KB303 Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 As part of my return back into alpine riding, I'm very much in a mode of trying a bunch of new things. Sadly these bindings aren't right for me. Although I knew the lift was adjustable, I didn't realize they would be quite this flat. Frank said that 95% of their customers ride them in this configuration, which is a flat front (one block under both the toe and heel), and the rear has about a 1-degree lift as best as I was able to measure (one block under the toe, two blocks under the heel). Frank offered to send more blocks and longer screws if I felt I needed them. However I think it would take a fair bit to get to 3 degrees, and I'm now toying around with the idea of a 6-degree lift at least on the front (so considering some TD3s now). I just have one day on this set. Unfortunately I experimented with too many variables at once, and my stance (and riding) was jacked. I'm guessing that's why the rubber pads on the toe piece incurred some damage because I was trying to steer madly with my feet. Besides that, the bindings and dampening pads are in the same condition as they were shipped. I feel badly about the rubber pads, and just want to recoup some of my money at this point. Purchased for $392. Selling for $225 including shipping in the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kneel Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 You know F2 Heel/Toe lift blocks work, right? Just file down the protrusion on the bottom of the block. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB303 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 Hey Kneel, good word. I did run across this fact somewhere, and it's helpful to hear that the protrusion would need to be filed down. However, are there 6-degree F2 blocks? I thought they only went to 3. I'm leaning more towards 6-degrees at this point, probably both front and rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 You can stack them. Not sure if they are exactly 3 degrees. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB303 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 Good point, @Neil Gendzwill. I hadn't thought of that. Although I just removed the heel piece to set it at a 6-degree angle and see if I could still drop the screw straight down as needed to screw into the plate. Where the head meets the heel piece, there doesn't appear to be enough play there to maintain a flush connection at that angle. Three degrees looks good, as @Kneel confirmed in his setup. But I think six degrees is a bit too much as the head would be at an angle to the sole piece rather than flush with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibrussell Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 On my F2's I just run a 6deg rectangle Burton 4hole cant in the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 You need both the heel and toe pieces. https://www.yyzcanuck.com/shop/parts/binding-parts/f2-heel-toe-lift-kit/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 55 minutes ago, KB303 said: Where the head meets the heel piece, there doesn't appear to be enough play there to maintain a flush connection at that angle. Three degrees looks good, as @Kneel confirmed in his setup. But I think six degrees is a bit too much as the head would be at an angle to the sole piece rather than flush with it. Yeah, you have to shut off the engineering part of your brain. The head of the bolts is loaded at an angle. You'd be fired from an engineering job if you did that in a highly-stressed connection, but it seems that the load we put into the bolts is too small to matter. It's fine in actual use. The SG bindings have a spherical washer to accomodate this angle. Bomber bindings keep the sole blocks flat to the baseplate and tilt the whole plate. Everyone out there with F2 bindings and cant/lift are showing that it doesn't matter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB303 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 46 minutes ago, Neil Gendzwill said: You need both the heel and toe pieces. Certainly. I was just trying one to see what the angle of the screw to the sole block would be like. 33 minutes ago, Corey said: Yeah, you have to shut off the engineering part of your brain. Phew, yeah, a lot easier said than done in this crazy, hyper-analytical brain of mine. I really appreciate your perspective on this, though, and it's tempting to give it a shot. Also this discussion has been very helpful as I might try this approach with my SG bindings. Ultimately, however, it just makes more sense to me to go with a product that was designed for the need I am trying to meet rather than trying to make this work with the Powerlocks when the modifications seem pretty far outside the intended design of the bindings. I would be happier if these went to a rider who needs less lift than I do, and I know I would be more comfortable / more confident on bindings that were designed with 6 degrees of lift in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kneel Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 I agree. I just stacked them and 6 would look like you're riding in high heels. I'm the wrong engineer(systems) to be giving advice, but I'd be concerned about the plastic fatigue over the bolt heads being flush as a point of failure. FWIW, it's a good binding and running the F2 heel/toe lift shouldn't be a deterrent in snapping these up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB303 Posted January 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 Thanks, @Kneel! I really appreciate you taking the time to check this out on your bindings and to provide your perspective. The F2 lifts on the binding do look great; love your setup. I think with the UPZ RC12 boot, I'm getting pitched a little too far forward even when I lock the forward lean in the most upright angle. I used to ride 3-degrees, but I think 6 is in order with these boots. I'm considering going with a stiffer tongue as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 I'd probably take these off of your hands if they were step-ins. I like them for their simplicity, durability, appearance, and for their ability to reduce stack-height significantly (though adding blocks for heel/toe lift somewhat reduces that last advantage). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB303 Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 good to hear. I appreciate your perspective on these. There's certainly a lot I like about them. Just wish I didn't need so much lift. Hopefully these will be a great match for someone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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