Soft Bindings For Freecarving

[bobdea]

I do want to speak to Bobs comment. Physiologically speaking, it is very difficult (I won't say impossible, but I have never seen it go down) to heelside EC with flat, FR angles. If you want to lay turns on both sides, it's probably not going to happen unless you turn the angles up.

I have never seen it either. well, on a heel side anyway. single toe sides yeah, but, that sort of like a flat land trick. at some point you run into gear limitations no matter what you do with your gear. EC type turns are probably one for softboot. particularly the heel hoops on bindings hitting, needing the type of width to overcome the drag issue requires a board so wide it's hard to leverage which in turn makes it hard to balance on edge.

if you've ever seen someone ride a board too wide for them you know what I mean. underhang is the pits in softboots on groomed snow.

EC is not the only way to carve though, I've put down both hands on a heelside riding 20 degree angles as well as had my ass skim before heel drag became a issue.

I think that's why drag is lees of a issue with softies, you don't tilt them as high as you do when riding plates.

[bobdea]

How about a new arguement then (and the one I was trying to do in the first place) and that is if you talk with golf pros (sorry using a different stage to get across the same message) that teach lessons (and the ones who really teach, and work with the student) and that is people have different swings. If you push a particular swing on an individual it doesn't work on you are doing damage. I spent a year and a half out of the game for trying to do it "the prefered way". Let me demonstrate through another parody. I swam breaststroke at Regionals in highschool, and while it had been a fad and later dismissed, I used a kick called a "whip" kick instead of the traditional and still used kick today. Why? According to modern wisdom I should have been slower, but in practice and every time trial I did I always swam faster that way rather than the "agreed upon" way. My way works (for me) and it drives some people on here crazy because I'm not conforming to their way. I think Fin's quote now may be a bit out dated. Perhaps the only way to be a conformist and a snowboarder is to carve in softboots.

now you're using a dave espi argument, you're implying that it's just a matter of style this is not true. more what you're suggesting is driving with a putter. yes, you CAN do it, does not mean it's smart. in regard to high angles, if you need a 3rd strap you probably have the wrong board or boot OR if your angles are really high because you like it you ought think about hardboots. all of you can insist that's wrong but you have no evidence that's contrary to what I'm saying other than your own personal accounts that are based on 1 or more of the following, dated info, resistance to change, a lack of experience with proper equipment (certainly the case with you and espi) and a flawed concept that really high angles are somehow an advantage on gear that's specifically built to provide leverage toe to heel while providing lots of play on the other axis so your solution is a third strap that prevents the flex that's specifically built into softboot gear for a reason and emulating a hard boot in the worst possible way.

[photodad2001]

now you're using a dave espi argument, you're implying that it's just a matter of style this is not true. more what you're suggesting is driving with a putter. yes, you CAN do it, does not mean it's smart. in regard to high angles, if you need a 3rd strap you probably have the wrong board or boot OR if your angles are really high because you like it you ought think about hardboots. all of you can insist that's wrong but you have no evidence that's contrary to what I'm saying other than your own personal accounts that are based on 1 or more of the following, dated info, resistance to change, a lack of experience with proper equipment (certainly the case with you and espi) and a flawed concept that really high angles are somehow an advantage on gear that's specifically built to provide leverage toe to heel while providing lots of play on the other axis so your solution is a third strap that prevents the flex that's specifically built into softboot gear for a reason and emulating a hard boot in the worst possible way.

In my 24 years of experience I have tried to ride flatter angles which has resulted in injury, overhang, and for myself less control. I don't require a 3rd strap, I only used (past tense) one when I cranked the angles up past 50. I bought a pair of MGX boots last year and have replaced the 3rd stap sytem for that board with an old set of Burton plates but if I ever wanted to do a variety of styles in one pair of boots I have that option. "Modern" technique and gear doesn't always pass the test of time. Remember when all the companies were making low top bindings? How about the "Contact" binding Burton came out with? Do you think in 10 years Lib Tech will still be making Bannana boards with Magnetraction? Maybe, but I personally don't think so. I had a friend who used to buy S/M bindings so he could where his hightop airwalk skate shoes so he could tweak insane airs. We all told him he was going to blow out his ankle but he never did and he was famous (at the local hill) for wearing tennis shoes while snowboarding. The lift guys called him the "tennis shoe guy"! His feet must have freezed! There was also a time when I rode with the rear highback off with a pair of Airwalk Evolution low cut boots for the same reason. Some things are timeless like the Winterstick swallow tail shape. And somethings come around for a second go like the old Lunchtrays, now the Mini, Nano, or Nome. Then there are things that never come back like the nose on the Look Lamar Trick Stick or foam core boards. And things I wish would come back like the 3rd strap and SI bindings. And finally there are things that are newly invented that rock like flow bindings and from what I hear the new sidewinders. Point is snowboarding is still a new and evolving sport and all the gear and technique used now is going to be "EVIL" and you'll be arguing with someone else (or me) about how outdated they are. If it works it works, and if it works well, it works well, and for me it works well.

