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Camber


photodad2001

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When I'm carving there's usually a 1-2 foot space between arcs...camber assisting in airborne edge changes!

I agree with this. It all depends on our ride styles though. I have had many days where I'm rip carving both in hard booots and and softies, and it is a "subtle hop" transition from edge to edge and the trail looks a bit like a sidewinder with crescent moon carves in opposite directions as opposed to an "S" with connected transitions.

Camber indeed is a factor for "pop in the hop", but isn't necesary.

Camber however is good for "keeping the ice and slush from sitting on your board as it kinda "SPROING!" gets it off the board as it re-shapes in each turn...

:lol:

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Torsionally twisting the board out of the old turn & into the new one, the tip starts to engage before the tail completely releases, so the ends of the trenches bypass each other for 2-3ft.:1luvu:

Yes, this is what I mean by one line...

Typically on my sticks (164 to 166 range)I get maybe no space inbetween

carve tracks...the big boys with 176 and above and flat noses would of

course be able to overlap the tracks...I believe however from my own

experience that it is the flex and sidecut that are important here and camber

would come into play when you are on your way down the hill riding flat

and have yet to crank your first turn...once we load on the initial turn

thats when the real party starts...at least for me anyway:biggthump

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YeeHaw snow at 12,000 buttermilk tiehack sleeps below...

So what do I need...Gravity>Slope>Snow,Powder or Groomed>Bodyweight>

Length and width>Flex and Sidecut>Rocker on the ends please>Boots> Bindings>Stance angles>Stance widths>Angulation right or left>Cool looking

topsheet>Appropriate clothing>Sunshine would be nice>Big Grin:biggthump

post-6900-141842259357_thumb.jpg

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YeeHaw snow at 12,000 buttermilk tiehack sleeps below...

So what do I need...Gravity>Slope>Snow,Powder or Groomed>Bodyweight>

Length and width>Flex and Sidecut>Rocker on the ends please>Boots> Bindings>Stance angles>Stance widths>Angulation right or left>Cool looking

topsheet>Appropriate clothing>Sunshine would be nice>Big Grin:biggthump

Very cool, thanks for the thoughts and the photo. I like the green grass of the ski area in the shade and the high peaks in the sun. Very cool.

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Torsionally twisting the board out of the old turn & into the new one, the tip starts to engage before the tail completely releases, so the ends of the trenches bypass each other for 2-3ft.:1luvu:

If you think about this for a minute, you'll realize that if you were riding a board that was able to do this, it would have to be so torsionally soft as to be almost unrideable.

Carve tracks overlap when you change edges fast enough such that the tail end of your board hasn't moved beyond the nose end of your last carve.

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Thanks for all the input. It's been realy informative. Softbootsailor, we need to get together for a drink, or 10 or so. Do you like rum?

I am a poor boy, doing what I love most with what I have. This season my goal is to come close to what the Casper Carver puts out.... You have shown me what FREE-CARVING really is. We haven't corisponded, but your style is what I want to be. I gave up competition years ago. I've realized that it's "not going to happen" for me, but what you do is so inspiring for me because it's all about the soul. I am a soul carver... windsurfer... and even in-line skater... skateboarder... whatever. At 37 I realize that anything I do is just for the experiance, the "fun", the exilaration. All you guys with the money and new boards and ultra carving machines.... Good carving. I'm gonna have more fun with the few friends I have and the new... "used" equipment" I have.... I've been "flagged" for sevral months... Dictators....

My knees are raw. If I can't say what I want to say on this forum so be it.

So I can't afford a 2007 or better Canadian or European board. If you off me for that it's on you. I love Burton!!!!!!!!!!

USA, All the way!!!

PHOTODAD2001

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If you think about this for a minute, you'll realize that if you were riding a board that was able to do this, it would have to be so torsionally soft as to be almost unrideable.

Carve tracks overlap when you change edges fast enough such that the tail end of your board hasn't moved beyond the nose end of your last carve.

