Intec: How much front bail slop is ok?

[ExcelsiorTheFathead]

I've been doing my first carpet carving of the season, leaning into the sofa like a total badass. The setup is feeling pretty good, but I'm starting to wonder about the amount of slop I have in the front bails. I'm using FinTecs in Catec OS2s with UPZ RC10 boots. Unlike TD3s and F2s that can micro-adjust the bails, the Cateks adjust in fixed increments.

On one setting the toe bails are pretty darn tight when the heels lock in. On the next bigger increment there is a relatively large amount of slop. The toe piece can lift off the toe block slightly and I can see the bail move around on the ledge of the toe piece. While there is clear up/down movement of the front of the boot, the slop doesn't really allow for much twisting movement on the axis of the heel pins.

I rode much of last season in the sloppy position, but now wonder if I should move to the "tight" position. I figure that a little slop might be good. As long as there is no chance of a premature release, is there any danger to slop? I'm thinking about wrapping some tape around the toe bails.

[Neil Gendzwill]

You want it tight.

[Allee]

I have some side to side movement in my F2's. But they have the wind-down that controls the bail height, so as long as the bail is tight on top of the toe ledge, a little side to side doesn't worry me.

If the Cateks aren't that adjustable, a little electrical tape might be a good idea. Also, I thought I remembered a set of my TD1's coming with a little plastic bumper on the toe bail, that did a good job of taking up slop - maybe you could find a small plastic rod and make something similar?

[theboarderdude]

For my SI's(TD3 sw si), I put the toe of my boot into the front bail, then tilt the heel in. The pins should fit perfectly when you do this. If they do not, then you need to readjust your bindings.

I have tiny bit of side slop, but it's minute.

[digger jr]

Hi Art,

I have put a shim on top of the toe pad ( between boot and binding) out of plastic or hard rubber on my Cateks.

There's quite a difference between adjustment holes. I would think if you can get it in,in the tighter setting it would be to loose in the looser one and put undo wear/ stress on the pins. I did this originally because Gloria couldn't get into her rear binding easily, but the next setting was pretty sloppy, so the shim hit the sweet spot. Hope you are doing well.

Ron

[monodude]

I've been doing my first carpet carving of the season, leaning into the sofa like a total badass. The setup is feeling pretty good, but I'm starting to wonder about the amount of slop I have in the front bails. I'm using FinTecs in Catec OS2s with UPZ RC10 boots. Unlike TD3s and F2s that can micro-adjust the bails, the Cateks adjust in fixed increments.

On one setting the toe bails are pretty darn tight when the heels lock in. On the next bigger increment there is a relatively large amount of slop. The toe piece can lift off the toe block slightly and I can see the bail move around on the ledge of the toe piece. While there is clear up/down movement of the front of the boot, the slop doesn't really allow for much twisting movement on the axis of the heel pins.

I rode much of last season in the sloppy position, but now wonder if I should move to the "tight" position. I figure that a little slop might be good. As long as there is no chance of a premature release, is there any danger to slop? I'm thinking about wrapping some tape around the toe bails.

On my regular Cateks I used Gorilla Duct tape, (on the heel bail), to make-up the slop on my right foot. Also, Boots can be slightly different length and out wear some over the years. If you can still step in with it on the tight side that would be best. Everything shrinks when it gets cold, so it will be a better fit on the hill.

Don

Feed the Addiction...

[queequeg]

This can be tricky to get right. You don't want it loose at all - it needs to be snug, but just snug enough to prevent slop in the interface. I'm my experience if you set it too tight you're putting yourself at risk of poor heel engagement and subsequent pre-release.

I had mine a bit too tight in the past and suffered an unexpected release on the rear foot as a consequence. If you set it too tight, the slightest amount of ice buildup on your boots can cause the intec mechanism to engage partially or improperly. Obviously you want to check both sides of your heel every time you get off the lift and I've certainly learned my lesson insofar as that goes ...

To my mind: with a cold/dry boot you should be able to step in with zero effort, and zero slop. I used to do mine tight, but snug seems safer to me. The tape/shim idea seems like a good one.

[michael.a]

Agree with quee (wanted that to rhyme), you want it snug but not tight as in the cold everything contracts. My reference criterion are boot centered over the binding, pins smoothly engaging the binding upon entry (no bind in the boot or binding distortion just prior to click), with the pins snugly pressed against the outside of the receiver holes (by outside I mean towards the binding rear).

I have a pair of F2s where the front bail height can be adjusted and it always comes loose after a couple days of riding, it feels nice as you get some additional lateral movement but I'm terrified of accidental release.

[dingbat]

Mine are loose as all get out.

[John E]

I have both TD3s & X-Bone intecs. I used to adjust them pretty tight but then had several instances of the heel pins disengaging. Fortunately this never happened at speed. The right thing is to do a visual check every time you step in but often the pins are hard to see (foggy goggles, snow build up) or the crew is leaving you behind. I'd rather have a little bit of wiggle than have them disengage at speed.   

[Neil Gendzwill]

They should be pretty darn snug when you are adjusting them in the house.  Check them after a run or two, if it's cold they may get quite sloppy.

[ExcelsiorTheFathead]

I used to adjust them pretty tight but then had several instances of the heel pins disengaging.

Yeah, having some wiggle room really makes it easier to get in when you have ice on your heels.  But as a matter of terminology I think that there is no such thing as the heel pins disengaging.  There is only "never really being engaged in the first place."  If I don't hear or feel the right kind of "click" when I step in, I'll often do it again until it sounds right, then I jump around and try to pull my foot out before I get any speed up.  In any case, the ice problems I have with Intec are far less of a hassle when compared to SnowPro F.A.S.T. step-ins.