daveo

On the 951, does anyone know whether the bolt thing that the springs sit around is a custom part or off the shelf? I'd like to try one with 1cm longer springs for more forward travel just for the sake of experimenting. Usually my experiments fail.

Send me an offer. I'm a reasonable guy. I mean look at my profile photo. Even have a spare F2 lift kit that can go with this.

I'm switching to a different binding. Bought new for 2019 and were used on my Oxess SXR182 for exactly 20 (half-ish) days in 2019. They haven't been ridden since. Details: Size large Colour white 2 installed lift kits 4 cant wedges $180 shipped. Would go spectacularly with this amazing Intec conversion kit which may or may not also be sold by me

Liar, you can read it clearly. Always been a fan of the F2 Shredster.

New Crab Grab Shark Teeth stomp pad for 21/22. Keeping with the black on black theme. Couldn't be more true.

@Skahw you might like the bx board

LOL! Goon. Time to move to Australia I think. You'll fit right in. Nah it's glass as in fibreglass. My understanding from talking to Marcel is that Oxess' softer boards use glass construction because the prepreg carbon top or titanal top will stiffen it too much. Radius on the #17508 is huge, that'd be for a BX course that has quite large radius turns I think. Might not be user friendly. From what I understand about Oxess BX boards, the radius will turn a little bit bigger than specified if comparing it to other boards (don't quote me, but i've read that multiple places). I think going for a 12m radius would be good I guess. Maybe others will have a different or better recommendation. You know what ... maybe email Marcel and tell him what you are after and ask him for a recommendation from his sale list because you want to try his boards without paying the high price for a custom. Every Oxess board is custom and hand made. There is no large production facility, just a small workshop. I have a Contra on the way To join keep my 2 Oxess company. I've bought many boards from Bruce. The only two brands I buy now are Coiler and Oxess. I trust Kessler with my life, also. Agree with your assessment of #20426, although the radius is still on the bigger end, especially if you've never used a BX board before. This board is probably newer than the others. You can ask Marcel the reason and he will tell you. These boards in the sale section have all been used for testing or prototyping or something like this. Some are brand new and some are used more than others. But don't take my word for anything. I know nothing.

Well, maybe for world cup athletes, but for scrubs like me it probably wouldn't make a difference haha. Elim is a great board man, rest assured! Plus, it is German! (assuming you're German, this may be appealing) I think a splay of about 15 degrees between your front and rear boot is nice at softboot angles. Depends on what works for you. I don't think 27/21 would feel comfortable, though. I think I rode at 33/21 and it was really pushing the limits of what my boots could handle in terms of lateral stiffness (burton driver x).

Worth imo. Don't think this is true. But it might very well be unecessary. As your angles increase above say 21degrees-ish you start to lose leverage over your edge in softboots. In saying that, the last time I rode softboots, I was at 33 front I think. Many people stiffen their softboot laterally to run higher angles. But as you go higher, you also lose the advantage softboots have. It's a good idea. You'll need to talk to Marcel to discuss that. A new Oxess is EUR1600, so even though EUR513 seems like a lot of money, it wouldn't even cover the raw material cost, let alone labour or depreciation on equipment involved to manufacture the board. Off the shelf options like the F2 Elim will always be cheaper and are great, though. #210185 looks particularly nice, but at EUR948, it may well be out of your budget.

Woops gotta clear my sh*t.

He's riding 9deg rear at the moment. Can you calc it?

@Skahw Found a technical engineering diagram that may be of use to you. Obviously you'd replace the hardboots with your softboots.

Haha was waiting for that. I'm trying to subliminally strayanise the forum mate. Soon every second word will be F's and C's and no one will even have noticed it happened. Goon: He who drinks goon, usually looks like this:

Just some ideas below: You'd need to go significantly higher to not get boot out. It's easy to test, just strap your boot into your binding, keep the base plate as loose as possible while still being bolted in to the board but still able to rotate the binding on the baseplate with the boot in it. Then get 2 of your favourite boxes of goon and put them on your heel and toe side edge about your bindings (or cereal boxes, or anything that can be used as a guide to sit up against your edge and go vertically up), then rotate your binding until you are between the two guides. SG Soul XT 164 or if you fit maybe a Soul Titan 164 might be what you're after I reckon. It's not so stiff that it's in the race snowboard cross realm of boards. Like I said, though, I know a 45kg Japanese girl riding an Eliminator Carbon 159 who will put most guys to shame (including myself), but not everyone has the skill to carve fast and hard at high speeds on a softboot board, I know I can't. Kind of emasculating, but it is what it is. She's better than me, I accept it. Soul range also has "powder inserts" so you can shift your bindings riiiiight back if you get a big powder day. The nose is more rockered than a bx race board for more all mountain versatility. F2 Eliminator boards have a good reputation for a reason, but like what someone else said, maybe getting the titanal version might be the idea you're after. But Oxess, Kessler will both be better I reckon. Apex, too. Just depends on where your values lie and how much money you want to waste. Also, as a side note, I don't think there has been a person ever that has been unhappy with their custom Oxess or Kessler as long as they have been truthful with the builder. My last build I went from Medium-Hard to Medium stiffness because my knee is no longer that great. Sometimes it is hard to admit that stuff. Well for someone whose ego is huge, like mine, it is.

If you are carving, then you definitely want the wide versions of the board with a boot angle of 9 and size US9. Otherwise you'll have overhang and boot out.

Definitely go the wide version! Check out Apex snowboards, too. They're reasonably priced and close to you.

Then you've never ridden a good custom haha. Which custom boards have your ridden?

@Skahw Bruce at Coiler can make you a custom one for about 800bucks- that'd be my first choice. Or variants of the F2 Eliminator or variants of the SG Soul from @i-carve.com are also both excellent choices. Apex make exactly what you want, too, but shipping might be prohibitive. I wouldn't consider anything else (unless it is an Oxess or Kessler), but there are other boards that I'm sure other people will suggest. Actually, why not post a wanted to buy ad here for an Oxess 163/12m BX board? I'm sure someone is looking to get get rid of one. Your angles are not extremely positive by any means. They're quite reasonable. If they're comfortable, no reason to change. If you want to go higher, you could consider hardboots instead. You start to lose the ability to pressure the edge as you increase the angles further.

Snowboard cross. The turn radius of a bx board generally reflects the particular snowboard cross race course a competitor will be racing on in a given day. In saying that, the eliminator is a great carving board. I know a 45kg Japanese girl who rides a 158 Carbon (I think) who carves better than most (all but a couple) guys I know. Hard to know. The board has a tiny sidecut, personally I wouldn't want to ride something with a sidecut that small, but it is personal preference. Don't think high speed carving on a board with a 7.9m radius is possible. I think initiating a high speed carve with that might feel like being in the nasa centrifuge if the board can actually handle the force being applied. But then again, "high speed" is somewhat subjective. Got a video of you carving down a run?

They have a different design intent. The eliminator is a bx based design that can be used for bx racing and carving if you can handle it and that's reflected in the sidecut and flex pattern. The nidecker is an all mountain type shape. Apples/orange sort of thing.

@javajive May I ask your opinion on the durability of the Stoko K1?

Interesting.

Marcel encouraged me to get a sidecut of 11-14m on a 182cm long board... Just sayin'

I think sidecut depth was being referred to when effective edge is being held constant...

After speaking to Marcel during my last build, his boards are also designed with the same three separate flex zones... Whether or not that means something useful, I don't know.