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What is your binding of choice.....


waypastfast
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I am interested in getting people's feedback on what bindings they are currently running, what they had before and why they are riding the bindings they are currently on. I am on catek's and burton race plates but want to see what people think of the bomber's or F2's or any of the other limited options we have. I ideally want to make all my boards one binding manufacture for ease of interchanging parts, but want some insight from other riders before i proceed. Thanks for all input!

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I am ~210lbs, ride about 50 days per season, and typically ride two or three of my boards each day. I have ridden F2's, TD1's, SnowPro's and TD2's.

I currently own four pairs of TD2's. They are simple and durable. I've never had an issue. I love the e-ring design and definitely notice the difference between the different durometers.

I have considered Cateks but have a fundamental issue with the central bolt/nut (yes, I am sure that I am just over thinking it). I do not like the photos I have seen where the nut loosened up and the center plate was destroyed as the cant/lift screws destroyed the dimples.

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Started with Burtons, I kept snapping bails :mad:

Switched to Catek World Cup step-ins

I wasn't happy with the heel engagement of the Intec pins into the heel receiver (it wasn't as smooth as it is with TD2).

I now ride 100% TD2's only. For me the TD2 system is easier to set up,

easier to re-create your lift and cant angles and there are less parts.

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Ridden most of em - Catek and Bomber are the only ones I trust given my weight and riding style. I gave up on Catek early last year - I was spending way too much time tweaking the angles...With the TD2's I just set them how I like them and I'm done. Just make sure everything's tight and that's it.

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I've had my Burton race plates since 97 and have never had a problem or any compaints. I'm 6"-2", 240, so not for lack of crankin on them. They're the only hardboot bindings i've ever owned, so I don't have any frame of reference, but I have no reason to believe they won't continue to rock.

The only thing that ever happened was I started with the yellow freeriding pad insert on the front foot and it got mangled from cranking on it. So I switched the from that to the harder red race pad and the back is still on the softer yellow on the adjustable cant plate and it's been fine.

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I started with some Burton Performance in 1998 (added some aluminium disks in 2003), then got some Catek OS1 in 2005 (used) and some Catek WC in 2006 (used), both short plates. I keep the Performance for my old Burton Air, I use the OS1 on my Nitro freecarve deck and used the WC on the Alp that I got last year and sold this year. No issues with any of those 3, but I don't carve as hard as some here do.

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I've used Burtons, TD1's, F2's, and TD2's.

My favorite are the F2's (puts on flame suit). I don't know why but I'm thinking they are more suitable for me because they have a little flex in them.

TD2's are awesome though and it's nice just having the one 5mm hex for the entire binding.

I never had any issues with my Burton bindings but I only weigh ~170lbs.

So for me it's F2 >(barely) TD2 > TD1 > Burton

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I started with Burton Variplate's (5-hole pattern) and Emery surf's in 89, then moved to fritchi/nitro plate's and then went back to softies for about 15 years and have recently purchased td2 standards with wider bails for my AT boots. Love the simplicity and durability of the td2's and can't wait to get more time on them.

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Been on hardboots for one season, rode Burton Rat traps. For the most part they were ok. It was nice to step in. The thing that I didn't like about them is how scary they are with their sprung weight. You have to make it a habit of un-setting your bindings before you leave your board alone, lest you go to pick it up and forget about the bindings... Got a couple bruised thumbs that way. And occasionally I'd have a missfire where the bail didn't hook my heel right, but for the most part, if they're adjusted right they work pretty good. Just picked up some performance si's. (received them monday in fact...) So I'm lookin forward to tryin those out (besides in the livingroom). They feel a little heavier than my rattraps, but I think they're a little more solid of a binding. And beside that, it won't eat your finger cause there's nothing to "set".

