Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Noob question


Liamthedevastator

Recommended Posts

I assume you are a softbooter, and hopefully have tried riding with an agressive stance as being ducked out won't feel quite the same with how the motion of the body and hips helps as opposed to just the knees and ankles with a sideways (edge to edge perpendicular) stance.

Torsional twist or a "tweek" with your front foot in opposite side of the board from the pressure on the back foot. Use of this with the boot/binding transfers pressure to opposite sides of the board. If you are carving on your toeside, and want to switch to the heel, you lift your front toes/boot/binding UP and as you do this, turn your knee and keep body and hips in line while applying pressure to the heel of the front foot. Keep the rear toes in the snow and once the front disengages, follow your front foot and set the heelside edge. Reducing effective edge contact area to the snow and re directing its trajectory will pop it loose. You also need to shift your weight to the back foot and lighten the nose, or push forward on the nose to engage it with your weight centered over the transitional center of gravity on the board. It is one fluid motion. Try it on the carpet of your room while strapped in. It will make sense once you see how the tweek works.

HTH.

I'm sure some others can explain in different terms if this doesnt make sense, but being a softbooter also, I think it will ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simple terms: You turn the board sideways and slide just like you do on a soft board. Think of ice skates - they can generate huge grip but you can still do a hockey stop.

It takes more skill to really lock an edge in a carve than it does to sideslip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, what he said!

You can still skid a carving board to a stop. Some boards will be easier to skid than others, and the grippiness of the snow surface and your speed all come into play. It will feel a little different than on a freestyle board, but it just takes some practice.

OR, you can just keep in the carve until the board points uphill and let gravity stop you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A hockey stop is a hockey stop. Just let the tail get loose, slide it across the fall line and let it bite again. Of course how fast you can do this without eating **** is a skill level thing... As I think about this some more, doing that beginner "falling leaf" drill would probably be a good thing to review if you make the switch. Just get comfortable with edge pressuring skills with the new stance and equipment kind of deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

woah, thanks for the help! From what i'm getting so far it's really just the whole hockey stop deal. Minus the trees. I'm not sure i want the tranquil alpine foliage joining me in my lessons; i'd rather just observe them as i zip by :P

@ Dave ESPI: what you're describing is basically just 'helixing' the board right? like, pressure on toeside at the front, and heelside at the back (and visa versa)? I get what you're trying to say though, one of my friends suggested that too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

woah, thanks for the help! From what i'm getting so far it's really just the whole hockey stop deal. Minus the trees. I'm not sure i want the tranquil alpine foliage joining me in my lessons; i'd rather just observe them as i zip by :P

@ Dave ESPI: what you're describing is basically just 'helixing' the board right? like, pressure on toeside at the front, and heelside at the back (and visa versa)? I get what you're trying to say though, one of my friends suggested that too.

OMG, that's the most over stated thing I have seen anyone post on this forum in awhile, it's not nearly as complicated as dave espi makes it sound and IMO he's kinda off the mark.

the whole board twist bit I really don't buy other than if it's preceded with "imagine you're trying to" because there's too many variables in the real world.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I got my first proper alpine board, skidding was kind of hard at first. It was the same length as the freeride board I was on before (and it was an all-mountain alpine board, so the edge was only slightly a longer) but felt like I had an extra two feet of edge working for me. Which is probably about right... the tip and tail of a soft board won't bite much, but with a stiff board, the whole edge is working for you.

It only took a day or so to get used to keeping the board flatter for skids, and pretty quickly it just became normal. Alpine boards skid to a stop the same way freeride boards do, you just have to make finer adjustments. Now when I ride a soft board, that feels weird.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...