jburk Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 These things have a seriously good adhesive, normally a good thing. Has anyone had any luck removing one of these without damaging the topsheet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 I just pull it off slowly. Maybe heat it first with a blow dryer or sun and/or use a metal scraper to pry it up slowly from the corner. One thing I notice: when I get a base grind that stomp pad catches in the roller mechanism and causes a slight deviation in the smoothness of the grind on the base. It makes me want to pull the pad off each time... My question: what adhesive do you use to reuse the pad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 i would suggest you find another guy to grind your base Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 10 minutes ago, buster said: i would suggest you find another guy to grind your base What is my guy lacking? Is it the machine or technique? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted June 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 The reason I started this topic was because of getting a base grind; the tech said he wasn’t comfortable running it through with the spike stomp pad, too much chance of it coming out uneven, and he also wasn’t confident he could get the pad off without marking up the top sheet, it currently doesn’t have a single scratch or blemish, I’d rarher have a cautious tech than an inconsistent base grind, and I’d rather I mark up the topsheet myself instead of second-guessing the hapless tech after the fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted June 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 If only someone had acesss to a 3D printer large enough to print s bridge that could be mounted to a set of inserts in the front and rear insert pack. If you can run skis through the machine with the bridge that looks to be about 4in tall, something tall enough to only straddle the stomp pad should definitely be feasible. But it would probably be $150 to print it… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted June 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 36 minutes ago, rjnakata said: My question: what adhesive do you use to reuse the pad? Was planning on using the industrial version Velcro, I’ve used it on a stomp pad on another board and the pad never budged, but could be pulled off if you started from a corner. Makes it easy to stack boards for travel as well, pull of the stomp pads on all but one board and throw them in with the bindings, just reattach when you get there. Step on it once and it’s good. Wish I’d done it to this board. VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" Wide Tape, 4' - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IC2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ByLZgcqBeeHLe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 (edited) When you order your next board from Bruce, request Vist inserts to board so you can use them to screw stomp in and remove it easily. Works. I have put my stomp on thin carbon fibre plate and use screws to insert it with stomp when i ride without plate, and screw off when use plate If your board has AllFlex inserts, they can be used also for same thing. Edited June 7, 2018 by pokkis 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davekempmeister Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 59 minutes ago, pokkis said: When you order your next board from Bruce, request Vist inserts to board so you can use them to screw stomp in and remove it easily. Works. I have put my stomp on thin carbon fibre plate and use screws to insertit with stomp when i ride without plate, and screw off when use plate If your board has AllFlex inserts, they can be used also for same thing. Super Smart. Pokkis has a big brain, for sure. spellcheck would have changed it to bug brain. nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnE Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 Use a hair dryer. Heat up the stomp pad. It should then pull off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 If a stomp pad tears off your topsheet, I don't think the board is safe to ride. A little warmth helps to get it off. Start at a corner and make a long slow pull where you progressively walk side to side and it'll come up. Every one of mine has left 75% of the glue on the topsheet, which sucks. It takes lots of time and Goo Gone to get the mess off. 7 hours ago, jburk said: Was planning on using the industrial version Velcro, I’ve used it on a stomp pad on another board and the pad never budged, but could be pulled off if you started from a corner. Makes it easy to stack boards for travel as well, pull of the stomp pads on all but one board and throw them in with the bindings, just reattach when you get there. Step on it once and it’s good. Wish I’d done it to this board. VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" Wide Tape, 4' - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IC2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ByLZgcqBeeHLe This - soo much this! I'll never stick another stomp pad directly to a board after trying this. Spend some time sticking the Velcro nicely to the underside of the pad so you don't have big visible air bubbles. For reference: Canadian Tire is the cheapest place for black 2" wide industrial Velcro I've found in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 12 hours ago, rjnakata said: My question: what adhesive do you use to reuse the pad? Denatured alcohol will remove adhesive residue and prepares surface for good adhesion. I use contact cement to re-attach. I have reused many spike pads this way (removing them with heat), but then I don't travel with boards stacked together and haven't needed a base grind in years, so it's just when I'm trading out an old board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 15 hours ago, rjnakata said: What is my guy lacking? Is it the machine or technique? What jburk's tech said. I think most techs would remove everything from the board before grinding. I could be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keenan Posted June 7, 2018 Report Share Posted June 7, 2018 1 hour ago, buster said: What jburk's tech said. I think most techs would remove everything from the board before grinding. I could be wrong. I'm surprised that they don't have a bridge. That means they have to remove the bindings from every board they grind, mark the position and re-mount. I would think that the one time cost of a bridge would cover the time it takes the tech to deal with the bindings after about 20 boards. Jburke: I talked to The Mountain Shop, they said they can adjust the pressure of the grinder and you shouldn't need to remove the stomp pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted June 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 12 minutes ago, Keenan said: I talked to The Mountain Shop, they said they can adjust the pressure of the grinder and you shouldn't need to remove the stomp pad. @Keenan thanks for checking, the “other shop” has already done the minor ptex repairs and storage wax on the board, so I’ll just leave it at that. It’s the Donek FC/Secret I bought at the start of the season, was prepping it for resale in Aug or September, it’s probably a toss-up what’s more attractive to a potential buyer: a fresh base grind or pretty minor ptex repairs. The tech said the repairs came out so well and the structure that Donek put on it when new last fall was still so nice that he was reluctant to grind and restructure it. @Donek: he was really impressed with the craftsmanship that went into the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 It sounds like this one is solved but here's a trick which works well for this and any similar issue where heat but not too much heat is needed. Take one of those microwaveable heating pads (or a cloth bag full of dry uncooked rice) and heat it in the microwave until it's almost too hot to touch but not quite. Then set it on the area to be heated and leave it for a minute or so. The. glue will release but there's never enough heat to damage epoxy or paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 Here one i use on 1.5mm Carbon plate with AllFlex inserts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 15 hours ago, Keenan said: I'm surprised that they don't have a bridge. That means they have to remove the bindings from every board they grind, mark the position and re-mount. I would think that the one time cost of a bridge would cover the time it takes the tech to deal with the bindings after about 20 boards. Jburke: I talked to The Mountain Shop, they said they can adjust the pressure of the grinder and you shouldn't need to remove the stomp pad. Ive never seen a snowboard bridge... that thing would have to be pretty huge.. but seems like it could be a time-efficient asset for base grinding. WD40 is an excellent adhesive remover, just allow it to soak in a bit, and a hair dryer/heat gun could also be used to speed things up. Jonny's idea also sounds interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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