[docrob]

would have replied earlier, but looked like the forum was US during your night/my day. couldn't get on.

Blue-not ignoring anyone. key jigsaw pieces sometimes come from the most unexpected quarters.

Rob,Bob,

People talking EC again.

When I've cracked more positive angles in softs, I'll work the hardboots towards EC, moving onto a specialist EC board.. Not thinking about EC as realistic on the dual with softboots even once skills are there. Only freecarves.

Can you be a bit more specific on the max rear boot angle and bootout for a learning carving setup with slarving where needed, and how this would differ after 10-15 days practice. I've only ever ridden duck, where more than about 1.5 cm overhang was noticeable on the only carves I could do; toeside.

Can the FR2 angles be adjusted quicker than most bindings; which seem to require the 4 insert screws loosened right off..a bit of a pain?

Coming down an alp involves constant alternation:n kilometers slarving;n carving etc etc. It would be unrealistic to keep stopping and readjusting to slarving/carving angles.

[docrob]

Blue, wish there was more detail in that poll!

Probably for learning carvers without hardboot experience, the poll would find much lower angles?

[BlueB]

Blue-not ignoring anyone.

I didn't say it as a rant. Contrarry - I think it would be a good idea. Entire info you need is summarized in that Rob's post. The rest of this huge tread is the entertaining "noise" that has, here and there, bits of info usefull to you, but you could just as well ignore it.

Listen to Rob, he knows.

[docrob]

I did'nt hear a rant from you either! Had no problem atall with your comments.

Just wanted to appreciate all genuine folks for their ideas, regardless of whether they subsequently became embroiled in necessary heated controversy!

[bobdea]

In my 24 years of experience I have tried to ride flatter angles which has resulted in injury, overhang, and for myself less control. I don't require a 3rd strap, I only used (past tense) one when I cranked the angles up past 50. I bought a pair of MGX boots last year and have replaced the 3rd stap sytem for that board with an old set of Burton plates but if I ever wanted to do a variety of styles in one pair of boots I have that option. "Modern" technique and gear doesn't always pass the test of time. Remember when all the companies were making low top bindings? How about the "Contact" binding Burton came out with? Do you think in 10 years Lib Tech will still be making Bannana boards with Magnetraction? Maybe, but I personally don't think so. I had a friend who used to buy S/M bindings so he could where his hightop airwalk skate shoes so he could tweak insane airs. We all told him he was going to blow out his ankle but he never did and he was famous (at the local hill) for wearing tennis shoes while snowboarding. The lift guys called him the "tennis shoe guy"! His feet must have freezed! There was also a time when I rode with the rear highback off with a pair of Airwalk Evolution low cut boots for the same reason. Some things are timeless like the Winterstick swallow tail shape. And somethings come around for a second go like the old Lunchtrays, now the Mini, Nano, or Nome. Then there are things that never come back like the nose on the Look Lamar Trick Stick or foam core boards. And things I wish would come back like the 3rd strap and SI bindings. And finally there are things that are newly invented that rock like flow bindings and from what I hear the new sidewinders. Point is snowboarding is still a new and evolving sport and all the gear and technique used now is going to be "EVIL" and you'll be arguing with someone else (or me) about how outdated they are. If it works it works, and if it works well, it works well, and for me it works well.