Excuse me...I believe I have seen some of the Karate Kids around here

do just that on their purecarves and or maveriks...of course those boards

are a long way away from long coilers or virius sticks nowadays...

:biggthump

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YeeHaw snow at 12,000 buttermilk tiehack sleeps below...

So what do I need...Gravity>Slope>Snow,Powder or Groomed>Bodyweight>

Length and width>Flex and Sidecut>Rocker on the ends please>Boots> Bindings>Stance angles>Stance widths>Angulation right or left>Cool looking

topsheet>Appropriate clothing>Sunshine would be nice>Big Grin:biggthump

Good list, you forgot, canting>flexion & extension>cooler of pbrs(it's gonna be 100* again today):cool:

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Excuse me...I believe I have seen some of the Karate Kids around here

do just that on their purecarves and or maveriks...of course those boards

are a long way away from long coilers or virius sticks nowadays...

:biggthump

mmm... nope. doesn't happen. no offense.

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Photos of what each of you are describing would be helpful. I believe that both of you may be correct at least to some degree. The terms used may be conveying a slightly skewed or "twisted" (sorry , couldn't help myself :D)

description of what is being discussed? Photos would probably help clear this up. "Bypass, overlap, traveling passed, must be used with caution for they could be easily miss-understood? "Nope" is not so easily miss-understood of course. In the hours of lift riding, I have taken a few photos that might help if I can dig them out. Or you might stroll through a few thousand photos in the "Ski Area" galleries here.

Or perhaps:

---------------

,,,,,,,,,,,,----------------------

vs:

--------------

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,------------------

vs:

-------------

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,-------------

Edit- I had to add the commas because the space went away when I 'Saved" to the thread, leaving them all the same.

would help.

Happy Summer everyone. Don't break your leg please. It is not a good thing.

Somewhere in the middle. Bryan

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post-198-141842259364_thumb.jpg

post-198-141842259366_thumb.jpg

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Have you noticed how it always seems to be something we forget?

I do remember Mt. Gay Rum in Barbados many years ago...

and I remember how to make a good margarita...

and after 35,000 miles on a snowboard I remember how to turn...

and if the man who started this thread E-Mails me his address I will

send him a COLDSURF sticker. I surf on my snowboard and that is the truth!

and my sticks all seem to have very little camber and work just fine

and that is also the truth.:biggthump

One of the great joys in life is dancing, no matter how you do it...

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Torsionally twisting the board out of the old turn & into the new one, the tip starts to engage before the tail completely releases, so the ends of the trenches bypass each other for 2-3ft.:1luvu:

I'm trying to picture in my head how this would work...

You come to the end of a carve (toeside, for the sake of discussion) and you wrench the nose of the board to the other edge. So you're leaning on your front heel, while still maintaining pressure on your rear toe.

Does anyone here actually go bow-legged like that as they change edges? And conversely, you'd have to drive your knees toward the center of the board (if not beyond it) when switching from your heel edge to your toe edge. That sounds incredibly awkward.

And then let's consider the fact that to maintain a carve the board has to actually be turning. What happens in the middle of the board when the tail is carving right and the nose is carving left? Until I see someone riding a board with a hinge in the middle I'm thinking this isn't possible.

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I'm trying to picture in my head how this would work... I'm thinking this isn't possible.

You are correct sir.

It's really quite simple. You come to the end of a carve. The board's uphill edge leaves a line in the snow that ends where the nose was last carving. Your board goes flat and you glide on the base for some distance. The downhill edge starts carving, leaving a line in the snow that <i>starts</i> where the tail started carving. If your board has a 150cm running length, and you glided on your base for 100cm while changing edges, the lines in the snow will overlap by 50cm. End of story.

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This May be the dumbest discussion in the history of bomber...

No, this is.

The dumbest technique discussion would be the one about jamming your knees together to somehow change carve radius, which is also impossible. (any posts arguing that in this thread will be deleted)

This one is close though.

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You are correct sir.

