MNSurfer Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 I have a 5mm BoilerPlate, to which I mounted a pair of TD3's. The whole set-up felt a bit wonky and uncontrolled, compared to my other rig with a AF Plate, and F2's (no riser thingy). My guess is that I need the BP disk kit. So my question is, do you find your cant angels change, when using a Plate? I run 3 and 6 when directly mounted to the board. I didn't change anything with the F2 setup, other then removing the plastic riser piece. But that just also has a different canting system (read: didn't want to dick with it). Thanks! -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 My guess is that the 5mn Boiler plate is much stiffer that the AF plate and you're ability to peddle the board has been diminished which creates less control especially at slower speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) With a plate- F2 bindings, Apex Race V2 plate on a Kessler 168: toe lift front, heel lift rear. Without a plate- F2 Titanflexenstein on a 21.5cm wide Donek Nomad 164: toe lift front, heel lift rear, inward cant front. I have never felt any wonkiness in these set ups, though, as you have mentioned, so I doubt this is any help. Edited January 3, 2019 by daveo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Same with plate or not. I just dont get why people think BP5mm as stiff. I got it flex quite with my lazy 80kg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) I actually think the Apex is hella stiff but honestly never caused any trouble at slow speeds. Actually, it feels brilliant at slow speeds. I can never figure out what people are talking about when they have these slow speed complaints with plates. @barryj might have some back to back input since he has just installed a Boiler Plate on his board... Edited January 3, 2019 by daveo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) I've owned a gen 1 5mm Boilerplate until it was stolen. I currently own a 4mm Boilerplate and an original duckbill Apex plate. The original 5mm bpp was tortionally much stiffer then either of the two plates I now own. All of them reduce ones ability to peddle the board and, of course mute board feedback... It's what they are designed to do. I don't change my setup when I ride my plates. I admit I ride them far less often now than I used too. My geckos are enough to deal with crappy conditions while being super light and allow me to make my board into a Mobius strip. Edited January 3, 2019 by lonbordin Look up old BPP modification threads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 I had the same impression of the 5mm Boilerplate as lonbordin. Fin used to offer the service to cut a slot down the middle of it to give it some more flex which was especially welcome torsionally. This could be a relatively easy DIY project. I use the same cants on a plate or not. Bomber BP lower kit helps to reduce stack height, I prefer using them with plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Interesting. I've ridden a BP 5mm on an SG Full Carve 170 not sure which gen, though. Felt basically the same as my plate. In saying that, I'm probably just not good enough to feel the difference. Probably as in definitely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 18 minutes ago, lonbordin said: and allow me to make my board into a Mobius strip. Surf's up. https://www.iamag.co/the-art-of-moebius/#jp-carousel-121210 6 minutes ago, Jack M said: Fin used to offer the service to cut a slot down the middle of it to give it some more flex which was especially welcome torsionally. This could be a relatively easy DIY project. Use a carbide cutter. Carbon fibre will quickly dull HSS. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 @MN Surfer The problem may not be with the binding canting. The problem may be with how you have set up the BBP. My experience with sliding axle isolation plates, inc the BBP, is that for adult size riders the best performance comes from setting the axles as far apart as possible. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) 8 minutes ago, SunSurfer said: the best performance comes from setting the axles as far apart as possible. Hmm. I tried this and it kind of made my board ride super long. I brought them in 1 UPM notch and things felt more natural. Edited January 3, 2019 by daveo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Key factor here is how wide is riders stance. For some BP is on quite limit to get it setup, and with F2's end of bindings hang partially on air. On my current plate hinge spacing is 83cm and it is better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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