What is your binding of choice.....

[philw]

Intec Proflex Titanium when they came out; those are still fine but I have a new pair which are now branded F2 but otherwise very nearly identical to the originals. They didn't mess with a design which works. Simple and low, fine for 62kgs of aggression.

I like the look of the American bindings: they're very pretty. But they seem over engineered to me. I don't want or need all those settings or fiddly bits. That said I've not tried them, so maybe I'm missing a trick. One day.

[Algunderfoot]

I have had Burtons, Freeflex Titaniums, Phiokka, and TD's. The original Burton step ins where a pain in the ass, went with the toe clip varity but after breaking two toe bails I dumped them. I inherited some Free flex Titaniums, moving up to the Intec heals and ran them happily for a few years until those too, began leaving pieces behind. At a higher level of riding toe bail breaks suck. Bola set me up with some closeout Phiokka's a few years back and I had no complaints, still have them, however after demoing a pair of TD2's, there is no comparison. TD2's rock period, solid, yet comfortable, easily adusted and bullet proof. "Over Engineered" damn straight, just the way I like it. I am pulling the Phiokkas off my Pow stick in favor of the less leveraging F2's, which I just purchased, more appropriate for an off piste board. Those Phiokkas are now spares and may be available for the right price.....

Al

[crucible]

Catek OS-1's and two pairs of Catek OS-2's.

All my other EDC boards have OS-2 baseplates and bridges on them for quick changes on the hill. I've used them hard for over 70 plus days each season for the past 5 years.

I haven't had any problems of the center screw loosening, but then again, I'm only 150 lbs soaking wet.

I also run a pair of Burton performance plates on my split-board, but I'm looking at the bomber spilt bindings as a replacement.

[Allee]

Oxygen standards (pretty nice and chunky for plastic binders, and lots of setup options), then went to TD1's. That was an experience! I went step in last season and wouldn't go back.

I bought a pair of F2 Carve RS Intecs at the end of last season as I find the TD1 interface way too stiff on my Axxess. Standard bindings just annoy me now, so I needed another option. Be interesting to see how they work out.

[Thor VonRippington]

I tried 7 different binding systems last year... some were intec some were regular. I still like Burton and Ibex Race Plates the best.

[Gtanner]

Started out with Burton Race-plates...after breaking them constantly for 5 years, I switched to a set of TD1's. My board started showing some signs of topsheet damage, but loved the responsiveness.

I've landed with two pairs of standard Catek OS1's . I love them. After I figured out the set-up, no more problems with the kingpin.

At 200lbs, I need a stiffer binding.

-Gord

[yyzcanuck]

Hey, Thorn... we know you're just a 'reactional' carver at best!! No wonder you still ride Burton! hehehe

[Thor VonRippington]

Hey, Thorn... we know you're just a 'reactional' carver at best!! No wonder you still ride Burton! hehehe

:lol: :lol:

[Bordy]

Perfect :lol: :lol: :lol:

So funny.

[Neil Gendzwill]

Started out with Emery (I think) plates on my old Gnu race room, then moved to Burton Race Plates which I still have on my rock board, then Intec (F2) RS step-ins which I'm running on my Tanker and now F2 Titanflex step-ins which I'm running on my Coiler. I've never broken anything except for a step-in heel which was totally my fault (screws came loose, didn't check them). I love the convenience of step-ins.

[SEJ]

Started with Burton Performance step ins, (they broke), then standard performance, then race, then OS1s. I like the OS1s due to price and the fact they are all metal. Buy them here for around $125. I still use the Burton race when I start on a new board, cause I keep getting longer boards and I think they are a little more forgiving while getting to know the longer stick. I have a pair of X bones that scare the s**t out of me. AM board only. The only metal on them is the bails and receivers. I would not recommend them to anybody big or aggressive.

[snowghost]

Burton performance plates 1995-1997.

Some of us have been teaching weekend hardboot riding improvement clinics since 1990, and the situation today is the same as it was then.

Except for "special events", there are no rental or demo boards available, so we have to bring our own versatile quiver of 6-10 race/all mountain boards, with "easy to adjust plate bindings", to every clinic.

Many intermediate riders are held back by their choice of equipment, but will not admit it until they feel the difference and/or watch themselves on video. A lot riders use equipment that is expensive and great for pros, but way over their individual skill level, weight, or strength. I have never had a performance plate break while on the hill. Naturally, we check every binding, every day, before we go up the lift.

We also travel with a quiver of demo hard snowboard boots for the same reason, and to get soft boot riders to give hardboot riding a try.

Hardbooters over 30 are a lot like golfers, who continue to use the stiff shafts of their youth, when they are no longer the best choice of equipment for them.

Anyone got feedback? - "ghost"

PS: Naturally, the old performance plate is not what I ride today, when I am not doing one of these clinics, but I'm not riding anything as stiff as my old Cat#7's either.

