Jump to content

dillrepair

Member
  • Posts

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.dillindustries.com

Details

  • Location
    milwaukee
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    home=alpine valley/cascade/tyrol favorite = vail
  • Occupation?
    college
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    donek fcII171, Sims carveII 167, burton stat7 demo, old kemper andy hetzel, Nitro shadow 164
  • Current Boots Used?
    Burton Wind, blue translucent & SB 413's as backups
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    TD2 standard.. burton race plates and carrier step ins as backups

dillrepair's Achievements

Member

Member (2/6)

10

Reputation

  1. My gf and I drove a big truck camper out this way from Wisconsin so I can carve and she can ski... we’re having a hard time seeing a good place to park it overnight fyor a few days around aspen Snowmass, so any leads would be appreciated. Thanks much and happy trenching. -Pat. Will try to check back here as often as I can.
  2. I'm headed out to park city on thursday, the only problem is that i'm taking a shuttle from SLC up there so i won't be able to stop anywhere like an outlet store. How tall are you etc. I'm 170 6'
  3. but i have a question... more philosophical than anything... i have two "all mountain" boards... (nitro shadow, morrow source) both 163... similar width, very slightly different sidecut (but lets ignore the sidecut for now), similar flex... but one has inserts that are set back about an inch or two further.. so i could set my bindings back a little more on one... is the one with inserts further back significantly better for powder, and is that significance worth $145? cause if not i might just take it back. sorry for the strange riddle. thanks for the advice. -PAt -- and yes i would much rather just get rid of both of them and get a better board but i don't have the time before i leave.
  4. yeah, it seems like misty is probably one of the best runs for carving, i could swear i saw ppl eating at that place you're talking about.. maybe they brought their food from somewhere else. for sure gimme a call and you'll see me out there if not.
  5. well, i wasn't even going to bother trying to get in touch with you cause it was looking like there would be no carving in telly all this week, but today is the day, maybe the only day. If you are still available come on out man... i will pm my phone # to you. or just show up to the mountain and ride groomers.. you will see me... blaze orange jacket so i don't get run into by other ppl.
  6. these are the models with the replaceable pieces i'm assuming, how much do you want for them? do you have any pics?
  7. ok, well, you want to sell me the whole thing for 150 or what? That was your original offer, or are you going to go sell them on ebay? i really need some new toe/heel pieces, gotta find them somewhere. These will work with regular bindings as previously stated right? I have no use for intec anything, td's are much better.
  8. I need some replaceable toe and heel pieces for burton wind boots, mine are starting to wear down too much. I'm willing to spend a reasonable amount of money on these if they are the correct part, so lemme know, send some pics if possible. Thanks much. -Pat
  9. How much for just the boots and all the heel/toe pieces that can attach to them? I really need these as replacement/backups for my winds, whose toe/heel pieces are beginning to wear thin. Or if you're only willing to sell these all together i guess i can do that, but i don't really need the bindings. -Thanks, Pat
  10. this is a long shot i know but if anyone happens to be driving that way i'll be arriving at the airport in montrose just before 2, you'd save me a heck of a lot of $ on the ride and i'd sure be willing to buy some gas and a beer, furthermore regardless of rides i'd love to go riding with any carvers in the telluride area during that week. -Pat
  11. You know... before i got the td2's i used to think i would "need" a better board, and yeah it makes it even better... but there is no substitute for a properly tuned board with good bindings... get yourself a nice professional base grind on a winterstieger or something, wax and a hone... and the bindings will put that stick to work for you. Get a new board next season, those bindings will last you a while.
  12. Abstract: If you know someone with access to a cnc machine they could hook you up and you might have a cheap way of getting a replacement part, but otherwise don't risk it, use a plate in front and the remaining step-in back or choose catek or td2. Body: .... when i bought mine a long time ago the seller had purchased two sets.. one race plates and one rat traps... so he could use a ridgid binding for the front foot and a step in for the rear. So he sold me the other half of the sets. Use the good rat trap on your back foot cause its the only one that gets taken in and out all the time anyway, and it should be easy to find a set of race plates.. and you can just use one step in till you either break the remaining trap or decide it doesn't matter anymore. Look, others cautions about the rat traps (i mean even when they're not cracked) are very valid, But I rode one on my back foot for a fair number of years (~5)without issue, and i still have it as a back up should i destroy two other sets of bindings i have. Do not use this binding unless it is adjusted so it doesn't snap down all the way unless you push down really really hard with your heel..so they are very tight when engaged.. (this way if its not on properly you will know right away) I ALWAYS tried to lift my boot heel really hard to make sure they were on before committing to a run. final thought to my long winded reply... i have the TD2's (no step-in) and they are better than the burtons by a long shot, i use them exclusively now. Forget the step-in aspect, once you strap on a high quality binding with good canting like TD2 or catek you will sacrifice the step in for increased performance... if you don't want to spend the extra $ for step-in attachments.
  13. mmmmm.....morphin! actually i bet i would look a lot like that in a racing suit with one of these helmets, scary.
  14. in response to your question.. yes.. as i understand it most snow tires have an outer tread layer that is soft and then as the treads wear down you get into a harder rubber compound, i can't remember the reason they do this.. other than to make you get new snow tires, but i think there was some specific design consideration involved. i can try to find the article i saw this in... it was something i found while searching for the info on some snow tires i was thinking of selling. These are unused, but i think the point was that buying used snow tires wasn't such a good idea.
  15. eh, i think its stiffer overall, but i don't have a factory prime to compare it to. i think the sidecuts are different... the stat 7 i have is much wider (so maybe the torsional stability is less?), but its also thicker from topsheet to base than a factory prime.. and older so .. i bet you'd still get a better ride out of a newer factory prime but this is open to interpretation. i think it would hold up to a steep turn, i dunno how well you would enjoy it, but its a pretty beefy board, and you almost have to put it steep on edge to get it to turn hard.
×
×
  • Create New...