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Crack in toe bail piece. Is it safe?


newcarver

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I took my bindings appart, old Burton race plates, and found that the aluminum piece that goes over the toe bail and bolts to the plate has a big crack in it. It is cracked at the thinnest area where it was routed out for the bail wire piece. My question is, is this going to be safe to ride with? I would think not, but this will be my first time riding so don't realy know anything about this stuff. Another question is, can these be tig welded back together?:confused: This is a picture of the oldschool binding. Doubt that parts are still available?

post-5799-141842241145_thumb.jpg

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I took my bindings appart, old Burton race plates, and found that the aluminum piece that goes over the toe bail and bolts to the plate has a big crack in it. It is cracked at the thinnest area where it was routed out for the bail wire piece. My question is, is this going to be safe to ride with? I would think not, but this will be my first time riding so don't realy know anything about this stuff. Another question is, can these be tig welded back together?:confused: This is a picture of the oldschool binding. Doubt that parts are still available?

I agree with Pow: I can't see the damage in that photo -- you should repost and see if someone here can help you out with a spare part.

Gotta keep things in perspective: would you rather shell out for a new binding or new part, or risk a season-ending injury? That looks like your leading foot - if the binding fails at speed, it could be pretty ugly. Safety first!

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Here is a pic of the part. You can just make out the crack on the right upper side. Couldn't get a good closeup and the flash keeps reflecting back. If anyone has one of these pieces they can spare, please let me know. Otherwise I'm in the market for some good, cheap bindings:(

post-5799-141842241147_thumb.jpg

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There are those out there that swear by the Burton step in race plate (AKA Rat traps) but I will tell you a cautionary tale. If you flex your board they can/will release. No biggy if you are not traveling Mach Schnell ( I was lucky, below 5mph) but I would not trust them unbroken or otherwise. Also, when I upgraded to a better binding, my riding improved tenfold. I had the same board too. Save yourself some grief, save some pennies and buy some new binders. Sorry :(

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First off, I don't see the crack, but I know what you're talking about, and I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, DO NOT ride those bindings. I wouldn't bother trying to tig them back together either, it'll just mess with treatment of the aluminum and who knows what can happen. And for the cost of rat traps, they're not worth the hassle.

As for the integrity of the rattrap bindings in general, I got flipped at, who knows what speed, but it sure felt like mach schnell as I flew through the air. When I came to, both feet were both attatched securely to the board. I think if you have them fitting right, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. Granted, getting them to fit the way they should is a balancing act to say the least.

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I would Strongly reccomend that you purchase a new pair of bindings rather than mess around with these. I would reccomend a Catek or Bomber binding while not being cheap are better than getting hurt. the other problem with Burton bindings is getting spare parts- not so with Bomber and Catek. I know I have ridden plates for 20 years and have broken numerous pairs of snow pros becuase the they were plastic and would shatter in cold weather also the wire bails would break because they were too thin. That was all that was available at the time and so I would have to put up with the problems. If you can come over to Summit county to ride this winter arrange to demo some bindings at Bomber. They will be able to set you up with the right ones and it won't cost much. Be sure to email them before you do this so they will be available to do this for you on the day you want to do it. A lot of times they are not always open so let them know and they will be there for you. Are you in Grand Junction? I used to ride at Powderhorn back in the late 80's and early 90's in hardboots there. That mountain is fun when the conditions are good. Skimping on bindings is asking for trouble!

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Abstract:

If you know someone with access to a cnc machine they could hook you up and you might have a cheap way of getting a replacement part, but otherwise don't risk it, use a plate in front and the remaining step-in back or choose catek or td2.

Body:

.... when i bought mine a long time ago the seller had purchased two sets.. one race plates and one rat traps... so he could use a ridgid binding for the front foot and a step in for the rear. So he sold me the other half of the sets. Use the good rat trap on your back foot cause its the only one that gets taken in and out all the time anyway, and it should be easy to find a set of race plates.. and you can just use one step in till you either break the remaining trap or decide it doesn't matter anymore.

Look, others cautions about the rat traps (i mean even when they're not cracked) are very valid, But I rode one on my back foot for a fair number of years (~5)without issue, and i still have it as a back up should i destroy two other sets of bindings i have. Do not use this binding unless it is adjusted so it doesn't snap down all the way unless you push down really really hard with your heel..so they are very tight when engaged.. (this way if its not on properly you will know right away) I ALWAYS tried to lift my boot heel really hard to make sure they were on before committing to a run.

final thought to my long winded reply... i have the TD2's (no step-in) and they are better than the burtons by a long shot, i use them exclusively now. Forget the step-in aspect, once you strap on a high quality binding with good canting like TD2 or catek you will sacrifice the step in for increased performance... if you don't want to spend the extra $ for step-in attachments.

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I took my bindings appart, old Burton race plates, and found that the aluminum piece that goes over the toe bail and bolts to the plate has a big crack in it. It is cracked at the thinnest area where it was routed out for the bail wire piece. My question is, is this going to be safe to ride with? I would think not, but this will be my first time riding so don't realy know anything about this stuff. Another question is, can these be tig welded back together?:confused:
No and No. You need a new pair of bindings.
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Turns out the only extra part I have is the rear portion. That's not going to help you but this might. Since it's going to be your first time carving it's good you wont be using these. When they are adjusted snug enough to really be effective, they are not even a "hands free" system, at least mine weren't. Kind of a hasstle at times if I remember right. And as a new carver you don't need to deal with that extra dimension. Hope you find some new bindings.

Pete

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Yeah, I decided to go with some new bindings. Thanks for the help. Now to decide what to get? I was looking at the Snowpro binding for their low price. Also considering the Ibex and F2. Don't know which would be best for me? I have 26M boot and weigh 160. Also, will be my first time in hardboots.

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I think I will put them up on E-bay for a collector or something. After reading about some Snowpro failures I might look into something different. Look's like the Bombers are out of stock until next season. :( I can't afford those right now anyway.

If you sell them, please list them as "spare parts" so that somebody else with less common sense doesn't hurt themselves trying to ride on them. You might do better selling them here on the Bomber classifieds to be honest, many of the folks looking for spare parts are right here.

Which page suggested that TD2s are out of stock? I just checked the store and they appeared to be in stock to me.

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After reading about some Snowpro failures...

Just to raise voice for Snowpros... They are not the greates bindings around, but are pretty good in my opinion. Certainly great value for money. I'm talking new Snowpro Race model, I don't know to what model failures Snowboardfast refered. New Race has 6mm bails as oposed to 5mm on Burton/Ibex or 5.5 on F2s. F2 has plastic toe and heel blocks, too.

Failure experienced by Dave seems to be due to stretching the binding over the limit to take a larger boot. You can find a tread about it.

One thing you have to do with them is to often check the 4 hold down screws on toe/heel blocks.

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Not sure what I was looking at before? Mike T, your right about them being in stock. Looked at something earlier said that something was out of stock? Not sure which bindings they were now.:freak3: Would the F2 carve RS bindings be a good budget choice to get started? Or should I just wait until I have enough for the TD2s? Would the Ibex be an OK choice?

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It was the TD2 Titanium that are sold out until 08/09 season. I went ahead and splurged on the TD2 standard:biggthump That is going to be my Xmass and Bday present. At least I won't have to worry about getting killed by having my boot separate from my board. I got 3 deg cant disks for both front and back and the soft E-rings. Hope this works out for me. Now I just need to save up for a stick worthy of these bindings.

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