CMC

I might be able to do that Beck!

The Madd Killer strikes back! Was able to do back to back runs comparing a few boards that I personally love for carving. The original Madd 158, Oxess 161, and two prototypes of the Donek Madd Killer 161. Anyone who knows me well, knows how fond I am of the original Madd 158. I’ve logged more days on these boards than I can count—owned 5 originals. This board had my highest ratings for aggressive carving until..the Madd Killer had surfaced. Before we get to talking about the Madd Killer, the Oxess 161 has a fun factor right up next to the Madd 158. Its edge hold is well above average, quick transitions and performs aggressively if given the load. I’m not too happy with the rusted inserts on the Oxess as that made the binding change over a little time consuming. The key with the Oxess is having Marcel make one that has the perfect blend of dampness and pop for your primary riding surface. The first Oxess 161 that he had sent was super lively and had tons of pop but did not fare well on skied off ice conditions. I had him construct the same thing but making it more damp—presto!-- the proper mix was found. Comparing it to the original Madd 158, I’d take the Madd any day over the Oxess as it is more nimble and has better edge hold. Bring on the Donek Madd Killer 161. This board, in its current state, is clearly the winner. While more positive changes are still in the works, I had to come to terms that this board outperforms the original Madd 158. I really never thought that would happen. Its edge hold is beyond crazy, transitions are not just quick but lightning quick, tracks well at speed and will handle any aggressive load put into it. I’m not going to mention any specs other than the lengths. I didn’t want to know for purpose of the testing. The main goal was to ride each and see which would deliver. Catek bindings were used, no plate and I would highly suggest you leave the plate at home. No metal boards here. Donek Madd Killer Original Madd 158 Oxess 161

Devcon 2 ton epoxy will work fine. If you cant get the epoxy into the delam deep enough, use a syringe or slightly heat the epoxy to a liquid state and allow it to roll in. Clamp well, wipe excess epoxy and let sit to cure.

I think a make up artist and some hair dye for the next vid would be good.

The answer is quite simple. Use the skis to make an outside bench. Put the boards under your bed.

Those certainly are some good points to keep in mind. My heels broke when the boots were within a year old.

This is a very common issue. I have broken the heel shelf off of many DeeLuxe boots--Indy and Suzuka models.

If I were still single I'd ask you to share some of those numbers..haha actually Id probably have a good bunch of my own.:lol:

I agree with you Snowmatic. That is why the Donek Maddkiller is being developed. It will reign on days where it is icy (actually it already does) but is still under testing to make it even better.

I agree, it hurts the eyes. I let the clip play as someone who had no clue was walking by my desk. They stopped and looked.... then said that is an awkward style. While they are carving, they certainly don't get any style points.

I remember Beckman from the beginning of time, teaching riders how to ride effectively on efficient hard surfaces of the Northeast, the surfaces that have a lesser margin for error. I saw him train those who would go onto the the Swatch Boardercross team and then some. Beckman is the "man". Thanks for your input Beckman, well appreciated.

Keep stretching. Probably have very tight hip flexors.

Yea..plate was ok. It didnt tickle my fancy. Felt like one of my skate slalom decks with jacked risers.

Cold temps next week..

Lowrider, My apologies if you were offended as the post was not made to offend anyone or directed at anyone. To even think that a plate could..well..nevermind. Dont turn it into something it's not. I could say that your screen name is offensive to some but I wont go there. The main thing is that we all have fun as I can not take that away from anyone regardless of their side cut.

I have not been impressed with what I have seen except from a select few.

The new side cuts were bred for racing not free carving and tend to want to turn down the fall line more so than across. If your style is more like a racer when you carve than it may be better for you. I can still make my 9.1m sidecut radius out carve a newer radius board. Plates are gay.

If you are just carving, dont buy a Kessler. You dont need it and yea the new sidecuts suck ass for freecarving. You dont need a plate either.

You could spend the rest of your life reading reviews and then the rest of your after- life deciding upon what reviews are legitimate based on the riders actual skills. I remember once, a rider had made a review on the Madd 158(Original) and said that it sucked (for lack of better words). He talked the lingo, his review sounded legit for anyone that may have read it. The reality was that he sucked and his skills could not maximize the boards potentials or make it work correctly. Make it easy on yourself, go American-- Donek. Should you decide elsewhere, I'm sure you will still be happy as most of the decks made today will perform better than the old stuff--99 percent of the time.

I had that board. Fun while it lasted. Hang it on the wall and get something current. Was a great board for its time.

Great pics Hilux and thanks for the work and effort taking these shots.

What were you using for bindings? After owning more original Madds than JG, MM and MB combined, I can say that I have never ripped a binding off the board while riding. Your long screws were probably not long enough. Helicoil could work, yet I've done successful operations by drilling through the base and replacing any bad brass inserts with non brass inserts. Good luck.

Reverse push on the ladder through the slot it is in on the shell. When you get to the square part of the ladder that appears as though it will not fit through the slot, grab hold of the cuff and bend it so it arcs at the slot. The slot should then gape wider and allow the strap to easily slide out. Done with the liner removed from the shell and no heat or screw driver. If you need more access, use an allen wrench or the boot allen to loosen the piece with the slots.

Grandmaster Wizard.