Gilmour bias...

[jim_s]

On 2/3/2018 at 9:09 PM, Beckmann AG said:

And on the other other hand: If you have 'jazz hands' in rough terrain, your feet are probably too close together.

With much encouragement from @SunSurfer, I've managed to increase my stance width from 16" to 17" (took two tries to do it, first try at 17" two weekends ago felt too wide - was impacting my knees and hips, and associated range of motion, and I backed off to 16.5". I tried again this weekend, and found that with 1 deg inward cant on the rear boot (I know, inward cant is considered evil, but for whatever reason, 17" flat just didn't work with my hips, but 17" w/ 1deg inward rear cant, made it work - maybe its all in my head?) Anyway, at 17", my 'jazz hands' have seriously calmed down! I only found myself lifting my arms up when I'd hit the occasional patch of ice today, or when I got a bit aggressive on the carve, and got a larger than expected pop out of the turn. (That having been said, I felt a little like a gerbil, as my hands were sort of curled up in front of me, LoL - I don't quite know what to do w/ them, if I'm not waving them around... :-) Interestingly, even at 16.5", I was still flailing my arms around a fair bit, but at 17", they calmed down almost completely.

One thing I did find at the 17" stance that I need to think about and work on, is that I find myself riding my rear foot a lot more than I did at 16" or 16.5". It worked for me this weekend, and I really had to concentrate hard to keep the weight more evenly distributed between front and back, but the feeling of riding the rear foot was a little unsettling. (That having been said, the tail never washed out, and I did find myself getting more pop out of the turns, w/o really thinking about loading the tail up.)

Anyway, just wanted to share that. :-) If there are any intuitions or observations to be shared back, I'd be very interested in hearing them!

[Beckmann AG]

^ Part of the rear foot involvement may have to do with that foot being in a more effective place on the board. If you think of your stance in terms of a fore/aft limit scenario, it's really hard to bend, or maintain bend in the tail of the board if your feet are too far to the front. Similarly, it's also hard to hold on to a turn long enough to develop much load under the rear foot if most of the weight is biased forward.

Regarding the rear foot cant: If it works, don't worry too much about the geometry. The issue comes when a rider uses too much cant or lift to allow for a fashionably wide stance, disregarding how those geometric principles affect joint articulation and board input under load.

If it feels effective, stick with it until it causes discomfort, or you realize it's only different, and not better.

Also, binding configuration is somewhat iterative; in that as you become a better rider, you also become more aware of how a particular stance either limits or enhances movement options.

Fwiw, If you find it interesting that .500" of stance width calmed your nervous hands, you should know that your means of maintaining equilibrium is sensitive to thousandths of an inch of contour change. Granted, most don't see the need for tuning anything to that level of accuracy (other than base and side edge bevel?), but when you do, you get some very interesting results.

[John Gilmour]

 OK I don't know why but I'd thought I just post something about stance width. And I'm going to dictate this because I'm just damn lazy. The other day I got on my Original Madd 170 and for some reason it wasn't working for me. I had removed the bindings and, much like so many of us, found myself lost trying to find the proper stance.

I plopped down the bindings (F2 race titaniums) in the holes which  always gave me good results before but I was riding like crap.

 

It took me a couple of adjustments that went apparently nowhere towards improving my ability .

 

 Then I remembered that this particular board was the very first batch of the original 170s.  And I had changed the hole  pattern on the next batch of original 170s (like 95% of the 170s original speckled base ones)   because the first three Madd  170s  didn't have the insert pack locations specified. 

 

So what to do? No tape measure, on a hill, no flat surfaces, not way to accurately find the peak sidecut. I wasn't about to waste a perfect groomer day. 

So I started by taking my skipass lanyard and measuring the distance from my heel to the center of the hinge point of my knee ( that starts you off with an equilateral triangle) k. That would be my starting point. I also measured how high my heel was from the base of the board. 

 

I put knots in my lanyard to note these lengths and transfer them to the board.

 

I took a run with the knee to heel distance as my stance and started widening from there. Of course there was joint interference, which you can see immediately affects my ability to get low. 

