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Medium lenght carving boards


newcarver

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Seems like there aren't a lot of people riding boards in a medium length. Was wondering why? Seems that people are either riding a SL sub 164 or a GS type lengths in the plus 175 range. About the only medium length boards are more all mountain type hardboot boards. Is there a place for the medium board with the new tech going on? Seems like they would make a nice compomise between the 2 standards. I know there are some out there but you don't hardly ever see any for sale. Is this because they are so good that no one will part with them? Would like to get something between the 160 and 178 that I have now. Was thinking a Donek FCM in 167 or 171 would be a good fit.

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Funny, I feel like most rider's main board is 165 to 175 (maybe 177).

There are also the people on BOL, and then there are the carvers I meet on the hill that are not on BOL. The ones not on BOL are almost always on a sub 175 board.

I will second that. As to why there aren't many boards in that length, I believe that having a board in that length isn't snappy/short enough for those of slalom preference, and they can't run and make big turns for those of us of the big board persuasion. I kno I wouldn't want anything in that inbetween range for those exact reasons.

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I think sidecut radius/shape/whatever is more important that board length. My 167 with a 10.5m radius is certainly my slalom board.

My Volkl 178 (that's going to a new home today!) had a 12.something m radius, it was certainly a 'medium' board in comparison to my 182 Coiler with a 14/15m radius. Throw in a Coiler Stubby and the whole rating system goes to crap.

My experience agrees with Buell too; the majority of adult males I've seen at the 6 different 'sessions' are on a 170-something board. I hated my 182 in chopped up powder at NES, switching to the 167 made it fun again!

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175 Virus Chimera twin tip skwal is my go to stick in the quiver. That board flat out slays everything.

:AR15firin

The 165 is a close second, a little more versatile in trees and its a board I would rather get beat up when riding off piste.

...a 171 and a 203 lined up for SES!!!

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It's not how long it is, it's what you do with it:)

As far as daily drivers 165-167-173-178 for all mt.

162-173-185 alpine. Don't ride any of the 157-160s any more in either style. sold the 168 "quiver killer" cause I like having different tools for different jobs. That said the next so called quiver killer will be +/- 175 x 23, right in between all the rest.

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I think sidecut radius/shape/whatever is more important that board length. My 167 with a 10.5m radius is certainly my slalom board.

My Volkl 178 (that's going to a new home today!) had a 12.something m radius, it was certainly a 'medium' board in comparison to my 182 Coiler with a 14/15m radius. Throw in a Coiler Stubby and the whole rating system goes to crap.

My experience agrees with Buell too; the majority of adult males I've seen at the 6 different 'sessions' are on a 170-something board. I hated my 182 in chopped up powder at NES, switching to the 167 made it fun again!

Funny, I find the rocket ships to be a million times more fun in chop. Scary, but when you get up to speed it's a smoother ride. I don't want to admit it, but it might be like the trick of driving really fast over washboard road.

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Funny, I find the rocket ships to be a million times more fun in chop. Scary, but when you get up to speed it's a smoother ride. I don't want to admit it, but it might be like the trick of driving really fast over washboard road.

That might be true, until you need to turn or control your speed.

Same problem with driving fast on the washboard in the truck. Though, in the truck it is a lot easier to take your foot off the gas than it is on a ski slope pointing downhill.

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in spring chop I was a fan of very stiff GS boards, KC has one of my favorite for those conditions. he's right and there's really no issue with control at speed with a those boards as long as there's a competent driver. it does take some good legs which I no longer have, don't ride nearly as much and I'm more of a fatty these days. but for him who ride's a lot and is in good shape he's quite right. you have to be up to speed for it to work. I think the length and stiffness in the nose is the key, gives some relief from what otherwise would be transmitted to your ankles and knees on shorter stuff as well as the added displacement or surface area likely is helpful in this case also.

if the colder crud like chopped pow is not too hard it works in that as well but depending on how hardened it is it can go all to hell and you become a missile. knowing where KC lives I'm guessing he sees lots of wet slop. GS boards kill it in that IMO.

as of right now I have no such board but Bruce is changing that some time next week.

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in spring chop I was a fan of very stiff GS boards, KC has one of my favorite for those conditions. he's right and there's really no issue with control at speed with a those boards as long as there's a competent driver. it does take some good legs which I no longer have, don't ride nearly as much and I'm more of a fatty these days. but for him who ride's a lot and is in good shape he's quite right. you have to be up to speed for it to work. I think the length and stiffness in the nose is the key, gives some relief from what otherwise would be transmitted to your ankles and knees on shorter stuff as well as the added displacement or surface area likely is helpful in this case also.

if the colder crud like chopped pow is not too hard it works in that as well but depending on how hardened it is it can go all to hell and you become a missile. knowing where KC lives I'm guessing he sees lots of wet slop. GS boards kill it in that IMO.

as of right now I have no such board but Bruce is changing that some time next week.

And rockered noses kick ass!

:D

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