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Design a Carving Powderboard.


bumpyride

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I have an O'sin 4807 and a Burton Fish. They're fun and work well, but I still don't like em in any other conditions. Also have a couple of Burton coils that work pretty well in a foot or so, but why can't a guy have a carvingboard that is still quick edge to edge, holds on hardpack and floats in 2 feet??

The prow front on the O'sin floats the boat in anything. Once a nose brings the board up, is it so necessary to give up the stiffness of a carving board? What would a pretty stiff all mountain carver be like with a soft prow front, and a 2cm taper? Board would have the directional stiffness over the complete running length of the board. Thought about having a split-board built, but I don't like a noodle or anything too wide. I'd like to keep the waist at about 19, which is still pretty much wider than most full blown powder skis, although the Fat y puss is 140mm at the waist each.

What do you think?

Did I ever ask this before, and am I just losing it, or has it been on my mind so long, it's just taken over?

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Too Wide on the Dupraz. Trying to stay around 19cm.

You cant find a good pow stick becuase pow stick don't have 19cm waists and a board with a 19cm waist will nevermake a good pow board, which is why skiis are not so wide since there are 2????

Hence Kimos well worded Burn................

When I carve my fish most think its a race board.

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Why can't I find a Ferrari that will haul me and 7 friends up an off road trail?

Same reason you'll never have a wrist phone like Dick Tracy. Just time and technology, and in the case of a Ferrari--about 2 million bucks, give or take a couple.

Hey, I'm looking to kick around some ideas, that's all.

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I wouldn't get too hung up on the width thing. You'll only slow down you edge changes a tiny fraction by adding to the float. After time, you'll find your switch speed will pick up again anyway. Bordy's comment is also fair in that you can carve a screen door if you have the skills. I would never run my Fish on hardpack myself, but it has no bindings on it, so I'm not the best one to comment.

Go for some additional length and tortional stiffness between the feet. If you can find one, a Salomon Fastback is a nice choice. The Prior ATV is talked up around here all the time, though I've never ridden one myself. There are choices between what you're riding (dedicated pow boards) and having to buy something custom.

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You cant find a good pow stick becuase pow stick don't have 19cm waists and a board with a 19cm waist will nevermake a good pow board, which is why skiis are not so wide since there are 2????

Hence Kimos well worded Burn................

When I carve my fish most think its a race board.

I know how powder boards are made, and of course they don't have 19 waists, but has anyone tried? That's the question. The differences between my Burton Ultraprime 156 and my Burton Coil 156 are very significant. The Coil floats much better in deeper snow and still carves quite respectfully, though not as good on hardpack. The coil has a softer and higher shovel, a little less stiff, a little less running length, and is about 12mm wider at the waist, and yet it reacts totally different in deeper stuff. The 162 Coil is about 20 or 20.5 at the waist, and floats well at 18" deep.

Taking experience from my personal boards, that I have rode extensively, I'm thinking that the shovel will add considerably to floating. A small taper can't hurt, coupled with an all mountain carver stiffness, and additional t-nuts for a bigger setback, might just get a person closer. Just watching the my O'sin's nose rise up out of the depths of "Powder Hell", makes me think that it does it somewhat independently of what goes on behind the nose (wider, softer, swallowtail).

My point of view is--Don't tell me what can't be done without trying it. We'd all still be on skis if that was the case. Look at the Fish in particular. What a silly looking board, but it works. Why not try and work from that point of view? I'm weighing in at 150lbs, have a pretty light riding style, and am thinking that this just might work for me.

Anybody see that Ferrari Chassis set on a Hovercraft?

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I know how powder boards are made, and of course they don't have 19 waists, but has anyone tried?

Its been tried your the dude assuming, not?

My point of view is--Don't tell me what can't be done without trying it. We'd all still be on skis if that was the case. Look at the Fish in particular. What a silly looking board, but it works. Why not try and work from that point of view? I'm weighing in at 150lbs, have a pretty light riding style, and am thinking that this just might work for me.

See above insert. Been there done that, have the t-shirt?

Sorry for sharing.........Why would you assume I would post with out having real world experance?

Oh yea this is BOL.........

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It sounds like you're running alpine'ish angles. Is that true?

If so, stay with the waist width you like and just get a longer board. If the increased length could be 80% in the nose, you'd be better off. The downside to this is that you might find that the length creates a bit of a slower response, similar to, but not the same as increasing the width. If you want to use flatter, more traditional angles, your choices are more varied.

Again, a SBX board in a longer length, with as big a nose profile as you can find sounds like a good choice for you.

I will point out that "Powder Hell" does not exist.

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See above insert. Been there done that, have the t-shirt?

Sorry for sharing.........Why would you assume I would post with out having real world experance?

Oh yea this is BOL.........

Not meaning to offend anyone, nor question anyone's abilities or experience.

I haven't ever seen any prototypes or any mention of a powder board thats' failed with the combination of:

1. Prow (boat type) nose.

2. 2 cm taper

3. moderate stiffness

4. extra 2.5cm setback

5. 19 to 20cm waist.

Is there such an animal?

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We did this already:

http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=14474

Your tread, too...