You start with fairly large increments . Say 1/2 inch per binding and go bigger and smaller and feel the difference . Note where washout occurs in the turn, if knees are blocked etc. each increment TEST  both wider and narrower to confirm your directional choice of your stance. Bring a pencil to mark. 

So after moving back and forth by 1/2 " increments you change the increment. But here is where many make a mistake..., most decide now to use 1/4" increments  (wrong) instead use  different increment that doesn't divide cleanly. Like 1/3 of an inch. You are eyeballing this, but the idea is you keep using smaller increments as you hone in on your stance but no increment is divisible cleanly by the previous increment chosen and each smaller increment is slightly more than 1/2 of the original increment ...this will land you on different spots of the board every time so no mounting is needlessly repeated . It also makes sure you didn't overshoot because of increment size. I find this is the fastest way to find the magic spots. Same thing goes with increments and Gilmour Bias and if you only have holes with fixed increments you can use the bomber eyelets , or for Catek Olympic And World Cup series use a bit of duct tape wind it around  on the bail but not too much or it's release issue.

 

The increments get smaller and  smaller THEN You start to do each binding independently as the increments get under 1/4 inch. ( it's easier anyhow as it is just 1/2 the amount of screws. Ride the same run ( preferably a fairly difficult run for you in terms of steepness but not such a hard run that you get tired -or  you are just measuring your binding optimized for fatigue as opposed to optimal performance) .

You will have to move your bindings 6-10 times (more if you doubt yourself and need to confirm) you could end up with 15 times if you are forgetful . But you'll nail it pretty exactly. Don't use any powder snow for this, it should be good clean groom or smooth chalk partly cloudy day so the snow conditions don't vary much as you do this.

If , if you remember anything about this just remember not to use increments that are evenly divisible and more than half the size of the previous increment ... or you'll never get closer to accuracy than the increment itself. By the end of it your increment should be very small ( so small that you can't believe (i.e. Feel stupid) you are even bothering to do it)  but you'll be able to feel the difference if you push it in turns. When you can't feel a drop in performance when you change the increment in the wrong direction ....then the increment has become insignificant and you are (hopefully ) done. But just to be sure recheck by the same previous larger increment size the next time you go out both larger and smaller) .

Well, so, how did it work out for me? 

Before I was washing out all over, riding slightly worse than in softboots, not trusting the board. I was riding with Paul Miller at Beaver Creek and kinda felt ashamed that I was riding so shitty. I even started to wonder, "are hardboots still worth it? "

 

After I nailed my stance, I was blitzing the hill, ski patrollers were complimenting me on my turns, people spinning around on the lifts and cheering, I felt the red sun was gone and I had my superpowers back.

 

I ripped some of the best arcs of my life, and cut trenches which were unfillable for hours later. Of course some lady called in to the yellow jackets to complain about a mono skier destroying the slopes. So I took that as a cue to leave Beaver Creek and ride some pow in Japan. So much for my  $38 Forever 21 Men's hologram shiny jacket  and white pants and bright reflective orange blue red and bitching colored Troy Lee Helmet .... I'll have to give that "easy to  identify outfit " up ...

Sooo...

  Here you go ...dumb ass yellow jackets, back to full skier Camo. That's right , lame ass  poser skier outfit  ALL Arc'teryx  black jacket black arc'teryx   bibs, and black Troy lee helmet with the visor removed  I'm unidentifiable and invisible now bitches...

yeah Im Back In Black! 

Whiny paranoid women can calls in to ski patrol:, "There some guy going fast please stop him he is turning all over the place," (in actuality the call will never go to yellow jackets because ski patrol won't want to sound stupid) 

Yellow Jacket: We will do our best Mam, what was he wearing? 

Whiny Paranoid 4o something woman: I can describe him exactly, he was wearing black with a black helmet please find him. 

Yellow Jacket: was there anything else identifiable about him? 

Whiny overweight out of shape boring 50 something paranoid woman empowered needlessly by cellphone on chairlift: No, but he was on a snowboard.

yellow Jacket : "Well if we see him (rolls eyes) we will talk to him"  ( immediately goes back to social media and online dating/dumping sites) . Plans to ignore her future cell phone number - "another loon" he thinks to himself, " dumb lady thinks I should chase down everyone  wearing black going moderately fast, like she owns me." 

