Eric Brammer aka PSR

That was right after the 'pre-quel Mud Season' the day before!

Maybe..

So, they're ya go...Local and online Help. all Free, from these guys!! Did you see in BST this ; About Perfect, IMHO. for You! Or Not, considering your mass...

Wow.

It depends upon your Reactions! Mine is, 'Slide-on-body, lift edges'! As you Slide, maybe 'touch down' to impart steering or braking. Once 'down' you are no longer anymore in control than a skier who's lost a ski, or a Biker who flipped a Harley. But, Streetluge Racing has taught me that the 'raggedy andy doll' can survive some crazy 'oops' moments! DO NOT Tumble, though! That leads to 'edge-catch' flips (Think, fresh Fish, slapped on the kitchen counter! Not Good!), so sliding out with minimal resistance and jellified muscle input is best. Of course no one can "FORCE YOU TO RELAX!!", but if that becomes your 'go-to' plan, you can walk away from some crazy stuff! The leverage this speed puts on you is intense. I don't counter nor doubt that. But I do think it's an acceptable level-of-risk that can be mitigated by protective gear requirements, and course design that 'looks scary-fast' but is within a 'speed limit' that designers can predict. I'd hate to think we are only able to 'bomb' Blue-square' trails, when I've been diving into Double Diamonds for over 2 decades...

If you buy boots that're 'right' in shell size for you, a "stock/OEM" liner should be decent enough to go 'feel things out with'. A molded-to-you liner is better, IF Done Right (or, it can be much worse, ow), so sourcing a Bootfitter is a decent precaution, but may not be needed. I get it that Ohio isn't chok-a-blok full of Ski Shops, but they do exist in the Mid-West (hills, too, even!) . In 'just' the boots, you've started a long chain of 'If-Then' events, so take things one-at-a-time. There's really good info on boots/fitting on this site, and that's out there for free, so, study.. Many of the voices on this site are experienced, and value their reputations, so you'll rarely get really 'wrong' info, but; there are those variables, and this IS an Individualist's sport.. Try stuff, ask questions, study prior info and past opinion, try stuff again with a tweak, repeat.

Focus on the Boots, first and foremost! Get those to fit 'right', then proceed from there. If your 'all mountain' board is as stiff as an Arbor A-Frame or Donek Nomad, consider just putting plates on that. You'll get a feel for the boots, and bindings, too. As for your 'first' Alpine board, I don't think that a wholly new board is the best thing to grab. At your height/weight, you still want some 'give' to the flex, and going moderately short (162cm-175cm range), with a sidecut in the 9M-to-13M range might be a good idea (unless you ride Out West, then go a bit longer-ish).. Once you KNOW you want to Carve More, you can up the Ante and go with a new board, and maybe stiffer bindings. If it doesn't quite pan out, your 'big investment' will have been the boots. Oh, and the differential between old/new gear will pay for you to pay me to teach ya how (see, win-win going on here!) ;-) ...

Hypothetically, IF 'The Open' had stayed at Stratton, the best spot on the hill for a true DH would be Upper Standard/Rimeline, with maybe 8-to-10 'gates', but a narrow-down S - Chicane mid-hill [possibly banked?] , but staying far enough away from the Lift towers. I'd end it at the mid-mountain lodge (or just above where Frank's + Rimeline intersect ). Nothing under 170CM allowed. Possibly an artificial Roller or two, but not meant for 'airtime', but for a change-of-pitch. I figure that'd be just a tad over 70 mph for the best racers. Back-armor-plates and full-face helmets required. I've bombed this run-set [minus the added features] a few times, and on a Coiler 184cm, it was scary-but-doable; Much more fun on the Safari 205 and not as scary; and it's slower on the Tanker, but a good thrill anyhow. Similar hill profiles abound out West. And, there, the snow is Cush.

Talk to Sean at Okemo, where you can demo an MK. They're in the Base Lodge ski shop, using TD's or sidewinders, but you'll need your own boots (they've 3 pair, total; and not likely in your size). And, if ya want, I'd be willing to put a Tanker under your feet (R/A will hopefully be back next season), which I ride in either softies or with 'low leverage' plates (IE, not with Bombers or Cateks).

The ISF still had rather Burly Super-G events as of '96. You'd see 197cm Prior-Made Sims Burners flying by at 55mph. Then the ISF went bankrupt trying to keep it's sovereignty on local events (They had to go to Court, many times, and had 'won' the Lawsuit, but only to find the FIS/IOC breaking the Court's Orders. This was Deliberate on the part of the FIS, knowing they could pay the fines, and Lawyers, where-as the ISF struggled to pay the Lawyer). At that point in time, Burton pretty much pulled out of Racing, and started to back away from it in The Open Events. They turned their focus on Freestyle, the X-Games, Big-Air, and 'played along' when the FIS started to truly consider how to put on a 'Freekstyle Show'. The Burton-led end-run around the FIS kinda worked, at least from a Marketing-Ploy POV, but it almost snuffed racing in Snowboarding. Oh, and the FIS, being Skiers, are TERRIFIED of clamp-down bindings on a Very Big Board that goes a Mile-A-Minute (They 'Need' Releasables to be "safer"), so they'll probably never let a Wide-Open DH snowboard event ever happen again. I left the ISF (as a Referee/Gatekeeper/Pipe-Park Judge) in mid '95, because I could see the blood on the walls. MY sport was going Elsewhere, and would be controlled (but Not Owned!) by Plankers, and I'd had ENOUGH of their Crap!! To this day, what went down in the lead-up to Nagano boils my blood!!