this post again confirms you have little experience with gear, flows are from 1996.but more to the point modern technique is based on modern gear, this is why skiing straight skis is different than skiing anything from the last decade. it's why teaching technique evolves, racing technique evolves and so on. try running high angles on baseless bindings and low backs. at the time they worked well for a specific use but not for others you partially just made the same argument I am without realizing it. yes, some things are cyclic, wide boards are popular in alpine again and metal is big, checker pigs were around in 1990, the checker pigs were wide and had a titanal construction but it does not mean they perform anything like a modern wide metal GS stick and watching someone ride a something like checker pig or a PJ looks much different (if you look closely) than watching some hot dogger rip on a kessler KST or even less new like a sims burner or a f2 speedster of earlier vintage that were both introduced less than a decade apart from the piggy.

the fact that you tried riding lower angles and you hurt your knee is anecdotal at best. lots of skiers would go out and ski for a day with shaped skis for a day and hate it because they refuse to learn a new technique to ski and then cop out by buying old skis as long as the supply of straight skis lasted and insisted that straight are better but it is/was just them not willing to roll with the new gear.

I don't know a good skier that will tell you straight skis are better than things with sidecut just like I don't know a good snowboarder that thinks a burton performer is better than 2010 burton custom.

the point in this thread is he's riding modern gear, a 2010 board. but you are now pushing your common agenda here of older is at least as good and just different. you, like SBS and ESPI come here and refuse to listen to what most of us say who actually have experience on new stuff and instead push your agenda. you're the same guy who will not spend more than $200 on a board and loves saying so then bitches about the price of new boards. you were whining to a ****ing board builder that makes the very cheapest entry level alpine board available that his prices on it are too high.

the three of you have agendas that directly contradict the modern excepted norm. you have come out and said things to the effect that racers and anyone that buys the newest shapes are mostly just trend whores and espi has said this about freestyle pros as well. you, SBS and espi all lack experience with many types of modern gear and technique. that's FINE if you feel that way but expect to be called out on your agenda. same goes for me, call me a modern times nazi or whatever, I'll defend my position.

[bobdea]

would have replied earlier, but looked like the forum was US during your night/my day. couldn't get on.

Can you be a bit more specific on the max rear boot angle and bootout for a learning carving setup with slarving where needed, and how this would differ after 10-15 days practice. I've only ever ridden duck, where more than about 1.5 cm overhang was noticeable on the only carves I could do; toeside.

Can the FR2 angles be adjusted quicker than most bindings; which seem to require the 4 insert screws loosened right off..a bit of a pain?

Coming down an alp involves constant alternation:n kilometers slarving;n carving etc etc. It would be unrealistic to keep stopping and readjusting to slarving/carving angles.

the FR2 is a pain in the ass to adjust, requires two included hex keys to change your angles.

as for the max angles question it's more a range than a set maximum that depends on many things. you're looking to find a BALANCE of pros and cons.

Rob and probably beckmanAG, and philfell are the ones with the most softboot know how I can think of on this forum.

[docrob]

Nice tune! amazing groom! Seriously; I don't think I ever saw grooooom as smooth. Must be midwest?

strap it across the back of your helmet next time!

[Snowman]

Correct me if I am horribly wrong; but, this is a hard boot, plate binding, alpine board (race board) web site, right?

Think Snow.

[dano]

Carvefathers X wife:( We used to do a Colorado trip every year with them, once they split No more:( I think that picture was Aspen 2002 for the last PureCarve session. Not to be confused with Joerg and Pureboarding.

Could only have been a little better on a Maverick 175/nordica sbh's and shackled to the bar for stability.

[dano]

Then you should be the first to stand up and admit it now. This forum is not a free-for-all place to kill time, it has a mission, and a big part of it is to help people get into and better at carving. You blast a lot of advice all over this forum and too much of the time it is simply not that good. While this is not technically against the rules, it is detrimental to our mission and that is an even bigger problem. One thing you are consistent about is telling everyone what a great rider you are, in nearly every post. (and the knife signature... seriously?) All of this is extremely frustrating because I and others have known for some time that you are an intermediate carver with much to learn. We appreciate your good intentions, but it is time for a reality check. People posting carving advice without the carving skills to back it up as much as you do stunts the progress of the community. Your enthusiasm is great and you seem like a nice guy, but your level of riding and understanding is disparate with your posting habits. I urge you to leave your small pond and go to the SES and ECES and get a glimpse of some of the real experts on this forum (there are many, Geoff is one), and realize what you are lacking before continuing to pass yourself off as one of those experts. We'll be glad to help you if you want.

You gonna sit next to him and listen? Probably best to keep him at the kiddie table.