 

Back in black always worked for me and for Ray of Virus. Sucks for photos though. And it sucks for temperature regulation. 

So get your stance and boots dialed and get ready to be Back in Black.

 

The JAPOW was ok, but I should have just stayed at the Beave. I paid $770 for my ticket to Japan , got bumped  AND UPGRADED!!! ....paid a $800 AMEX gift card by the airlines and got to change my return flight for free to included a full beach day in Hawaii , , got $20 a day lift tickets using my Mountain Collective pass, and had about five bottomless pow turns and the rest were about the same as a decent powder day in Colorado. Gained 7lbs all in Sushi ? .. Visited the Gentemstick Factory store and cafe and gallery ... and the grooming in Niseko was so awful I didn't get a single satisfactory carve the entire three weeks... no superpowers, just a mere skidding mortal. I had the best powder guide Paul  Price of Utah Powder Tours ...took me everywhere in the side country in  gorgeous Japanese tree POWDER riding . It rained twice, I saw Neil Dutta while I was there ...total coincidence at the gondola both of us suffered the lack of true JAPOW. Stayed at Paul Prices killer pad with the most amazing mountain view a five min walk to the main gondola.

Why is that Japan trip stuff significant in this post? Because we have all seen Japow and wanted to ride it..but dialed in on cord....well ...for every turn not in deep pow, I was longing to get back on my perefectly dialed in Madd and blitz some colorado cord. Thats how much fun a perfectly dialed in stance is. That's why it is worth it. Because if you want to ever feel superhuman...you need to take the time mind numbing effort to get your stance and boots right. 

 

Seriously, a dialed in stance on groom and sleeping in my car  beats a Free luxury  flight to JAPOW with twenty dollar lift tickets in a luxury condo near the gondola. But it had been January in chest deep snow,  likely, JAPOW  would have won.  I saw a pile of felllow freaks in Japan who ride swallowtails with high angles carving stances..and they are the legends of the hill there. Being on a Hovercraft ( Hovercrafts are  VERY common there, and very few non directional boards there)  instead of my Rossignol Judge swallowtail lost me some hardcore swallowtail devotee locals  cred... ODD SIGHT...tons of young Japanese chicks carve on swallowtails too...and they were cute enough even not on swallowtails to be worth the trip. 

 

Black in Black,

back to being superhuman .....

 

 

Kid : That "S" that repeats over and over ,   what's it stand for ?

Me with dialed in stance: The one I carved into the slope, that stands for Sliced Slope, it's like a winding river , thicker slightly then thinner, reminds me of something my ....(pause). ...fellow carver used to say. It's like car keys easy to lose (your line), but then you find it again and again. It's what I like best about being on planet Earth.

(Turns and Rockets off into the distance).

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 21, 2018 by John Gilmour

[John Gilmour]

On 2/13/2018 at 8:46 PM, carvedog said:

Not even a mention of Sun Valley?  

It's been on my list to go for over 20 years. I don't know anyone there with a pad for crashing but now with the tesla I sleep in the heated car anyhow. If it becomes part of the epic pass or ikon pass I'll hit it. Or if anyone has free lift coupons .during good cord

Edited March 21, 2018 by John Gilmour

[Rob Stevens]

3 hours ago, John Gilmour said:

 OK I don't know why but I'd thought I just post something about stance width. And I'm going to dictate this because I'm just damn lazy. The other day I got on my Original Madd 170 and for some reason it wasn't working for me. I had removed the bindings and, much like so many of us, found myself lost trying to find the proper stance.

I plopped down the bindings (F2 race titaniums) in the holes which  always gave me good results before but I was riding like crap.

 

It took me a couple of adjustments that went apparently nowhere towards improving my ability .

 

 Then I remembered that this particular board was the very first batch of the original 170s.  And I had changed the hole  pattern on the next batch of original 170s (like 95% of the 170s original speckled base ones)   because the first three Madd  170s  didn't have the insert pack locations specified. 

