Edge detunning

[snowwjob1]

Does anyone have recommendations on an appropriate amount of detunning and which areas of the tip and tail to focus on. I know there should be some but have never really thought about until today. I rode my new Donek FC in secret construction the bevel is 2-1 but did not detune any of the edge. Although the edge hold was amazing I felt if I relaxed for half a second I may be thrown.

[Beckmann AG]

9 minutes ago, snowjob said:

Although the edge hold was amazing I felt if I relaxed for half a second I may be thrown.

Assuming you have access to a reputable shop, get the base ground, and make sure it's structured for cold snow. Not uncommon for new boards to be a little 'off', as the epoxy may still be curing between the time the board is factory ground,  and when the end user first rides it.

[snowwjob1]

Board was full tuned but they were hesitant to detune since it is a race board. I have typically detunned the first 2 inches on the tip of the hell side and the same 2 inches  on the tail of the toe side. But I forgot before I took the board out. Now I am wondering what is the (proper way).

[Beckmann AG]

'De-tune' shouldn't really create what you describe. Base bevel is more or less appropriate, which leaves the plastic as culprit.

Have you had good/consistent base grinding from the shop in question?

Anyhow, I detune only to where the edge meets the snow. It almost sounds like your usual detune procedure is used to accommodate something else going on with riding mechanics.

[RobertAlexander]

I never detune anything, sharp a razor every where.  You will get he hang of riding like this and be better off  for it.    Then if you did detune, you will wish that you had not.    There are snow conditions on the ice coast, at many times, you need to be as sharp as possible, tip and tail.,... well every where.  

And if you must detune,  very gently, just a little very lightly, with a mild gummy stone.      I have seen absolute nightmares of boards edges detuned by using a file,  2/3 of the steel edge was Gone!   Could have used a disc grinder by the looks of it.   

[BlueB]

Boards with decambered nose/tail do not need to be detuned at all. The full camber I sometimes detunev, ever so slightly, close to contact points. 

[snowwjob1]

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like i am just going to ride and not over think it. It is easy to over think the first few runs on a new board early in the season.

[barryj]

Hey Snowjob,  I totally agree with Rob on this one......   and I ride in Tahoe on hero snow!   Well even here it can get scraped off to glare ice, which is what's starting to happen since we haven't had any new snow for 10? days.

It's cold enough at night for the Mtns.  to blow snow but they got to spread that out and then the masses scrape the rest off..............anyway,  my point is I used every mm of my 2/1 tuned Swoard Extremecarver edges this weekend at Squaw and Northstar...........so don't detune nothing and get out there and ride it like you stole it!

[Aracan]

I ride traditional camber and I never detune. No problems.

[jim_s]

Timely discussion - I've recently received an MK from Donek, and Sean had mentioned that the tip and tail would need to be detuned a bit. (he sent it with 1 deg base and 2 deg side)  Years back, I stopped detuning my SL board after a base grind and edge sharpening (also 1b/2s)  - I sometimes catch a few edges early-on, but seem to either adapt, or (more likely, I suspect), our lackluster mid-Atlantic conditions do a bit a detuning on their own. Anyway, I'd read that boards with decambered noses (such as the MK) shouldn't  be detuned, and I'm actually kind of fond of hooky tails, so I'm inclined to give it a go with the full monty, and see how it goes, and hopefully not eat it too hard. (That having been said, I fully trust Sean, and if he says it should be detuned, I probably ought to pay some attention to that. :o)

Any thoughts or admonitions on this? (sounds like this group tends toward the full monty approach...)

[Corey]

I leave mine sharp a bit outside the widest points.  No science, just a gut feel.  Why?  

1. On true ice, that part of the edge doesn't touch anyway.   

2. In snow that you can sink into, some part of that forward edge is cutting a trench.  I want it to cut better.  I suspect that's part of the reason that the modern noses (low rise) are less 'hooky' than old (abrupt) noses.  

3. Once you de-tune an edge, you need to remove a fair amount of material to get it sharp, so I left lots sharp and figured I could always go back and de-tune it later.  I've never felt the need. Disclaimer: I'm a carver.  I don't skid much.  YMMV.  

[Cuban Carving Gooding]

 I don't. Leave it all sharp.

 

[snowwjob1]

3 hours ago, Corey said:

3. Once you de-tune an edge, you need to remove a fair amount of material to get it sharp, so I left lots sharp and figured I could always go back and de-tune it later.  I've never felt the need. Disclaimer: I'm a carver.  I don't skid much.  YMMV.  

I agree on that, my past detuning was only with a very fine file or some wet dry 600 sand paper just enough to skid when needed. 

[RobertAlexander]

You mentioned "Hooky",  that is what you want it to be , hooky,  and learn to ride it. That is the best part of an ultra sharp board , is it grabs and initiates the turn fast and cuts instantly.   I have an MK from last year and love it, do not detune it, learn to ride it.

  IMO  the MK is the best out there, but it will work you very hard physically and mentally, but when you get in shape after all this work, it is all worth it.      For fast lay ups with the MK, you do not want to be thinking is it going  to hold,  there is no time to think,  you just have to trust that it will hold and go for it, there fore, No Detune!   

After a full season of only riding the MK,  I never got to a point with it, to say, come on board , lets get going,   it always gives more than you ask it to.   But the initial training with it was def a tough 2 weeks.   But any physical sport is like that.   r

[jim_s]

That's what I'm hoping for on the MK - I love a board that is good for both an aerobic and anaerobic workout! :-) You guys have me convinced - I'm gonna go with the full edge, and see if I can work it (without getting completely worked myself :-) I tend to get into a bit of a lull in my biking in the fall, but step things back up again in December, so that I'm in sufficient shape to ride my stairmaster SL board - I'm counting on the MK being much the same way!

[b0ardski]

it doesn't take long for the contact points to dull a bit on icy/manmade snow