[Dave ESPI]

You gonna sit next to him and listen? Probably best to keep him at the kiddie table.

LOL!

[bobdea]

No, you are missing the point. You aren't carving at Taylor Pass. If you had posted a pic or preferably video of yourself carving down a black level trail it would mean something.

Wow Yesterday was Best Tiehack groom this year :)

8:45 to 3:00 Tiehack Blacks, Racers Edge and Tiehack parkway

Non-Stops SL and GS Carves...on a Friggen Supermodel

I did stop to take a leak...never stop for lunch though...

Maybe you have Been to Buttermilk at SES or the World Carving Folks?

Do you really think that after starting 25 years ago that I've only made it to

greens and Blues :lol:

Here is a Vid. of Run #2 yesterday

Softboots where copied from Sorels which I had back in the day...

Burton stopped making 3 straps because they were not selling...

That is because the Jib Masters said for Tricks the top strap is restrictive

which it most certainly is...Carving and Pow is my Trick...

again, you missed the point! that POV video is a little faster but pretty much the same thing you posted before. that said, you'd have to be pretty laid out for a helmet cam to be impressive.

the bigger question is why do you spend so much time filming when you're riding alone? IDK, seems like if you're trying to prove something it would help if people could see something other than some gentle first person riding. the only thing I can tell you from your videos so far is if you got something with a bigger SCR you could carve at speeds that would be more impressive from a helmet mounted cam. I have no video of myself, nor do I take many pictures. just saying that since you feel the need for acceptance here and keep posting vids and the random pic you might as well hand someone else the video camera for a run.

[johnasmo]

I hate to redirect this back to Flow bindings but a non-alpine rider I ride with swears by them. He likes the convenience but especially the rigidity & support. Someone said that some of the middle years of Flow bindings had some durability issues (unique hardware falling off & getting lost) but that they have since corrected this.

Aside from 3 strap bindings, is there any consensus that the new stiffer Flow bindings are a good way to carve with soft boots?

The quick (on the go) entry is a bonus, but support and lack of heel lift are the ride-time benefits of the design. The flow design itself squeezes the boot into place with more force than typical strap-ins, which is good at preventing heel lift and contributes to the locked in feeling.

Flow has a ton of models, some with rigidity and support, and some not so much. The level of rigidity and support you feel comes mostly from the size and stiffness of the strap. The stiffness of the base and highback are noticeably different on different models as well, but the strap has the most impact on the feel of the binding. If you go to a dealer, squeeze all the straps in the heel to toe direction and you'll feel the difference. The more flexible the strap is in this direction, the less supportive it will feel.

I ride Flows on all my non-alpine boards. From powder to BX and everything in between. Basically, the softer the board or the snow I intend to ride with it, the softer the Flow model I'll put on that board.

Nothing in their current lineup comes close to the stiffness they were putting out 5 years ago. That's actually good, though, because they had gone too far there for a couple of years; too much of a good thing can be, well, bad. Support is good, but lack of mobility kinda defeats the softboot paradigm. I think they went a bit too far the other way now, but it's what the buying public seems to want.

Anyway, what you want is support against forward lean if you're going to reduce or eliminate your toe overhang (something I don't bother doing). Without overhang, you'll be working harder to lever the board over on edge when on hardpack. My experience is that having an average softboot squeezed between the highback and a stiff Flow single-piece strap ends up being more supportive than buying the stiffest softboots you can buy and using normal strap-ins with two straps.

In their lineup, the bigger stiffer straps are the ones on their "freeride" models. Today, that's pretty much limited to the NXT-FRX and the M-11 models. For older models, I can recommend the "Pro 11" and its derivatives from about 2005 onward, which includes the "Pro FR" (2006) and the "The Eleven" (2007). These are reliable and slightly more supportive than the current M-11 model. You should be able to find 08 or 09 M-11's for less than $150.

Flow still has some design and quality issues from model to model. Oddly enough, it's the hardware (nuts, bolts, attaching mechanisms) on their metal baseplate models (NXT-FR, Team) that give me the most problems. Their nylon/fiber models (M-11, The Eleven, Pro-11) have been pretty bullet proof. The early NXT's had some brittle ladder straps, but I think they fixed that the second year.