 

So what to do? No tape measure, on a hill, no flat surfaces, not way to accurately find the peak sidecut. I wasn't about to waste a perfect groomer day. 

So I started by taking my skipass lanyard and measuring the distance from my heel to the center of the hinge point of my knee ( that starts you off with an equilateral triangle) k. That would be my starting point. I also measured how high my heel was from the base of the board. 

 

I put knots in my lanyard to note these lengths and transfer them to the board.

 

I took a run with the knee to heel distance as my stance and started widening from there. Of course there was joint interference, which you can see immediately affects my ability to get low. 

You start with fairly large increments . Say 1/2 inch per binding and go bigger and smaller and feel the difference . Note where washout occurs in the turn, if knees are blocked etc. each increment TEST  both wider and narrower to confirm your directional choice of your stance. Bring a pencil to mark. 

So after moving back and forth by 1/2 " increments you change the increment. But here is where many make a mistake..., most decide now to use 1/4" increments  (wrong) instead use  different increment that doesn't divide cleanly. Like 1/3 of an inch. You are eyeballing this, but the idea is you keep using smaller increments as you hone in on your stance but no increment is divisible cleanly by the previous increment chosen and each smaller increment is slightly more than 1/2 of the original increment ...this will land you on different spots of the board every time so no mounting is needlessly repeated . It also makes sure you didn't overshoot because of increment size. I find this is the fastest way to find the magic spots. Same thing goes with increments and Gilmour Bias and if you only have holes with fixed increments you can use the bomber eyelets , or for Catek Olympic And World Cup series use a bit of duct tape wind it around  on the bail but not too much or it's release issue.

 

The increments get smaller and  smaller THEN You start to do each binding independently as the increments get under 1/4 inch. ( it's easier anyhow as it is just 1/2 the amount of screws. Ride the same run ( preferably a fairly difficult run for you in terms of steepness but not such a hard run that you get tired -or  you are just measuring your binding optimized for fatigue as opposed to optimal performance) .

You will have to move your bindings 6-10 times (more if you doubt yourself and need to confirm) you could end up with 15 times if you are forgetful . But you'll nail it pretty exactly. Don't use any powder snow for this, it should be good clean groom or smooth chalk partly cloudy day so the snow conditions don't vary much as you do this.

If , if you remember anything about this just remember not to use increments that are evenly divisible and more than half the size of the previous increment ... or you'll never get closer to accuracy than the increment itself. By the end of it your increment should be very small ( so small that you can't believe (i.e. Feel stupid) you are even bothering to do it)  but you'll be able to feel the difference if you push it in turns. When you can't feel a drop in performance when you change the increment in the wrong direction ....then the increment has become insignificant and you are (hopefully ) done. But just to be sure recheck by the same previous larger increment size the next time you go out both larger and smaller) .

Well, so, how did it work out for me? 

Before I was washing out all over, riding slightly worse than in softboots, not trusting the board. I was riding with Paul Miller at Beaver Creek and kinda felt ashamed that I was riding so shitty. I even started to wonder, "are hardboots still worth it? "

 

After I nailed my stance, I was blitzing the hill, ski patrollers were complimenting me on my turns, people spinning around on the lifts and cheering, I felt the red sun was gone and I had my superpowers back.

 

I ripped some of the best arcs of my life, and cut trenches which were unfillable for hours later. Of course some lady called in to the yellow jackets to complain about a mono skier destroying the slopes. So I took that as a cue to leave Beaver Creek and ride some pow in Japan. So much for my  $38 Forever 21 Men's hologram shiny jacket  and white pants and bright reflective orange blue red and bitching colored Troy Lee Helmet .... I'll have to give that "easy to  identify outfit " up ...

Sooo...

  Here you go ...dumb ass yellow jackets, back to full skier Camo. That's right , lame ass  poser skier outfit  ALL Arc'teryx  black jacket black arc'teryx   bibs, and black Troy lee helmet with the visor removed  I'm unidentifiable and invisible now bitches...

yeah Im Back In Black! 