I guess, why bother with anything sub 20 waist for any application? Even the race boards have gone that way now. Sacrifice is minimal and gains are huge. Keep it nice and fat and learn quick transitions with flatter angles.

There's always Skwal or Virus, for really high angles lovers, and good groomed slopes...

Ask Prior to make you a titanal ATV? It will rail like crazy and outfloat just about any race or AM board...

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Just about every thing on BOL has been done before. (which is why most of us old posters love thoose who do the search thing)

Funny its the same thread poster.

Bumpy sounds like you know what you want for a pow board so just jave someone make you one then go ride it.

I can make a skwal work in pow but hate doing it.

Find out for yourself.

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We did this already:

http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=14474

Your tread, too...

I thought I had done this before, but too many thoughts, not enough neurons.

Bordy, I think you're right. Best off just to suck it up and have it made. I do like the give and take of other's ideas, but always balk when someone just tells me no, just because. Always helps to talk to someone who's failed trying to do the same thing, more than talking to someone who's failed by not trying.

Still looking for someone who's tried this

I haven't ever seen any prototypes or any mention of a powder board thats' failed with the combination of:

1. Prow (boat type) nose.

2. 2 cm taper

3. moderate stiffness

4. extra 2.5cm setback

5. 19 to 20cm waist.

Is there such an animal?

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Hey bumpyride,

I think one important thing to keep in mind is that you are probably riding heavier powder in the Seattle area mountains than most anyone else responding to your thread. From my experiences in the Oregon powder, you can ride a stiffer board with less float than you would want in most areas. The crud up there will also beat you up compared to crud in lighter powder.

I ride soft boots on dedicated wide powder boards, but I will offer some thoughts as I think a lot about powder boards.

Ride what you think will be best for you. Many of the people I know ride boards that others think are ridiculous, but they love them.

The long shovel nose is great for powder. It really helps cut through the snow when you are riding in it, rather than on top of it. A soft nose floats better in soft snow, but if you are riding 32 degree powder days often enough, you will want it to be stiff enough not to fold up and throw you over the bars. I personally would stick to a flat bottom rounded nose like the Prior Spearhead rather than the O'sin nose, but it is probably irrelevant since I doubt anyone is set up to build the O'sin nose.

I have seen mention of riders having extra inserts put in behind the standard inserts so that they can ride further back on the deep days.

I would look at the 21.5 all mountain boards for the foundation of your custom deck. You may not need to go that wide, but they seem to have been ridden in powder by a good number of hardbooters.

I would personally want more taper than 2mm on a powder board or a carving board. It will make the nose float better and make it easier to turn in tighter situations. My powder boards have 15 to 30 mm and my apline boards are about 5 mm. They will all hold a carve as long as I want, but will also release quickly when I want.

Stiffness would be a compromise between soft for powder and stiffer for carving.

Maybe Mike T will chime in on his Tovino Pro 172 Coiler AM-T.

Talk this over with Bruce at Coiler and Chris or Dean at Prior. If you talk to both, you can figure out who is most on board with your idea.

Take care, Buell

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and take a POGO Longboard. Doesn't matter which one you take. Here was one for sale:http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=17092&highlight=pogo

I love the ones with a concave bottom:http://www.pogo.biz/shop/product_category_display.php?cPath=24_45&language=de

I ride a 175 for some years now. Superfast, easy to ride, fast edge to edge, long and short turns, enough float and an incredible edgehold on ice and hardpack! Never let me down. Ask Rob he bought this nice one, he is very satisfied with it.

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I found that 180 Pogo too stiff for my 145 pounds and sold it. It went to R Crobar in Canada and he loves it. If I were to get another one, I would get a 170 or 175, but I am really happy with my 166 Prior Spearhead which replaced it. They are all too wide for what bumpyride wants though.

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It's called a Tanker.

Its called the 192 Tanker, best compromise out there. 24.1 waist, big nose, and carves, floats and makes everyone I see shake their heads.

Hey, didn't eric (orcarve guy) build a 203 powder poard with a 21 waist? Thought Coiler did it, the headhunter....perhaps Bryan has a pic somewhere.

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I and others have been riding these powder deck designs for the last two seasons with soft and hardboot set-ups. Very good edge hold on hardpacked and great float in powder.

I had one early design at ECES a few years ago but didn't get anyone interested, so i rode with Jeff(Catek)and tested it myself, Jeff rode the 165 cruise deck.....I have been riding this powder shape and it has been tested by a few skier/boarders and they seems to love it.

Right now, I am focused on longboard skateboards and a longboard teak surfboard design.....I have all new designs for the snowboards(focused on soft-boot designs)and i am currently talking with a few manufacturers etc....

So who knows ...maybe new SZ 09.

SZ 185 powder_

Width: 24.9cm shovel

Waist 18.8cm -Waist: 17.3cm

Tail 20.5cm-Tail: 20.0cm

We did a few prototypes with shapes.

http://web.mac.com/surfrodz/Site/SZ_snow.html

Wayne

Wayne Gallipoli

Surf-Rodz, LLC

http://www.surf-rodz.com

wayne@surf-rodz.com

Product Preview_

http://web.mac.com/surfrodz

Design_

http://www.malfunctiondesign.com/

SURF-RODZ®

post-2699-141842248569_thumb.jpg

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