terekhov

any givers?

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/oakley-primed-ski-bib-overalls-waterproof-for-men~p~3440f/?filterString=search~oakley-primed%2F&colorFamily=02&merch=-3440F

anyone want to part with any?

rumors (sorry, in russian) on official russian fed site: http://fgssr.ru/novostj.aspx?id=1921 3PSL _in addition_ to usual 2PSL. at glance I'm failed to find details on official FIS site, but FGSSR claims it's there.

Siberia? ;) http://maps.google.ru/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=%D0%B0%D0%BA%D0%B0%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%BA+%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BE%D1%81%D0%B8%D0%B1%D0%B8%D1%80%D1%81%D0%BA&g=Akademgorodok,+Novosibirskaya+oblast,+630000&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Akademgorodok,+Novosibirskaya+oblast&ll=54.837131,83.097668&spn=0.028323,0.055189&t=h&z=14

seems like you gonna thank russian federation for that. placed PSL for vote and pushed to win and - you know? - PSL is not a pair but trio event. seems like epic fail.

there's no problem with hardboots on/in ANY snow conditions - if you met some required conditions: basic skills + extensive experience. if some equipment allows you to trade in those for some simple way in: good to you, but don't blame equipment - it's only you :)

stay at Chamonix (good people oriented), rent a car and ride around: Chamonix valley (extreme terrain oriented! some local guide + good snow cover can make it accessible on another level!), Verbier, Courmayor, Aosta (carve oriented). if 200+km car ride is not a problem - you can visit Val'd'Isere and all of espace killy - huge different terrain, night life & luxury oriented )

but you need to consider the fact that wedges put enormous tearing stress on flange of t-nuts used under the base plate. so if you use wedging - you definitely need to inspect those t-nuts once in a while, and replace sooner than later. learned it the expensive way) flat-footed (thanks WB:) for some years since then

old siberian wisdom (for dry continental snow): clean off all of wax by diesel fuel, and ride completely dry p-tex - nothing will slide better than that on such ****ty cold flakes

in a millisecond after: head stratos pro in td2 std (all 4 bails became deformed), 3yrs ago. moved to f2 race ti bindings for times to come - too sturdy and not-springy bails on td2 and cateks move all of clamping elasticity by deforming boot shell plastic, but f2 bails (made from spring steel, older 5.5mm variety) is doing that work. scary experience with happy end (2 days off snow, and in f2 race ti's ever since).

agree! after reading your book (yes?:) - I've made exercise from it, which I call "magic stick" (in russian of course). I'll try to elaborate: visualise some virtual stick which goes through both hip joints and prolongs to the side of hips. take this stick by your hands, attached to board. this stick usually must be perpendicular to your stance, i.e. front foot angle. make some sit down-up to internalize this stance a little. make this stick felt, so you can manage to move your hips by virtually PUSHING on that stick. and... let go carve some turns. your ONLY isolated movement when you crossing the board between apexes is to use that stick to cross your butt over the board. be careful! you can make your overdamp coiler rebound like pogo stick, if you make this movements expressfully! )) I _love_ that control now on grooms. but in the mixed snow "ride from snow up" mantra works better for me.

not more than arc theta sv and lot of other. taiga - as I understand - made work clothing mostly, and it is nothing which I ever saw made sturdier than avalanche bibs (older version). no better photo than http://www.e1.ru/fun/photo/view_pic.php/o/e969f8c91cfccc6a8732cac3136bdaa7/view.pic

https://www.taigaworks.ca/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=161 heard here on BOL, bought taiga' avalanche bibs (older version, same as snow pants above but bib'ier:) - and they are great. newer version of avalanche seems flimsier, and price climbed high through 2 years, but overall - great durable pants

:) just reread my post - english is not my native language, so I sound pretty harsh - sorry for that. nothing personal at all) too much opinionness come from different backgrounds, so I state mine: 90kg, pretty aggressive moguls carver in hardboots almost all of the time) I drive board strongly with feet - so idea is to ride noboard-style, with even pressure of foot' sole against the board at all times - not using extra support of boots+bindings to leverage board controls, just to give some protection and controllable corrections in case of unanticipated undulations in snow. after some 100-200 days of relearning to foot-driving technique - I came to conclusion that boot's stiffness not so significant anymore. BTW - now I ride mountaineer's plastic boots (lowa civetta) in flow's in backcountry, and when I try this for the first day on slopes - I've done BX course on them! )) when people start to say that hard softboots is SOFT comparable to hardboots - it's almost definitely that they regularly use boot uppers to leverage his boards.... sorry again)

