TD1 Question and an Idea

[Beckmann AG]

13 hours ago, slopestar said:

Drill out a td-2 and call it good.

And while you're at it, craft a complete binding out of tinfoil.

The center of the TD2 is only a few mm thick, whereas the screw head bearing area on the 1,2, and 3 is .250". 

14 hours ago, Jack M said:

But then there'd be no suspension whatsoever.  Maybe that would be ok.

You'd be fine, so long as you adjusted your technique a smidge. You might even like it, and/or gain valuable insight.

Besides which, persistent reference to bumpers and pads as a 'suspension' system is misleading, and delays the development of an actual suspension. 

->I've got plenty of TD1 base plates if you want to fix a set to the Geckos. I don't have any step ins, so you're on your own for the toe and heel blocks.

Might even be able to make you a custom set of TD1 pucks.  I still have that raw disc you gave me waaaaaaaay back when.

20 hours ago, Corey said:

Catek did this with a small O-ring to preload the central spherical nut. 

The WC and OS1 did not use an o-ring, relying instead on sufficient bearing surface between the nut and base plate, and also particular attention on the part of the user to properly assemble.

5 hours ago, pokkis said:

Comparing can be done only by building and testing, and what is better for one person is or can be worse for other one

Building the better binding is like brewing the better coffee. Most won't be satisfied with the product on account of previous experience/unrealistic expectations.

 

 

Edited October 23, 2018 by Beckmann AG

[slopestar]

Beckmann, 

tinfoil td-4 is coming to a store near you. I’m waiting with baited breath for your review I think it’s awesome you got out your micrometer for that one

Edited October 23, 2018 by slopestar

[Kneel]

I'll just leave these here for your review. While I love the Geckos, my non-engineer gut and first person experience tells me the fingers will be a liability in what you describe.  This was with F2 Ti bindings.  You can see the outline in the second picture.  I suspect the metal edge of the binding compromised the structure first then the rest catastrophically failed, but was it excess flex of the finger that permitted the metal edge to come in contact first? The geckos also began to delam at the bumper, but I'll have to track down those pictures. Perhaps it was a bad batch? Dunno, but I'd look at the fingerless Kessler equivalent before the geckos...

 

 

[Jack M]

6 hours ago, pokkis said:

I would not add blocks directly to Geckos due that could stress those pilars too much.

Impossible anyway, as there would be nothing holding the system to the board.  Geckos rely on the binding trapping them.

7 minutes ago, Kneel said:

I'll just leave these here for your review.

Thanks for that, good to know - e-ring shall remain.

1 hour ago, Beckmann AG said:

The center of the TD2 is only a few mm thick

I misprocessed TD2 as TD1 in that post.  Indeed the center of a TD2 is too thin.  I think it was tongue-in-cheek though.

[pokkis]

7 minutes ago, Jack M said:

Impossible anyway, as there would be nothing holding the system to the board.  Geckos rely on the binding trapping them. 

Nope, one can put screws directly from Geckos to pilars, just by leaving bindings off.

[Jack M]

9 minutes ago, pokkis said:

Nope, one can put screws directly from Geckos to pilars, just by leaving bindings off.

Well, yeah, but you'd need to buy the right length screws and some washers and even then it's probably not a good idea to do that to the plates as they weren't designed for that kind of loading.  However this does raise the idea of a binding whose baseplate is something like a Gecko.

[Corey]

1 hour ago, Jack M said:

However this does raise the idea of a binding whose baseplate is something like a Gecko.

Bomber Happy Fun Plate anyone?  Shame the pictures are dead: http://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/topic/24057-chronicles-of-the-happy-fun-plate-at-the-bomber-factory/ 

[Jack M]

57 minutes ago, Corey said:

Bomber Happy Fun Plate anyone?

Ha!  What I'm thinking of isn't anything like that though.  That was an early attempt at a full isolation plate, with lockable torsion control.

[neanderthal]

On 10/23/2018 at 7:51 AM, Jack M said:

  However this does raise the idea of a binding whose baseplate is something like a Gecko.

Someone  develop a binding with a Gecko like baseplate and I'm in!!! - Seriously I will purchase day one.

[pokkis]

This what i'm standing on currently on slope

[Beckmann AG]

Those are specific to your angles, correct?

Inserts for the binding mounts, or through bolts with nuts?

Plate thickness? And of that, how many layers of fabric v foam?

Do you want any flex in that plate, or rock solid?

Held to the board only by way of the 4x4 pattern, or?

 

[pokkis]

It is made for me only, so angles can be adjusted 50 to 65 degrees.

It is inserted using 4*4 inserts of the board.

It is flexing suitable for me. Been playing with various thickneses, shapes and number and placement of bushings, so flex is combination of those all, and also hardnes of bushings.

[Jack M]

1 hour ago, pokkis said:

This what i'm standing on currently on slope

 

That's a great start.  Any cant or lift?  What's the durometer on those bumpers?  I like that we can see that there is some sliding happening between your plate and the board.   Have you done an a/b comparison between this setup and stock F2s?  Are these a one-off of your design or is someone producing them?  I spy holes for Burton 3D inserts too.  I would think TD toe/heel assemblies would save a little weight without the complex sizing mechanism.  There is some sizing and micro adjustment in the TD units.  My untested hypothesis about setting up Gecko plates asymmetrically is that they will impose a twist on the board when flexed, which would certainly apply here, but maybe it isn't significant.

1 hour ago, pokkis said:

angles can be adjusted 50 to 65 degrees

That would work for a lot of people.

[pokkis]

No cant, just lift on rear. Duro's 75-90. Standard F2 is more rough due missing suspension, i have not used F2 CNC's yet, just got them during summer. And i prefer F2 parts over TD's, except TD Intecx receiver for my wife due it is much shorter than F2 and even then i needed machine part of it away for 23 size boot.

Drilling holes for 3D is easy, but i dont need them. Center hole is just to easir find stance width point from board. Symmetrically, i prefer these, and Geckos set up asymmetrically due standard F2's are also installed asymmetrically.

These are made by me for me.

Edited October 31, 2018 by pokkis