Franken-binders!

Really?! I am surprised to hear that... The Hot 160, in it's first 2 years, wasn't flat... wow.

So, yeah, that's an intentional base bevel, but a slight one compared to, say, an '87 Cruzer or Performer Elite from Burton! And, hey, even my O-sin 4807 SWT has a 'Vee-hull' nose that dwarfs this curvature...

Years ago ('95-'98), I was in hardshells (Teaching) about 80% of the time. I backed that off to 60%-/-40% by the time I got my Full-Cert (because, some 'hardboot' moves didn't "work" for the Examiners; but I got my L-3 in Hardshells, nonetheless), which was '99-'03. After that, it's been 50/50 on average, but I prefer being in Hardboots (due to fit, and better performance range). I have F#cke@-up feet due in part to wearing steel-toed shoes for a decade, so the Softboots are now more comfy initially, but hurt more by day's end.Muscle-wise, Hardboots wear on me at the knees, but, my knees were Toasty already by '99. Btw, b4 '91 (the 1st 13 seasons), it was Very Mushy Softboots and horrible bindings. So, equipment matters in both performance, and comfort; perhaps in longevity as well. Luckily, now, you can have a decent set-up that works for 5-10 seasons, easily (as long as your feet don't 'warp' like mine have). The big thing to consider is 'what are my local condtions'. If in Utah, ride Softies. In Michigan, run Plates! In New England, match the snow that day...

Keep in mind this, though; Redmond trained for a good four seasons by using a snow-blower to create his own 'backyard' course, from the house roof on one season! I think that's why he had the 'unique' line, he 'played' with variations a-lot! His big airs were graceful, but not 'flawless', though his choice-of-line made up for the 'generic' 4+3 spin/twists (which are hard enough!). I only saw a lack of amplitude, and slight scuff on landing the bigger jumps. I'm not sure he Won outright, but, the last run was 'sweet'!

Corrosion in the hardware (t-nuts or bolts) is a really bad, really CORRECTABLE Failure-Point in every screw-Fore/Aft-adjust Binding I've ever seen!!! All it takes, folks, is $1, per Binding, at the point of manufacture, to Ensure YOU don't get Nixon+Chinese Nickel+Iron version of what's Supposed To Be STAINLESS STEEL of a Hardened Tempur. Sorry, ya'll (especially, you,Jack), but I Didn't Vote GOP, not for 30 yrs., because I GOT IT; Cheap is CHEAP, and IT KILLS. Look at the balcony failure in Witchita, circa '84, Chinese/Nixon (and NO, I WILL NOT SEPERATE those two; Collusion, pure and deadly, and Simple;wrecked our WORLD economy), so CHEAP Via China = YOUR PROBLEM/Inury/death. whichever is a lesser lawsuit... BUY PARTS WITH KNOWING WHERE, HOW THEY'RE MADE! QUIT SUPPORTING WAL-MART's ECONOMIC BASE of CHINA!

All of this, is why I've been on Rad-Air stuff since '94... They'll be back, soon.

One big change has been in the camber shape at the nose, sometimes at the tail as well. 'traditional' camber put an emphasis on using as much camber, as close to the 'start/finish' points of the sidecut's curvature. Flattening the camber a bit at the extremities has given 'modern; boards a more fluid feel into/out-of carved turns. I first saw this feature on my '88 Barfoot, and it, along with slight base bevel, dual cambered-sections, and 3 different sidecuts, were inclusive on my Safari 205 from '88-89 race season (it won the DH/Super-G at the Open). If you look at the edge profile of a newer Pure Boarding decks, you'll see a slight change in the nose curve along the Sidecut (they retain a nearly full-length camber arc) that does a similar thing, letting the rider get Way Over on edge without the nose 'digging' too deep. Older, 'race' boards often were full-on Camber + edge, no 'glide' between edging events... Kinda like Fins were; 'On', or 'Off', in engagement...Unless you were on a Backhill, where, the Fins were In, all the time..

As a board, or ski, cuts an Arc along an edge, one's Center-Of-Mass doesn't follow 'the arc', it instead, moves in a different path, both in terms of an Arc, but also Vertically, in regards to the snow surface. Therefore, if one does NOT move 'forward' along the board as it changes edges, one GETS LEFT BEHIND. An Observation...

Well, I'm sure They've read freecarve postings by now.

Wow. Driving a Porsche, but knows Chevys, real well. Buy GM Stock, then..

I once gave JG (aka John Gilmour) advice, on the phone, at night, on how to fix his highbacks, while I was cooking dinner. Yup, been there, fixed that..