soft low hardboots is no resemblance of modern softies at all, imho. and modern stiff softies (stiff softboots i.e. northwave reset or burton driverx + stiff bindings i.e. nidecker900 or flow c-xfr (sp?)) is comparable by overall stiffness to my softened-modified head stratos pro + f2 race ti w/5.5 bails please don't fool yourself and DO compare it yourself 124 w/tflex + some flexy plates (and I think it is a bad idea to use 124 with td/cateks due to possible lateral collapse of the rather soft shell on frontal impact..) is comparable to modern low-grade softboots PLUS low-grade bindings all in all, topic starter seems like took my side in taking narrower and hardboot-specified board to ride in hardies. BTW - I love rossignol undertaker 198 with hardboots! 23cm waist, 13.5m radius swallowtail is definitely easier on legs with hardboots. not so with f2 elim.ltd - it is a curse to ride it with hardies on anything but softer grooms

imho modern hardboots works best at 50+ angles, and definitely sucks at 40-: you get too much of too exact lateral leverage over the board and it is easy to overpower it on every occasion. and definitely it a bad idea to use hardboots on too wide boards for looong mellow carves in my mind using hardboots with softboot-waisted boards might be considered as fallback option - when you need to try hardboots for the first time, or cannot bring softboot setup (boots + bindings) with you to the mountain but can bring some freeride deck and at last get some powder, etc. it is definitely sucks as a go-to setup to build. last year when I ride all over the Alps for the 3 weeks in UBER-different conditions - I rode Head Stratos Pro + F2 Race Ti + Donek Axis 182 (old, softened, with decambered nose due to age, and 87deg polished edges:). this setup almost shines in anything but ice, including 1m powder in avalanche-prone drop-coloirs. moral: if you go with hardboots - go with hardboot-specified boards too. or stay in softies - it's fun too!! and break all rules, sometimes, too ))) after some overnite lone backcountry, but in all other cases - pogo secret spot definitely SHOULD NOT be driven by hardboots..

if you cannot setup your board as on Jack's foto: with angles 45 and over - I mean that you cannot set it up without major underhang of toe and heel - you will have severe underleverage to make edging on harder slopes - which gave inability to stay in central balanced stance and possible shin-bang because you will need to leverage edges through boot upper-calfs. so: board width, angles, boot size - it is all related, i.e. board width _determines_ angles for specific boot size. so simply said - you cannot stay in perfect stance with 25mondo hardboot on 25cm board. it's no problem in deeps, but on harder slopes and in moguls it is a very bad idea. want to ride everywhere in hardboots? just use suitable board, with waist 22 and narrower...

I've decided to go with seems like ultimate winter cam: http://www.vio-pov.com/products/pov_15.php

didn't mind that at all, but I live where all stuff which I wanna try must be bought beforehand by me, so mental trying is almost the must for economical causes :) and I _hate_ riding ice, so almost don't need any tools for riding it, and I didn't see the point in riding on stable platform in turbulent conditions - so many slope feedback lost - I almost _feel_ that. but sure I want to try that gizmo. maybe in year or three.... this topic is very interesting viewpoint-mangling, thank you all again!

can't agree more!

jammed together != came regularly in almost-touch in riding dynamics and 2nd is common

1) sure I see. 2) sure if you want to ride over isocline surface regardless of actual slope. I like to play with actual slope with most effective (light+simple) setup possible. so if you cannot describe what is LOST in your riding due to this features - it is only religious claims, not? because personally i have no problems in my riding which this plates claim to solve - I only state that if this gadget claimed as universal top-of-the-game - as titanal was - it is bad thing for progress, because considerable part on newbies is from consumerist cultures and view riding as of unedning path of consuming yet one miracle carve-enabling ultimate feature. it is a road FROM freedom... when people talk about new tech - I, personally, want to see not only benefits and ROI analysis, but all tradeoffs and points when and where going without it will give better overall experience. it is THAT reviews that matters, not praises from ultimate converts. hope I can describe this philosophy in understandable terms, coz I'm not an english-speaker....

I just get f2 silent-flex last year for those knee-breaking icy days - and yes, it works! but.... I rode it in different conditions, and can say that 1kg of weight is something to which I cannot habituate, and usual softness of conditions here in Siberia is definitely not favoring this BOILER-plate my personal view on that is Occam's razor view: the simpler the better, but not simpler. so when condition calls - ice & refrozen spring conditions - YES, I definitely don't want to ride without it. conditions GREEN: and I definitely don't want this drag, especially in lovely moguls and tighties for everyday leisure rider it's sure be next NICE GADGET TO HAVE. hardboot boards setup already came over $5000 (not counting arcteryx ultimate carving gloves:) - so another grand for work of beauty is out of question. too pity that it became norm :(

you can definitely can order those anywhere in the world. it's e-commerce, heard that? :)