[b0ardski]

stepin all the way baby. got burton rat traps in 94-5, still use'm w/my nordica sbh for hiking. the rat traps don't work w/intec heel pins. my raichle's & blax use the old nitro/fritzi/intec's. the mechanism on the plate is tougher & simpler than the retracting pins & cable. BTW if any o'yall got some old style intec's i'll take'm off your hands.

Update: Selling off my intec gear. Have decided to stay with my 13 year old stepin Nitros, since I was able to procure a replacement pair NOS. They are all metal with solid steel pin plate thru bolted to the heel of the boot & very adjustable with cant wedges & lifts. Anyone with stepins like this let me know. Similar to Japans G-style. Super simple, I would love to see this heel piece fit to trenchdiggers.

[scotts.Scheinman]

TD2 is hands down the best alpine binding out there. After using OS2s for a sesason, TD's blow them out of the water.

[bumpyride]

Burton race plates

" step-in race

" performance plate

" step-in performance

" titantium plates

" Rat traps (alumunium plate)

" Carrier- 2 degree built in cant

" Carrier step-in 2 degree cant

Rossigol lever adjustable disc

Proflex Intecs

F2 Intec comps.

I'm not a G force to be reckoned with. I'm mainly off the groomers so I need something that gives a bit of flex, and is easy on the boards, but still locks you in when the flex maximum is reached. Never broke a binding so I still like the Burton Carriers for a guy my size (150). Thought the metal Burtons were too stiff and telegraphed bumps and chatter way too much. Picked up F2 Intec Challenge Comps last year, and have not regreted it for a moment. Everything I could ask for in a binding: Light, flexy, no fuss, easy to use, no snow clogging issues, enough rear heel lift and canting adjustment, seem to be strong, and intecs are invaluable when breaking ribs or just not wanting to try and balance when waiting for friends or scoping out lines. I may be trying a metal next year, and the F2's will be my binding of choice.

[Dave*]

Here is the list of plates I own, not all are rideable due to breakage and lack of parts.

Lacroix

Emery

4-5 generations of Burton race Plate

1 generation of Burton Automat ( the heel slipper bail type)

Last generation Trident Sports Rattraps(a few canucks will remember these)

TD1s standard bails

TD2s standard bails

Voile split board plates

Oxygen "step in" a funky metal catch that is on toe bail , allows step in

capability, havent ridden em yet they came on a board I wanted,

will try em out someday.

Now I am a "clydesdale" class rider at around 230lbs and I have to say feel/ride wise my favorites are the burton race plates ( especially the carbon)

-I like the bit of flex

-I like the single layer interface to board ( less monkeying to adjust or swap

the binders)

-easy to modify

-light weight

-very few parts

-large foot print on the board , unlikely to toast a board

Having said that I admit to destroying a few bails both heel n toe and to shearing off a few M6s at the block tower plate interface,

My next favorite is the old Trident Rattraps, about half way in stiffness between the race plates and TD2s with yellow and suspension kit, They are all metal and once set up for boot length very idiot proof, I wish I had bought a bunch before Trident stopped making them, and they were a local Vancouver company to boot.

TD2s , then TD1s , are next in the preferred list, my only complaint is I like a bit of give in my binding, even with yellow and a suspension kit I just cant get truly happy for my varied terrain riding, I would like to see Bomber add an outward "bow" shape to the toe bails and maybe elastomer kits to go between all the layers including the bail block top plate interface which is what I did to my TD1s to make them rideable. My next change would be a much stronger bail spring, then the toe bail be made a similar profile to the burtons for less toe overhang. No flaming thanks its just my wish list.

One thing I would love to see is one of the "major" players in this business come up with a bail retro fit kit for burton race plates , imagine a bomber style bail block and bail that could bolt on to a set of race plates, while we are at it get some one to cook up the old burton aluminum discs in 4 hole,,,

F2 and Phiokkas are on the "to do" list jsut havent come across any at the right price yet.

Dave*

[NateW]

Had Burton somethingorothers, which got all bent up.

Had Nitros, the non-step-in version of what Boardski pictured above, but I kept breaking toe levers, stripping bolts, etc. Plus worse-than-normal base-suck since there's a cavity under the mounting disk. While thinking about buying a third pair for parts I realized it would be cheaper and safer to splurge on Bombers.

TD1 toe-lever style, I could never solve a premature ejectulation problem.

Catek WC toe-lever style, same problem.

TD1 stepins, no complaints, still using them on my backup board.

TD2 stepins, no complaints, they are on my primary board.

Catek OS stepins, a little finicky to get set right and keep tight, but I like them. Might put them on my primary board soon just to play with the canting...

The stepin system on the Nitros pictured above has always intrigued me. It seems simpler and possibly more reliable than the Intec scheme. Bummer about having to reach all the way down to release them, but I'd put up with that. Have broken one Intec pin and that scares me just enough to want something more robust.

Mostly I just want Bomber to start making Intec-compatible Trench Digger Heels. With metal frames and unobtanium pins.

