Cthulhufish

Hmm... My inclination is to support the board with a rod under each contact point, stack weights between the bindings, and create weight vs deflection curves. Not sure if relative deflection or absolute (more camber means a more negative initial value) would be more useful. Probably only good for comparing similar camber profiles, but most of us like traditional camber anyway. Regardless, the thing to do is probably to measure a bunch of boards a bunch of ways, ride them all, then assess which methodology produces results that feel right subjectively. E.g. does it matter if you stack weights at the center vs at the binding mount points?

Burton EST tool is my favorite for Phillips screws. It's a lump of metal in your pocket, but not a pointy one at least. SG plate bindings use one size hex head and come with an L key which fits under the removable cover of the binding. I wrapped mine in some electrical tape to prevent it from rattling. Pretty awesome I think. Still searching for a multi bit system I like for splitboarding. Cycling tools seem like the way to go.

Considering cell signal issues making it hard to stay in touch with people on the mountain in previous years, how do people feel about walkie talkies/FRS radios? I'm willing to bring mine.

Are there, though? Most snowboarders ride gear that is notably lacking for carving performance. Sure, you can carve well with it, if you're skilled. But that is precisely the problem. It's awfully hard to practice the fundamentals with a board that demands expert skills to get it to carve well. Discouraging beginners from using gear appropriate for what they're trying to do is doing them no favors.

I may or may not be guilty of looking up gear by searching by "Price: Descending".

The most important thing is fit. Beyond that, it's preference. Most people don't like riding 10/10 flex gear in powder, but I don't think it's a bad setup. I've ridden powder with Driver Xs and (old version) Cartels and been happy with it. I think carbon fiber bindings would have been a bit much in powder though. I tend to think of medium-stiff flex gear as the safe choice for all-round equipment. I'm curious what other people think, considering this is an alpine focused forum.

No change from last year for me so I'm being lazy and not taking a new picture. 25th anniversary Arbor Element, 2019 Orca, 2021 Jones W Solution, and a custom Donek Voyager. Got sidetracked and didn't get around to ordering a Donek Flux last season but planning to get that done next week. Anyone have replacement recommendations for an Orca? I like the geometry in powder but not so much the build quality. My big constraint is being all of 125lbs. Edit: I'd also appreciate sidecut radius advice for the flux. The biggest I've ridden is my 9m Voyager, which seems a little on the small side. Apparently the default for a me-sized Flux is 7.5-9m, but I'm considering asking for closer to a 10m average (not sure how that works with variable radius).

My current kit is fixed angle side guides, an adjustable base guide, a fine ski file, DMT diamond stones (black, blue, red, green), gummy stones for deburring and rust removal, a sidewall cutter, and wet sandpaper for smoothing the sidewalls. Don't forget to smooth your sidewalls. I'll probably get a coarser ski file if I ever have to work a completely unsharpened edge again, but otherwise I think a fine file is aggressive enough. I have multitools, but I only use them on trips, since they're much more compact than a set of fixed tools.

The conservation of angular momentum model, net force model, and potential energy model can all be used to explain aspects of how pumping works. All three models require simplifying assumptions that just aren't true in practice, but they are still useful models for explaining concepts behind pumping. In reality, all of those effects and more apply simultaneously.

The physics is straightforward. You crouch into the front of the roller to reduce the normal force pushing you backwards, and you extend into the back of the roller to increase the normal force pushing you forwards. If the advice to stand over the top and crouch at the bottom worked, I suspect it's simply a matter of a different way of timing the same movement. If you start crouching at the bottom and start standing at the top, that's pretty much the same as crouching into the front and extending into the back.

Some people are going to freeze or panic no matter what. Some people won't. Some people are in between, and they're the ones "don't panic" is important advice for. Training can help tilt the scales, but I'm not sure how that could be done short of throwing people into tree wells. Training in avoiding tree wells and partner rescue seems more beneficial. Hands in wrist straps are also a hazard in avalanche terrain for similar reasons.

