindingsetback) Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmoore Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 I decided to go out and try it anyway. I moved each binding back one slot and it seemed to work better. I may try one more slot after tomorrow's race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted February 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 Improvement!!! But first, I found that my arch is considered "high". Got better insoles with more support but I can't tell the difference in response or riding. I've also noticed that when standing with my feet parallel it seems almost as though the boots are "toe out". Anybody ever notice that? Is this just a Track 700 asymmetrical shell thing or is that me? Anyway, I found that a stance of 65/50 works well for me too. Even aligns me more forward so that's a plus. I seem to need that 15 degrees of splay to feel stable. Once I have that feeling pressuring the cuff of the front boot becomes much easier and then the board responds wonderfully in return. I also found that I ride better with my straps on the looser side. It's kind of annoying since the response is not as direct as I'd like but I feel way more in control. I feel that fore-aft the boots aren't supportive enough but laterally I need more flexibility. The experimentation continues.... (but at least I'm making headway!) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 It's possible that looser buckles allow you to steer with feet more. As for the side flex, you can get that from the bindings. Try adding the suspension kit to those TD2s, or upgrading to the TD3 elastomers and discs. Or, switch to flexier bindings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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