[dshack]

I like the simple, flexy, low-down f2/raichle intec design, but I can't stand how annoying it is to mess with the canting and lift. I'd love to see a "bomber slim," a minimalist plate with the canting done under the toe and heel receivers, but with a full complement of slick, machined shims. Also switch the intec toe bail to a bomber-style position adjustment, rather than the single philips screw.

Basically, take the best parts of the simplest bindings out there, and make them more slick. It seems like the basic plate-connecting-two-blocks-with-lift-and-cant-under-each design has been done for so long, by so many people, that there can't still be anyone you need to ask about using it.

Another idea: what about putting two set-screws on each toe/heel block? You'd get the adjustability of cateks, without having to deal with the weight of the "power plate".

[AccidentalChef]

I'm using Catek OS1s right now, but I'd like a second set of bindings so I can take a couple of boards to the hill ready to ride. I think I'll probably pick up some TD2s for next season, and figure out which binding I like best from there.

[rwmaron]

Started on Burton Race Plates; never had any problems but went to a pair of F2 Intec Challenge Comps this year for the step-in capability and haven't looked back......

[BadBrad]

dshack, I agree. It would be nice to have a lightweight, low profile, simple binding that could be easily set up for any desired cant & lift. For me, it should also have some flex, preferably a progressive flex.

I have 2 generation of Burton race plates, and I like them, but cant/lift options are limited and kind of a pain. I have 3-degree cant/lift wedges that will only work with 3D inserts, and I have 7-degree wedges that will also work with 4x4. I find 7-degrees generally too much for me. Burton also has those nylon shims that you can put under the heel/toe blocks to add some lift and/or cant, but again the options are limited. If you want to add some cant you also have to add lift. If I want some heel lift with a little inward canting I can shim the heel block, but then the toe block canting is different from the heel block so that the boot sole is being torqued. There's enough give in the bails that a little difference in cant between heel and toe is probably okay, but I'm afraid to do too much. If I also shim the toe block for cant then the heel lift is negated unless I add more shims under the heel block, which increases the chance of a failure. The shims don't make full and solid contact between the binding and heel/toe block, so the chance of shearing a block mounting screw is increased.

I like the TD2 design for cant/lift options because you can adjust cant and/or lift pretty much anywhere you want. To get the full range of options for experimenting, though, you need to buy the 0, 3, and 6 degree bases. I recentlly bought a used set of TD2 step-ins to try out, and bought some extra bases so that I have a pair each of zero-degree and 3-degree bases. I'm afraid that I'm going to miss the low-to-board feel and flex of the Burton plates, though. I can add more flex to the TD2 with a suspension kit (whenever they become available again), but that also adds some lift, and I like the feel of being close to the board.

As far as step-in, I started with Burton rat traps. They always had a lot of misfires and I generally had to manually push the lever to make sure they were fully engaged, so I gave up on them and got regular race plates, and it is just as fast to bend down and latch the toe bail. I have ridden with guys with Intec and I am generally clipped in as quickly as they are, and I have seen a couple of premature Intec releases, which is pretty scary. However, I can also see where the step-in convenience would be nice and result in a lot less bending over, which is nice, especially as our guts get bigger. :)

[brice540iit]

i have 2 pairs, on of them has 10 years on it....not one part ever failled

[Dave ESPI]

I've only been on 3 bindings to date.

Burton "rattraps" - I don't like the way the platic flexes when I really pressure the board, (and I fear a blow out)

SNOWPRO "Race" - I blew out the heel cup plate riding the steeps agressively, TWICE..... (so I got rid of them) I don't need a busted leg due to equipment failure... I'll accept my own error though.

Bomber "TD-2" - I esently have only one pair of them, and plan on getting a second. I had an issue earlier this year with the toe pail unclipping after comming down off a roller and getting some air under the board and stomping the landing, but luckily I felt the back foot loosen, so I managed to slow and stop the board and re-hook my toe in. The Bombers have a nice feel to them, and are well made. BLUE LOCTITE IS YOUR FRIEND !

snug screws, and ride all day :)

[rikytheripster]

Do a POLL! do a POLL!, a little hyperactive I know but still.

Would do one myself but duty calls......

[AK in PA]

I'm 5'6"-ish and 185#, love to freecarve, and don't race. Up until a few years ago, I rode '92/93 vintage Burton race plates. Never had a problem with them, but always wished they were stiffer. Finally stepped up to TD-2 step-in's when they debuted and love them. World's more support and responsiveness, much easier to get in and out of, and I don't get tossed if I screw up or hit rough terrain. The TD's are ultra beefy to the point that I cringe and count my blessings when I think about my days on the old Burton plates. I also love their simplicity. The ONLY thing that I'm not wild about is that you're locked into a specific cant disk when you buy them, so experimenting is expensive. I bought another used set of TD-2's this season for another board. (Thanks, Neil. ) Those have different cants, so between the pair, I found a combo I really like. Just need to get a couple new disks now to set both up the same...