I just tell people that it's an alpine board.

Depending on the exact setup, ski touring boots and plate bindings can give you better edge control than any soft boot setup and better shock absorption at the same time. Sounds like you'd enjoy that sort of setup. In my opinion, ski touring boots can have a ride feel closer to stiff softboots than to alpine snowboard boots. Also, they're more comfy to walk in than stiff softboots! Which shouldn't be a deciding factor (I do willingly subject myself to alpine boots), but it is a nice plus. I think binding availability is a bit of an issue. I like the way Phantom M6s ride, but they don't seem very durable. They are for splitboarding not resort riding after all. I haven't tried one of the puck mounted splitboard bindings on a solid board. There's also SG's plate binding, which can be ordered with a heel bail for ski touring boots. They're really expensive though. And I have yet to try plate bindings that aren't in some way obnoxious to adjust. As for saving money... It might not work out that way. Hardboot snowboarding gear tends to be more expensive. And while the shells might last a while, you're more likely to need boot work than with softboots, the liners will still wear out and need replacing, and the shells might not actually last that long. Ski touring shells weren't designed for snowboarding, and it seems not uncommon for the shells to develop cracks due to the extra forward lean and flexing snowboarders tend to subject them to.

Oh, forgot to mention: VC-3 has MEK in it, so it is not plastic safe until it cures. It's safe for most snowboard uses because you thread the fastener after the VC-3 cures.

That was an extremely close call. Just a minute or two later and the outcome might have been worse.

Ah, gotcha. To be honest I've never really thought about carving in terms of styles, just whatever seems to work for me for a given situation.

Japanese audio. The video technically has English subtitles, but they aren't useful. Summarizing, it's heavy, and Saitou had some boot out issues, but he seemed to like it. He said it makes front-back movement really easy.

Don't forget the $3k season pass. Ski Co seems to be focusing on "exclusive" experiences with their new Aspen-X brand. Now you can pay a few hundred bucks to stand on snow and drink overpriced wine outside the Sundeck. Anyway, I like Ajax for the steep mogul runs, not the carving. And we have been dipping in and out of Spring weather lately, so the snow quality varies a lot.

Looks like you're standing tall through the transitions and (sometimes) crouching into the carves. This is something I've been working on recently. On steeper slopes, try crouching down as you enter the transition then extending your legs as you exit. That'll let you enter the turn much quicker, which will help you avoid going over speed at the bottom of the turn. Keeping your legs more extended (though still bent) is less demanding on your leg muscles, which is especially noticeable as you go faster. And all of the above makes it easier to make tight carves at speed, which makes it easier to hold carves until you're going perpendicular to the fall line or even a bit uphill, which further helps with speed control.

I like that zip tie solution a lot and would probably use that instead of thread locker. If I did use threadlocker, I'd use Vibratite VC-3 if it can be disassembled, and whichever VC-x is compatible with the plastic if not. VC is nice because it's air cured and works by being gummy, so it's safe to use around plastics, and there's no seal to break if you adjust the fastener later. It's a little trickier to apply than anaerobic threadlockers.

I'll be there.

I got one warm up lap in before my legs gave out on me. Definitely over did it. It was fun riding with everyone when I got the chance! I look forward to doing it again, and if anyone is hanging around the area, I'll still be here next weekend.

That video helped me a lot. I'd also like to add that springs matter (if you have them). I've been really struggling with standing the board up on the heel side, and a minute worth of tightening preload nuts did more for my heel side carves than hours of practicing technique. I feel silly for not messing with the springs in my boots sooner.

Slow start for me today . I'll be headed over to Snowmass shortly.

I ran into the group at Snowmass. It sounds like people are going to Highlands tomorrow morning? If so that's where I'll head. Just a heads up: Highlands has pretty poor cellular reception. Actually, does anyone have radios? I'll bring mine if so.