I have stated this many times, but, MY preferences may not apply. But, if you're coming 'from' a 'duck' stance, simply keep your stance width. Then , 'Rotate' BOTH bindings equally Forwards. You're at a 'Splay', or difference in foot angle, that's Working for you. But, the Highbacks, they need to start being gently tweaked as you Increase Leverages put upon them. Two main variables to consider: One is the 'rotation' the highback can be set at in relation to the baseplate. The idea is to try and mimic the board's heelside edge-line. So, move the front highback at the hinge, such that the fore-most hinge is moved inwards towards the board's lengthwise center, while the aft hinge-point is moved closer to the board heel-edge. It varies in relation to binding angles, so use with an eye towards moderation (and, tweakage, even!). The Other is to set the Forward Lean at the best 'balance point' for your heelside carves. Mine, it's with the front a tad more upright than the rear, but, I'm usually tossing my Ass further downhill and lower than other softbooter's would consider Sane. Play with how YOU best Balance in the turn to decide. Bring that Screwdriver! And, even, mark the changes.Set/reset accordingly. My stance, in softies, varies, but stays between 22" and 19", depending on board/mission/vintage (some Olden Boards, 19" is "WIDE"!), and I try to stay at around 21" nominally (Hard or Soft), as with a 31" inseam, that's FAR Enuff for the Swagger to Hang loose. Any Wider, and the Sway would impinge. {ow!} You need to understand this; where you Pressure a Board impacts How It Bends. And a more Diagonal Stance affects more of the Board's edge. This is why I've felt, for 25+ years, that the BEST angles are between 15* and 60*, but with a 'Splay' difference of around 12*-15*, such that you might be at 30*F/15*R, or 18*F/3* R, or 55*F/42*R.; The Diagonals of Pressure Upon the Board; That Matters... But, follow what's comfortable for You; Do Experiment, and change stuff up. I HAD TO, as Boards EVOLVED QUICKER THAN OUR RIDING, but, that Also, made ME Aware that THINGS COULD & DO, CHANGE. So, Change it Up, but know 'WHY' you made a given change..

I was going to invoke the Inca...But, yeah, that'll sink just as well... Try on a Winterstick, circa '76...

So, I want Ya'll to 'consider' how you describe an 'edge' angle... The BASE is Flat, yes? Maybe, but, we'll take that as "likely" (and I'll show ya a Cruzer!) for a 'reference point'. OK, so That's now Canon, set-in stone (but not in Kidwells, nor Joyride EF's). So, FROM THERE, THAT EXACT POINT, you're measuring the 'EDGE ANGLE'? Yeah, from There. OOOHH, alright, so, is it Obtuse, Right [90*], or Acute? Whaaa!? Go BACK, look up "GEOMETRY 101", 9th grade...OOh, yah, THAT Stuff. So, a 'Base Bevel' may be MORE than YOU figured (see, like I noted, the Base may have "EEK", Curves!!, in it!!) Often, now, boards come with a 'Base Bevel', put in IN THE MOLD, then refined on a base grind. IF YOU GRIND IT FLAT, you've taken 4-5 seasons out of the P-tex. Just a NOTE. So, a 'base' Bevel, Edge Detune, is, actually, a Decrease from a 'right angle' norm that we ASSUME is along the board's Edge, BUT, We haven't MARKED NOR NOTED WHERE the 'Bevel' starts in regards to the FLAT-Of-The-Base, against the board's Length!! Have We? Did we? When?, Where?, How?! [I hope You have an Answer, per board, in Your quiver!]. So, there's THAT Issue... I'll let it perkallate , and You can offer references to such... But, what Really Important here is this. The Board's Edge Angle. We assume it's 90*, a Right Angle, upon being made. So, then, from There, what is 'Sharper' mean? I Define it as being 'More Acute' (9th grade, again, damn), where the ANGLE gets Sharper than 90, or Less-Than-Right. Subtract from THERE. Now, IF the board you ride has 'Right Angles, but, also a Base Bevel.[?]. This is what I found in my '91 JoyRide EF. IT CAME WITH a 2* Base-Bevel, 2CM Inboards, and was ALREADY 2* ACUTE, so it had a 4*-from-90*-Edge, FROM THE FACTORY. A True Soft-boot Twin-tip, it gave Me my first-ever Looped-over-itself Carved line. It was 153 CM, with 110cm of edge contact, using Elfgen tongued Softboot bindings, a Burton 9* +3* metal 5-hole cant, and a Nineteen inch stance; I was in Sorel Mc-Kinleys with heel-spurrs added. See, all things being "equal" in "tech", It shouldn't have been THIS GOOD, but, it was GREAT. I attribute this board's comfort level to my Dad's Engineering Mindset, where he Measured the "Base Bevel", and SEPARATED THAT from the 'Edge Angle', to give Me the perspective of BOTH Working for the better in certain attributes of my riding. I could Slay 'ON Edge', yet flip into a Blind-side Nose-roll with ease, and, I Knew Why! Do You?