finishing edges and bases w/o a Steigermeister

[1xsculler]

Not sure Steigermeister is correct but how are you guys finishing/tuning/re-finishing your bases and edges without the fancy machine.

[st_lupo]

Which Steigermeister?  A google search turns up interesting results.

I guess it depends a lot on your snow conditions and the condition of the board in it's current state.  As long as the base is more or less true I've never bothered with base grinds.  I just take advantage of the wet-snow suction to slow me down on steeper trails during late season, but even then how much of the base is even touching the snow?  I've also never had to set a base edge angle on any of my boards (I've got one F2 and 2 Coilers that worked great brand-new, and my Kessler works fine in it's current condition), but on my daughter's skis I always set a .5 degree base edge at the start of the season.  Side edges I use a fixed file guide and diamond stones to deburr and maintain sharpness on the full effective edge.  It hasn't been icy this year so I'm touching up maybe once every 10 trips to the hill.

 

I'll bet the Montucky boys will chime in on this...

[lonbordin]

Trying to anticipate the next question...

 

 

Edited February 26, 2018 by lonbordin
​​​​​​​:-D

[BobD]

For several years now, I have been using wet and dry paper on my edges. I cut aluminum bar into about five inch sections, and use a light coat of spray adhesive to adhere the paper to the bar. After several passes along the edge, I advance the bar on the guide about 3/16". You can see the wear lines from advancing the bar on the W & D paper. I got the idea from the crazy sharp videos. I normally just go from 100 grit to 400 grit, but have gone up 2000 grit on occasion. The smaller bar fits in a base edge guide.

Edited February 26, 2018 by BobD

[daveo]

Nice idea. If I hadn't just bought a set of moonflex I'd do this. Hell, I'll do it anyway. 

[SunSurfer]

Wintersteiger AG

[Corey]

2 hours ago, BobD said:

For several years now, I have been using wet and dry paper on my edges. I cut aluminum bar into about five inch sections, and use a light coat of spray adhesive to adhere the paper to the bar. After several passes along the edge, I advance the bar on the guide about 3/16". You can see the wear lines from advancing the bar on the W & D paper. I got the idea from the crazy sharp videos. I normally just go from 100 grit to 400 grit, but have gone up 2000 grit on occasion. The smaller bar fits in a base edge guide.

Nice! I wondered about doing this after reading the crazy sharp stuff. I've just been using diamond stones. 

[Eric Brammer aka PSR]

THE true TEST is by light-gap, against a Machinist Tru-Bar, for base-to-edge bevels.These are variable, pending previous base-to-edge tuning!  Hopefully, you can find an end-point that's quite close to 'base-flat' from which to work from! The Acute Angles of edge need to be compared to a true 90* angle. This can change quite a bit along an edge's length, pending how it's tuned along That Axis, along the Edge. Use ACUTE and Obtuse to define edge angle, but REFER from the Sidewall or, preferably, the BASE.