slapos

It's you isn't it ?

Purchased direct from the factory. I only helped push it across the pond. Amazed by ups door to door service as well.

https://shop.nobilesports.com/nobile-snowboard-2021-n8-ti

Mobile apps these days offer very good options if you want to do something quick. Both QUIK go pro and insta360 mobile app rock. for PC editing i also go with Da Vinci - a ton of tutorials on youtube how to do this if you have the time to spend on it. Definitely worthwhile

I have a full hardboot setup for him. Will see how he will fare - he is 6 yo at the moment, so not going to force it too much. Nobile is one of the top quality manufacturers. They do a ton of OEM manufacturing with swoard and korua being the most notable ones. Boards are camber only and very lively. For the upcoming season nobile has decided not to produce a new raceboard model. Maybe they will come back in 23/24. Only Polish riders rode nobile in the Olympics in Beijing. They have a lot of stock though, so if you are interested in getting one from Poland I can help you with that. Let me know when you try it - I am curious about your opinion!

Made with Polish hands! Your swoard is made there too. I got something too on Nobile garage sale at the factory: Ptex Ti GS 183 Race Jr 122 for my son

The inner boot between ski and snowboard hard boot is the same. Work out your foot size on cm: Then come back with results, maybe the alpine collective can recommend proper shell size. @b.free might be correct that 312 shell might work for you In upz. If I was you I would get used snowboard shells from upz, as they have heel under heel design, which Leads to less footprint. If you buy upz you can also buy adapters for din toes and heels: https://upzboots.com/product/up-toeheel-set-ski-din/ For starting board: look for something with relatively short turn radius: anything between 11m to 15m would be good (since you are in the US - plenty of doneks, priors and coilers will do the trick for you) Main rules are: Less radius means less speed required to carve on the edge, but also means less time on the edge before you are going uphill. It will take a bit of time to get used to the speed, therefore something more then 15m I wouldnt recommend before you learn how to put your board high on the edge right at the beginning of the turn. Waist width - this boils down to personal preference. Less waist will mean bigger angles and shorter edge to edge time. For start look for something approx 20 cm in waist. There is plenty of tech articles worth looking at for binding and board set up: https://beckmannag.com/hardboot-snowboarding http://www.alpinecarving.com/ This will point you to a STARTING point for your set up. Everything else will be an enjoyable journey with ton of tinkering and experiment to find something that works optimal for you. Cheers L

Nobody seen Avram actually riding. Top carving board for this year is 151 ride peace seeker with 5 to 8 m radius (how many or you just said in your head WHAT?) Overhang is a good thing and you shouldnt avoid it. all mentioned boards will work with us 13 and 14 size boot... Average videos for less then average snowboarders. Uses controversy to keep his groupies engaged. I.e. Donek is build in dirty factory, Knapton dances ballet on 800 dollars barn door. @pow4ever Yes we all clicked his videos and he wins at YouTube. Nobody here went there for knowledge though.

re your skiboots - doesnt sound like they are fitted to your feet well. I always had discomfort in the softboots (driver x) - with proper fitting in my plastic (sorry mountainslope ) boots, they are the most comfortable boots i ever had, easily riding for the whole day. there is many factors to consider - each shell fits a foot in different way, so maybe your current shell is jut not your type. You would need a bit of advice there or at least try it out a few shells if you have an opportunity. MCC might be the place to do this (wink @ibrussell) - especially if you can grab your liners with custom insoles from your skiboots, I am sure somebody will let you use their shells for a moment or two togehter with a board. re your knees - not sure where this comes from. Duck stance carries imho many more risks for carving, especially if you start rotating your torso and hips to the nose of your board - i.e. Ryan Knapton toeside. dont get me wrong - he is one of the few duck stance riders that I admire, but the gossip says he is double jointed or something, so that type of rotation doesnt bother him. double positive stance will feel more natural for carving and doesnt cause extreme angles on your knees imho. do some carpet carving till summer lasts and feel it out. if you have a slackline available somewhere - might be good to see some of the benefits of posi posi stance vs duck by trying to balance on slackline in both of these positions. re softboot carving - is it only me or more people think that carving in hardboots is easier, as the boots are much more responsive and dont have slack? i know quite a few people that learned on hardboots how to carve and went back to softies. Whatever you choose - good luck on your journey!