[bobdea]

on the issue of flows.

lots of people are saying fastec stuff is more reliable and performs better. these are mostly your average softbooter types though.

catek even sells fastec

edit: just realize all fastec systems I have see are regular 2 strappers not big one strap systems like flow and probably ride something more like a burton cartel than the flow 11s

one thing that's becoming big is softboot canting, Ride and burton are both offering cants for their softboot bindings now.

[BlueB]

one thing that's becoming big is softboot canting, Ride and burton are both offering cants for their softboot bindings now.

Once the jibsters have realised that canting helps increase the stance, we can expet to see some of this concept taken to the maximum - youngsters sliding around standing on the tip and tail shovels of their boards! It is already naturally canted over there :D

Now for real, with my slightly forward stance on softies, I always craved for some heel lift at the rare binding. Mostly, I compensated by more lean on the rear highback.

[docrob]

Rob, Bob et al,

Reviewing your posts, am I right that on account of the different stances, It'd make more sense learning carving, to have a board setup just for that separate from a freeride setup? Then only try and combine the styles on e.g. a dual later?

Would a Palmer Pulse be fine to start carving?

Also, please confirm that first steps learning to carve would be easier with one of the soft setups discussed than going straight to hard boots with necessarily even steeper angles. Presumably, this would only be advised once used to intermediate positive angles?

[Ear dragger]

I may have missed it but no one has adressed burton mission bindings which have the toe cap. I read alot of talk regarding heel lift ,and mobility issues. I have a set of burtons, actually don'y like them anymore but, I can say they lock you're heel in place very well, and as far as carving with them, they did their job well ( in conjuction with burton hail boots). I found the boot quite stiff, and for me they seemed to cut off some circulation on my toes. Buit as far as a softie carving setup, I think it was pretty damn good. Bottom line for me is that hard boots are waaay more comfy for me, so I'm gonna sell my brand new softie setup.

I don't know where this thread went but I thought it had something to do with boot overhang and beginning to carve. so,to me set up the binding with boot in it and turn up the angle until you get no overhang. ride that way for a couple of runs, if it is too strange and you just hate it, back the angles off a little bit then try again. Give it a fair chance though.

Seems to me that in the end, if you are trying to carve turns, you might as well ditch the softies and spend the money on hard boots (sitff or soft) and of course expensive liners. then go for a binding that will suit you're needs, maybe stiff as hell or soft. I think it's pretty funny seeing the retro day 3 strap pics some people are posting, and actually still riding on them!!

[ursle]

Correct me if I am horribly wrong; but, this is a hard boot, plate binding, alpine board (race board) web site, right?

This thread is starting to read like Dune to me

Baron Vladimir Harkonnen has gotten the upper hand over the young Duke Leto Atreides and the imperial court has sided with the Baron(as a feint inside a feint inside a feint),the OP is a softbooter asking softbooter questions while domination of the universe is tipping in balance of House Harkonnen, and I want the conditions to stay the way they are in the north east, hard and chaulk, so I can ride my NSR with vist plates... game on ;)

BTW snowman +1 for pointing out that the winner of the Gold medal is to be honored and held in high esteem, I was saddened to see his name thrown down and walked on here on bomber, I considered it a grave injustice...

[docrob]

Last thoughts perhaps:<O:p></O:p>

------------------------<O:p></O:p>

Eardragger… <O:p></O:p>

I realised about the hardboots and plates being to aim for/perfection for carving well before the OP, but being a relatively inexperienced softbooter, only used to +15/-15 on freeride boards, I figured it might be better to transition into true alpine hardbooting via fairly benign angles with softboots. But…I didn’t want to commit to such gear unless at a later date, once into hardbooting, I couldn’t also use the same soft setup with slightly higher angles if necessary; say up to 35/20 for a hybrid freeride/freecarving setup on one of the boards designed for this flexibility with soft boots (e.g. dual)…which EC hardbooters in Europe seem to find very worthwhile for a whole mountain day with varied terrain including groom.<O:p></O:p>

---------------------<O:p></O:p>

Rob, Bob et al…<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

For the learning carving soft setup<O:p></O:p>

Hows about, say, about 15 rear, and 25-30 at the front :<O:p></O:p>

-Edgerisers (dot com)<O:p></O:p>

-Malamutes with modern winged binding (Binding suitability/benefits of this stiffer boot over Northwave legend...advice/speculation required-see below)<O:p></O:p>