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All the bindings I've used in order of preference:

TD2 SI

Catek OS1 SI

TD2 Std

Burton Race Plate

Catek WC Std

F2 Intec (old version of Carve RS from looks of it)

Nitro Razor

These days I'm using only TD2 SI with Suzukas, blue BTS, mostly the "new yellow" e-rings. suspension kit for my one metal deck w.o. topsheet. If I spent more time in gates I would probably re-evaluate based on what experienced racers have said here of but I spend very little time in gates and the TD2s make me smile all day long as a freecarver/freerider.

I am mindful of what Bordy and others are saying about things like TD2s on metal boards, however I am also mindful of what the manufacturers of said boards have told me and haven't gone to Home Depot yet to buy lexan to fashion an intermediate layer. But I might, jury's still out on that one.

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Currently using (all intecs):

TD2s - Co-winner

F2s - no comment

Cateks - Co-winner

Raichles - way flexy

I enjoy riding on all of them. Plus I have to agree with the folks who think it is the driver not the equipment.

However if I had to choose just one to facilitate mounting on different boards I'd go with either Bombers or Cateks.

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OS1's I bought a set of SnowPro Race's but got a DEAL on my Cateks and ended up selling the snowpro's last season...I admit I play'd the adjustment game for the first year but I've been at roughly the same angles and lifts for 2 years. I want to try TD2s but I don't have the money to switch.

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OS2s all the way.

never had a problem. i use the D3 rubber under all my bindings and i find the ride excellent. i also love tinkering and greasing and tightening moving parts, and they offer me the most adjustability. i also like the idea of metal more than plastic. if i had a choice, everything would be metal, even boots.

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Last year: F2 Race Titanium (90%) and Catek OS1 (10%) - both standard bails. I plan to spend a lot more time this season on my Cateks.

I started with Burton Carrier, Burton Race, Catek World Cup, Catek OS1 step-in, X-Bones step-in, Catek OS1 standard, then F2 Race Titanium standard.

Never tried TD1, TD2 or OS2.

I like the F2 standards best of all, nice combination of flex and stiffness :AR15firin

--Hugh

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TD2, natch.

Started on Burton Variplate, then Burton Race Plate, then TD1, then TD2.

Since going to Bombers, I've ridden the Race Plates twice due to circumstances beyond my control. Both times, I felt like there were rubber bands holding my feet to the board. Very unnerving.

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I have ridden.

Burton: variplate, 5- and 3 hole. every generation of the race plate and all of the step in plat models.

F2 every generation of the binding. All option lifts pad systems etc.

Frichi, Sims, hooger, scott, ride(all metal 2 part, emery (several models and modifications), snowpro, Deeluxe,every model of Catek every Bomber binding (even the toaster and Bishop, with all sorts of lifts and tweaks) Phokkias and severals I am sure I am forgeting.

In a race course F2, on a Hingle plate, I am stoked to try the S-flex and Kessler plate) or F2s on a Poly lifter Plate. You have to be very active as a rider but the rewards are huge. I really love the feel of metal and I think these bindings dealever the power and feed back I want.

I have really liked all burton standard race plate bindings feel but I don"t have the resourse to alway replace parts. They are soft and floppy but with the correct balance again very rewarding.

Now for metal bindings I am going to list only what I have ever broken. Assume I have broken every part of the other bindings.

I Like to ride big stiff boards and some metal and non metal sticks GS sticks with Td2 standards softest, yellow ring and suspension. kit. Thes are great on top of poly lifts also. I once triple stacked 3 suspension kits. ;) I have only ever broken a few bails. or striped out alans. Out of all models.

I really like the flex in Catek Standards but there are a lot of parts and the new bridge one piece works so well that with out the d3 it bends or (bends the board) and it can be hard to swap around, but once you know how to do it is is not hard. the are a bit softer then bombers and have a lot of cant options. I often bend the plate or the disk. Bails also break for for me. And I have double ejected from wc. And striped the threads clear of the mounting screw (I have also striped out the inserts of boards using bomber td1s)

I don't like how intecs move the flex lower on the boot.

I ride the plex plate on all metal boards and almost all none metal boards now. I like the lift and seperation of board feel they proved with f2.

I like the easy ride and increased stabilty of all metal bindings but reall want to be more dynamic then I can in any metal binding.