there is one video that I like to recommend to all people starting their carving story: this is related to alpine snowboard technique in hardboots - imho same positions apply, even though the angles on the softboot board are lower. bit of guide to softboot setup: http://canmanski.com/my-setup-for-soft-boot-snowboard-carving/ if you are already thinking about it, there is no point in waiting . if you are pondering buying an SBX or Softboot carving machine in the back of your head - save yourself some costs and go straight to hardboots. i regret that I found out about hardboots so late in my snowboarding carreer. good luck! Lukasz

@yamifumiseems that you go more narrow year on year! Looks great that board!

@SunSurfer what are you carrying in your hands? Cardrona looks awesome!

the only site I managed to track for g style is this : http://jcreate-corp.co.jp/business.html there is a catalog there, but it only shows a range a sizing. @roch327 sole size, 4 fingers behind the heel - your shell is definitely too big for your 265 mp.

i had 100 stiffness and now i have 120 WC. Springs have the biggest impact on the stiffness of this boot in the forward lean area. I didnt notice huge difference between the 100 and 120, however this maybe due to my zipfit liner with sidewinder that I have carried over. had UPZ before 951 - they are good, but they there is still a difference between 951 and UPZ. Last season UPZ had released a new RCR model that finally has a design, that is taking a lot from 951 - https://www.upz-boots.at/rcr If i was to buy boots right now, I would definitely look at 951 and UPZ RCR only @Chouinard T700 is quite a stiff boot, but given the ability to adjust flex in 951 or RCR i wouldnt worry that much about it. Choose based on your foot shape, size and the shell that fits your foot most closely. Liner fit is just as important as the shell itself.

How kind of you! Let me drop you a message directly.

i think they are Elfgen.

Thanks Pat! I will look also through the net for these L

hi all, I am planning to start my 6 years old on alpine board next season. Already got a board, but I struggle to find proper bindings. Any suggestions? thanks L

Rabanser SBX. Rabanser has released quite a few interesting carving boards both alpine and softboot. He is now also tinkering with radial woodcore : https://www.facebook.com/georg.rabanser/posts/pfbid026vYX4JbYaRQrdj92c5Qsz8qn7snAwiRvvWKeHNmSzxDv82aL3vNWatfwBCXQL23dl

My comment was only for starting the turn in minus position and then going to slight plus. This comes from Sigi and Benny.

Is that rodeo hand Jack? One of my early inspirations for carving tech. Calm, balanced and confident. Video from Ben is good - however you need to be "in the know" to fully understand what he is doing and why is he doing it. hips is one thing, however EC requires rotation of upper body also, which in race tech would be considered a mistake (heelside start in minus position and toeside in plus position vs the opposite in EC). if you look at top riders (Nevin, Sigi, Benny) they ride with none to minimal rotation of the upper body. One definitely useful thing from EC is how quickly they are able to get back on the edge after a washout.

@MillerLight60 one of the best vids for carving tech available on the net: one of the styles sure, but some of the movements are carry over. Concur with people here, that only riding with better riders who can give you pointers, filming yourself is key to progress. good luck

not only OES is in this vid - Board shown in 1 minute - its a SENSE Race Carve aka discostick https://www.youtube.com/c/YangmoTV - this is the full channel of yangmo - plenty of snowboard carving goodies. Fun fact - this is korea riding - snow in korea is slightly different then what you normally experience, as there is almost no natural snow, its very dry, so the artifical snow is very grippy and perfect for carving, thus such jumps are not that difficult to perform. This is coming from both Andrej Cerne from Sense and Benny Karl. more of the Chi_fac riding : https://www.facebook.com/sense.snowboard/videos/881247012810569

@patmoore First of all the question should be what style you want to ride There is many ways to carving which differ in details. I wish that I will be able to ride like you when the time comes.