Whiny paranoid women can calls in to ski patrol:, "There some guy going fast please stop him he is turning all over the place," (in actuality the call will never go to yellow jackets because ski patrol won't want to sound stupid) 

Yellow Jacket: We will do our best Mam, what was he wearing? 

Whiny Paranoid 4o something woman: I can describe him exactly, he was wearing black with a black helmet please find him. 

Yellow Jacket: was there anything else identifiable about him? 

Whiny overweight out of shape boring 50 something paranoid woman empowered needlessly by cellphone on chairlift: No, but he was on a snowboard.

yellow Jacket : "Well if we see him (rolls eyes) we will talk to him"  ( immediately goes back to social media and online dating/dumping sites) . Plans to ignore her future cell phone number - "another loon" he thinks to himself, " dumb lady thinks I should chase down everyone  wearing black going moderately fast, like she owns me." 

 

Back in black always worked for me and for Ray of Virus. Sucks for photos though. And it sucks for temperature regulation. 

So get your stance and boots dialed and get ready to be Back in Black.

 

The JAPOW was ok, but I should have just stayed at the Beave. I paid $770 for my ticket to Japan , got bumped  AND UPGRADED!!! ....paid a $800 AMEX gift card by the airlines and got to change my return flight for free to included a full beach day in Hawaii , , got $20 a day lift tickets using my Mountain Collective pass, and had about five bottomless pow turns and the rest were about the same as a decent powder day in Colorado. Gained 7lbs all in Sushi ? .. Visited the Gentemstick Factory store and cafe and gallery ... and the grooming in Niseko was so awful I didn't get a single satisfactory carve the entire three weeks... no superpowers, just a mere skidding mortal. I had the best powder guide Paul  Price of Utah Powder Tours ...took me everywhere in the side country in  gorgeous Japanese tree POWDER riding . It rained twice, I saw Neil Dutta while I was there ...total coincidence at the gondola both of us suffered the lack of true JAPOW. Stayed at Paul Prices killer pad with the most amazing mountain view a five min walk to the main gondola.

Why is that Japan trip stuff significant in this post? Because we have all seen Japow and wanted to ride it..but dialed in on cord....well ...for every turn not in deep pow, I was longing to get back on my perefectly dialed in Madd and blitz some colorado cord. Thats how much fun a perfectly dialed in stance is. That's why it is worth it. Because if you want to ever feel superhuman...you need to take the time mind numbing effort to get your stance and boots right. 

 

Seriously, a dialed in stance on groom and sleeping in my car  beats a Free luxury  flight to JAPOW with twenty dollar lift tickets in a luxury condo near the gondola. But it had been January in chest deep snow,  likely, JAPOW  would have won.  I saw a pile of felllow freaks in Japan who ride swallowtails with high angles carving stances..and they are the legends of the hill there. Being on a Hovercraft ( Hovercrafts are  VERY common there, and very few non directional boards there)  instead of my Rossignol Judge swallowtail lost me some hardcore swallowtail devotee locals  cred... ODD SIGHT...tons of young Japanese chicks carve on swallowtails too...and they were cute enough even not on swallowtails to be worth the trip. 

 

Black in Black,

back to being superman .....

 

 

Kid : That "S" that repeats over and over ,   what's it stand for ?

Me with dialed in stance: The one I carved into the slope, that stands for Sliced Slope, it's like a winding river , thicker slightly then thinner, reminds me of something my ....(pause). ...fellow carver used to say. It's like car keys easy to lose (your line), but then you find it again and again. It's what I like best about being on planet Earth.

(Turns and Rockets off into the distance).

 

 

 

 

 

Or just eyeball it. 

[lowrider]

I agree Rob but we all still enjoy a good story and his are usually pretty good !

Edited March 21, 2018 by lowrider

[Randy Kight]

On 2/3/2018 at 9:57 PM, Beckmann AG said:

Your location puts you closer to Broadway than the Islands, so....Jazz hands.

 

If you think of your platform (boot ramp plus binding cant/lift) exclusive of 'you', a load placed on top of the front binding would trend toward the toe side. That same load placed on the rear binding would trend forward toward the tip, and also toward the toe side.