I do also want to add I think i have seen every part of every modern binding break. not all the little parts but about all the big parts.

I still ride,

F2s

Burtons,

TD2s standard

catek os2

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stepin all the way baby. got burton rat traps in 94-5, still use'm w/my nordica sbh for hiking. the rat traps don't work w/intec heel pins. my raichle's & blax use the old nitro/fritzi/intec's. the mechanism on the plate is tougher & simpler than the retracting pins & cable. BTW if any o'yall got some old style intec's i'll take'm off your hands.:ices_ange

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My TD2 intecs came in the mail today!

I really love the simplicity of setting them up, I don't think a socond board kit is even needed, because it is so simple to set up the bindings. I haven't ever set up or ridden Catek's, but from what I have heard about them, they seem much harder to set up (washers, rubber spacers, cant screws, 4mm and 6mm hex wrenches, etc.). It just seems like more things for me to mess up.:smashfrea It is kind of like technology. No one OS is better than the other, they ar e just different. Bombers are like Apple, they are very easy to use, but do not have as many options, while Cateks are like Linux, there are a lot of options but they are more complicated. I prefer the simpler, more limited option; Hence why I have TD2's and an Apple computer.

...Back to the subject, I have also ridden Raichle X-bone step-ins. After I didn't click in all the way a few times and went over the handlebars (plus a one footed carve:biggthump), I decided never to try intecs again. Then I tried TD2 intecs, and the little slot that slants towards the pin makes it a lot easier to make sure both of the pins are engaged.

I would say that if you had the funds, it is definately worth it to spring for some nice bindings (td2 or cateks), since unlike boards, you don't have to worry about them losing camber or anything like that, and they (should) last you forever.

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TD2, step-in. with UPZ boots -- i love 'em for skiing, too.

EDIT: by the way, ive used Burton bindings (uh... 98 version?) and they were my first experience. not bad, til i started to dislike bending over and hunching and pullin' in the levers to get 'em solid connected.

then got TD2, been a happy camper since.

purchased an old burton 5 holes pattern variplates, to use on my lib tech innercourse. i have yet to experiment on it. its for the sake of being old timer, as well as going retro a lil bit.

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Last year I was running TD2 step-ins with suspension kit.

I also had a pair of Catek OS2s, solid binding. I found that I prefer the ability to fine tune the TD2s for boot fit by using their toe bail adjuster.

I picked up a pair of F2 intec-titaniums and race-titaniums (standard bail) to test this winter. I want to see how I like a flexier binding for my lighter weight.

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I have in my collection

about 17 sets of Burton Plates , of that there are about 4 different generations of race plates, a few generations of carrier plates, some carbon fiber plates, some rental plates, and an old set of automats with the heel shoe horn slipper thing, Love the feel of race plates and the ease of set up, would love to see bomber make a bail retro fit kit for the plate, have fragged a few toe bails and sheared off a few M6s that hold bail block.

About 4.5 sets of TD1 standards from pre spring bail to spring bailed, havent broken anything here, mine are all rubber gasket modded.

2 sets of TD 2s , no probs here like the ride with yellows, got a suspension kit just havent mounted and ridden yet.

1 set of Trident Sports Rattraps (last generation with the cables), bombproof stiiffer than a raceplate, softer than a TD2 yellow, bombproof, bonus for Canadian made.

1 set Voile split board plates, they work wouldnt get to rammy on them though.

1 broken set of Lacroix plates, I killed these off many years back,

1 or 2 sets of old emeries in a box somewhere. have never ridden, they came on some used boards I bought.

Have never ridden but Cateks just look to finicky to set up.

have had to implement a marking tape system , i sometimes forget which set of binders is set up for what boot ( 295/299/303 SB/AF 27/28m)

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I have a couple of generations of Burton Race Plates. I like how they are low to the board compared to a lot of the other makes that raise you way up off the board. I set them flat on the board with just a little front toe lift and some rear heel lift using the plastic inserts under the bail connections.

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