-2008 Palmer Pulse 162<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

You said:<O:p></O:p>

“I have ridden alot of what is out there in the softboot world and the only way to control them at high angles is to have winged highbacks or a third strap.”(Rob Stevens)<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

“I'm pretty firm in not thinking wings should be a consideration on softboot bindings as most highbacks you can rotate a fair amount anyway. if you need the wings you should be looking into hard boots. same thing with a 3rd strap.” (Bobdea)<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

(Although, perhaps Bob wasn’t considering there someone only talking about initial learning stage here; just getting the hang of carving with slightly larger angles than for freeride)<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

I’m attracted to a highback with the option to also rotate it, because they are available on fully up to date bindings (better design perhaps, and warranty), and even have cant adjustment.<O:p></O:p>

The bindings also offer more flexibility and less weight than the Cantek FR2 Evo; which I’m thinking might be a better option on e.g. a Swoard Dual for a more experienced carver, able to carve and freeride on the one setup in softboots. For mixed all-mountain sessions.<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

I also remember Rob recommending a light binding for learning, which these winged highbacks are, and am not attracted to the third strap in situ to flap around when not in use, and also since these are attached to older products.<O:p></O:p>

The problem with the current Burton highback<ST1:p</ST1:p is it's Burton(3 hole),<O:p></O:p>

And maybe, even with a 4<SUP>th</SUP> drilled hole, the load spread wouldn’t be as good as 4 attachments spot on for the inserts.<O:p></O:p>

Also, I’m sure if they have the additional rotation or cant options.<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

I am very curious about the Technine 2010/11 Mens Pro Series Team Pro and Blue Magoon; with the “scrub hook highback” wings only on the side they’d be needed on, cant adjustment and additional rotational option. (Links below).<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

While it’s not very clear how the models differ, apart from the girly colours to make a bloke want to boke (Is “urban crusher” a feature of the binding for example, or the category that both above models fit into, or meaningless hype to impress school kids?)<O:p></O:p>

<O:p> </O:p>

So, what do you think folks?; one of these asymetric winged jobbies, or Flow (NXT FRX, 08/09 M11, or Eleven 2007)

Liking stepin!

<O:phttp://business.transworld.net/30129/snow/technine-201011-binding-preview/ <O:p></O:p>

<O:p</O:p

http://www.technine.com/2010/bindingtech.html<O:p></O:p>

<O:pUrsle; well I'm still learning!

[ursle]

Ursle; well I'm still learning!

Not a problem, we've all been there...

Might I make a suggestion or two?

First pick up a copy of "How the Racers Ski" by Warren Witherell, to understand what carving is...

Second- if you want to know what angles you will boot out at, get your camera and take a picture of your boots on your board and post it, then no one will guess, seein is beliveing...

Third- if you're coming to the North East (USA), plop down in Southern Vermont, Stratton,Okemo,Mt Snow and Killington all within an hour of each other, if your dates coincide with the ECES (1st week of March) Stratton would be the place to be...

[Rob Stevens]

For the learning carving soft setup<O:p></O:p>

Hows about, say, about 15 rear, and 25-30 at the front :<O:p></O:p>

-Edgerisers (dot com)<O:p></O:p>

-Malamutes with modern winged binding (Binding suitability/benefits of this stiffer boot over Northwave legend...advice/speculation required-see below)<O:p></O:p>

-2008 Palmer Pulse 162<O:p></O:p>

<O:p

That'll work.

Don't get too hung up on the binding choice. A higher end 4 hole binding will do from any manufacturer.

Look at some of Jack's drills on this site for things to try while riding. I also like Blue's "Carpet Carving" advice.

Otherwise, ride. No substitute for mileage.

Oh yeah... Post a video when you go, but get someone else to hold the camera, or the only advice you'll get would be better off being sent to the guy driving the groomer.

[docrob]

Thanks ursle!

Although I spent a lot of time reading about modern sidecut etc when carving skis really made their debut in the years recovering after my skiing accident in '83! Then,again, having got back into it again in the last few years and branching into tele skiing more recently.

As regards angles, discussions here have me pretty clear about what I'm going to experiment with.

It's really down to picking the most relevant kit now, and quickly; since I only have a few more days this season, and there's not a lot of snow in NH right now.

Not on snow this easter. Missed the full climbing body work out last easter skiing and boarding in Austria, so climbing in Arizona this year. That's it then until next Christmas in New Hampshire.