If you think of the boot cuffs as levers, the mechanical advantage will be biased to the toeside on the front binding, and toward the heel edge and forward on the rear binding.

The point being, if you accept that your primary inputs to the board are tilt, and  how you direct pressure with the soles of your feet, well, you're all over the map just standing there.

So, once underway, you may not be able to 'stand' where you need to stand in order to get the outcome you want. At least in terms of turn shape, and therefore speed control.

And this is where a fully adjustable binding, regardless of rigidity, is a decided asset.

 

This!  I rode exactly like Jim...burned into me from many years on an old burton m6 asym and vari-plates with fixed 45/35 angles with 6-7 degrees inward cant.  Front quad was always burning.  Turn initiation was quick...heel sometimes washed out if I didn't force my weight back.  Actually, this setup for me was worse once I started riding same setup on symmetrical boards.  Fast forward...slight toe lift up front, flat rear, narrowed my stance down a bit, and I've never been more comfortable and dynamic during my turns...eye opening for me to say the least.    

[scottishsurfer]

On 3/20/2018 at 8:53 PM, John Gilmour said:

yeah Im Back In Black! 

Sounds similar to my method i have a red/black bonfire jacket blue picture sallys, from a distance i look identical to my local mountains ski patrol/rescue/instructors so i just look like i'm trying to get somewhere important very fast. Really handy for those busy days on the mountain :)

[Eric Brammer aka PSR]

JG, all that Trig, and you don't Know how Wide your hand is?? And I always assumed that those women you date were 'loose' ( this may get an edit, so..) ! Lol 

[barryj]

On 4/10/2018 at 6:19 AM, workshop7 said:

Kessler Alpine 168

Hey WS7,  Another Beautiful K168!         We should have a Kessler convention, like Virus does if there's ever another ATC/TTC!!                                                                   

Curious what angles you running on your K168?   They look parallel,  like 65/65??    .....and  your stance width?   Looks like 20.5 to me.

..and no  ~bias,  correct?  

[workshop7]

36 minutes ago, barryj said:

Curious what angles you running on your K168?   They look parallel,  like 65/65??    .....and  your stance width?   Looks like 20.5 to me.

..and no  ~bias,  correct?  

58 front

55 rear

These are the shallowest angles I’ve ridden since the PJ days.

20.25” width

I do my best to put the heels and toes right on the edges.  I find that hard to do with mondo 28 boots.  For me, the front heel and rear toe are always too close even though I move the front boot all the way forward on the binding, as well the rear boot all the way back.  It’s close but I’d still like to move them a bit more.

[barryj]

49 minutes ago, workshop7 said:

I do my best to put the heels and toes right on the edges.  I find that hard to do with mondo 28 boots.

Yeah........ I'm mondo 28 also ...but my problem is with  ~bias my rear foot is biased forwards enough that I gotta go 60 degrees or higher to not have boot out.

Example:  having to run 65/60 on my 23 waist Coiler 177 EC SS  and I'm right to the edge.

[workshop7]

Wow!  It must be the softer snow you ride in.  I can get away with 62 on the front foot and 59 with m28 deeluxe boots on an 18cm wide board.  I can get the board to  more than 80* of angulation which is all I need.  I’m never looking to do EC turns or anything like that.

[workshop7]

I posted this last year.  An example of what I look for in a setup.

[barryj]

45 minutes ago, workshop7 said:

It must be the softer snow you ride in

Uh??  Not sure what snow has to do with  setting binding angles up for no boot out ??   but Yes, I guess you can get away with around 2mm of boot out in Hero Snow without much dire effect.

My steeper angles are directly caused by using G-bias, which I am a fan of ( yes I've tried no bias and even reversed bias to no avail) but this is the one most obvious side-effect I see in using G-bias.  My rear binding is "biased" forward...which creates the necessity for steeper angles to avoid boot out.

I'll post some photos for clarity .......   

[barryj]

Don't want to hijack the thread but here's 65/60 on a 23 waist Coiler 177 EC SS

..and you can see that  ~bias in the rear binding pushes you far forward that you gotta  compensate with steeper angles..... 