It's really quite simple. You come to the end of a carve. The board's uphill edge leaves a line in the snow that ends where the nose was last carving. Your board goes flat and you glide on the base for some distance. The downhill edge starts carving, leaving a line in the snow that starts where the tail started carving. If your board has a 150cm running length, and you glided on your base for 100cm while changing edges, the lines in the snow will overlap by 50cm. End of story.

This is what's happening in transition, for about the length of the board, It looks like both edges were in the snow at the same time.

I'm not trying to convince anyone that I'm twisting the board 180*.

Actively twisting the board into the new turn, for a split second, "feels like" the new edge at the tip starts to engage before the old edge at the tail has completely realesed. This dosen't happen with my camberless boards.

With 28*/40* angles & a 25cm wide board I can get some twist.

I only wish I had a pic me carving,let alone showing torsional flex at transition.

:argue:

Sorry for the flame war, I was a little drunk at the time

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This is what's happening in transition, for about the length of the board, It looks like both edges were in the snow at the same time.

I'm not trying to convince anyone that I'm twisting the board 180*.

Actively twisting the board into the new turn, for a split second, "feels like" the new edge at the tip starts to engage before the old edge at the tail has completely realesed. This dosen't happen with my camberless boards.

With 28*/40* angles & a 25cm wide board I can get some twist.

I only wish I had a pic me carving,let alone showing torsional flex at transition.

:argue:

Sorry for the flame war, I was a little drunk at the time

Really, the Question is what is the Lag time from when we start the turn

from the nose to when that energy reaches the tail...I wish I had a video of Larry the Butcher or someone comparable to really slow down and see...

and again far from being worthless this thread ask a good question...

The truth is my boards have almost no camber and carve on a dime

some have 3" and carve on a dime...so why is that?:biggthump

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The truth is my boards have almost no camber and carve on a dime

some have 3" and carve on a dime...so why is that?:biggthump

technique mostly.

the fact is, though, that you will carve better on a livelier board than you will on a dead board. Sure, plenty of people carve well on old boards. Plenty of people carve like crap on new ones too... But to any individual rider trying two boards with identical sidecut, width, length, and weight, The board with more camber will carve better.

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technique mostly.

the fact is, though, that you will carve better on a livelier board than you will on a dead board. Sure, plenty of people carve well on old boards. Plenty of people carve like crap on new ones too... But to any individual rider trying two boards with identical sidecut, width, length, and weight, The board with more camber will carve better.

A board is dead when the materials providing the flex are shot

camber is set by post tensioning by using flex

two identical boards with different flex would carve differently:biggthump

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But to any individual rider trying two boards with identical sidecut, width, length, and weight,
...

Should you add "flex" to your list of identicals? If you did I have a feeling the "math" WOULD work (your statement might be true)...

...

The board with more camber will carve better.

So Pogos or Viruses carve better than Coilers or Doneks? Different for sure but "better"?

kind of an over generalized statement don't you think?

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You are correct sir.

It's really quite simple. You come to the end of a carve. The board's uphill edge leaves a line in the snow that ends where the nose was last carving. Your board goes flat and you glide on the base for some distance. The downhill edge starts carving, leaving a line in the snow that starts where the tail started carving. If your board has a 150cm running length, and you glided on your base for 100cm while changing edges, the lines in the snow will overlap by 50cm. End of story.

This makes perfect sense but I'm going to ask a possibly stupid question anyway. When turning "aggressively" on a toeside carve (as an example), in some instances the front of the board leaves the snow while the rear of the board still has the edge set in the snow. During this split second of time, if that edge were still set into the snow and your front knee began to rotate outward into a heelside turn, wouldn't that be torsionally twisting the board into what you guys are talking about - basically wrentching the sh!t out of the board to make it twist in the middle, thereby popping the tail out from under you. Maybe I'm missing the point but you guys have me curious.

In this video

at the 2:56, 4:26 and especially at the 7:00 mark is this what is happening?

FWIW, I like my camber, but I've also never ridden board with no camber.

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