[RyanN]

Barry,

What is that elastic piece on your rear toe? I assume it's there to keep the toe up.

[barryj]

32 minutes ago, RyanN said:

elastic piece on your rear toe?

Yeah..... the wavy washers in the toe bail are not holding the toe bail up....so I made my own  bungee from an old Mtn. bike inner tube..... I cut two strips from the tube , so then you have two inner tube bands, then I connected them together by feeding one through the other, then I looped if through the toe bail and then pulled the remaining free loop of inner tube back over the toe bail and around the toe block. 

 Easily lasts 5-6 days before the loop on the toe bail wears through..... then I just loop another piece of inner tube band I carry on the existing toe block  loop and I'm back in business.    

[John Gilmour]

On 3/22/2018 at 7:12 PM, Eric Brammer aka PSR said:

JG, all that Trig, and you don't Know how Wide your hand is?? And I always assumed that those women you date were 'loose' ( this may get an edit, so..) ! Lol 

 

Hmmm. probably a good idea to know your own hands individual sizes of each width so you could use your hands for measurement in a pinch. Never measured my hands, I'd probably forget the increments . Taking a Xerox and then measuring would be easy. . 

 

It would be so easy to put increments on all leashes and cable locks  or just mark it in between the board holes. I do sometime like to redo a board completely by feel, just to see if things have ganged over the years,,, I do tend to go wider as I throw myself into a turn more now.

 

just bought the bakoda multi tool from Bola... that has a auto open bottle opener, multibits and wrench tape measure and a hidden feature. I'm not a 4-20 guy but the CBD roll on stuff does work for aches and pains.

 

"all the women I date" ..... well the days of DJ'ing all women's colleges and living in Boston are done. Just a bunch of divorced unhappy dyejob fake boobs  LuLuLemon wine bellies here in SoCal ... I feel like a monk here. Maybe I need to be Steve Olson's wing man, I'm moving again  anyhow, my place just sold in 2 days for $2M so someone else is going to get a killer pad. 

Edited April 14, 2018 by John Gilmour

[John Gilmour]

On 4/11/2018 at 3:59 PM, workshop7 said:

I posted this last year.  An example of what I look for in a setup.

I would have more toe overhang on the rear toe on that set up. And not as much but some heel overhang on the front, then your angles get to go down a bit too.

 

the only time I run inboundis when I can't get a narrower board. If you really rail at 90 degrees and really no one does, even me in softboots intentionally over dumping  then your need no overhang.  I think about 75 degree is the true max and even then with trench you have clearance. Glare ice is the only time you might want to reduce that, but in glare ice I don't think you go beyond 45-60 degrees of tilt.

Edited April 14, 2018 by John Gilmour

[barryj]

John.  as you know with running bias it pushes the rear binding forward which necessitates higher angles on the rear foot than the front.

On my Kessler 168 I'm at 65/68 ....and if I moved the front binding to the edge I'd be something like 55/68  !!

That just seems opposite of the norm of a somewhat higher angle in the front than the back ??    or..... is the norm old school thinking?

Edited April 18, 2018 by barryj

[Colozeus]

my .02. Eliminating gilmour bias greatly improved my comfort and carving. I don't think it works for my body type. (short and stocky) ymmv.

[barryj]

I tried eliminating G bias and it sucked!   Even tried reverse bias,  that sucked worse!   

I'm a Mutant - tall and stocky!

[Colozeus]

I might experiment with it again. But over this past season, i systematically tweaked my setup until i felt comfortable on the board. (i have a post about this somewhere in another thread) I always felt like my legs were fighting something on the board. Over the course of a few runs i changed 1 thing at a time until i hit the jackpot. 1. Eliminated bias - Helped quite a bit with the rear leg. 2. went from 3 to 6 toe lift, helped even more, 3. shortened my stance from around 19.5 to 18". One thing i noticed immediately after eliminating bias and centering my boots was that i could carve heel sides with a more locked in feeling and without fighting the board. Again, i think it's just do to my own biomechanics. It's what worked for me.

[barryj]

I agree it's a combination of biomechanics ....and board design!