scrutton

Hoping to get some accumulated wisdom from folks who have made the move to TD3 SW SI's. I'm considering the jump and would like to know what you thought of them. Thanks.

I have a couple of Lib boards, at least one with Magnetraction. I'm personally not a fan of it. 1. I thought the edge hold sucked compared with what I put on my other boards. It doesn't feel as good, and yeah it's slower. 2. It's damn near impossible to tune correctly due to all of the waves. Lib sells a super short tuning stone, which still has a straight edge, so there's parts of the edge that are un-tunable (the interior curves). I won't be buying another one. I will look at other boards.

Mark - you can't really go wrong with Thule/Yakima. The old square/round bars accept accessories from each other. The mounting brackets have a notch in them that you can remove to fit the other style of bars. I don't know anything about the aeroblade crossbars - I've seen them, never used them. I've used Thule crossbars only. Don't mount stuff to windows, that sounds like a terrible idea for many different reasons. If you need to save cash, buy stuff used/ebay.

Thought you guys might like to see this one, featuring kayak surfer Alejo Pacheco filmed in Costa Rica.

name - crud-busters idea:- - Does a double stacked plate improve isolation.

SOLD. Thanks all.

Purchase pending to drschwartz.

SOLD - My last set of OS2's, your gain. Only thing I have left after this are various miscellaneous parts. One set of OS2 standards. Standard elastomers. Short and long kingpins, all bolts needed to make it work. Dipstick and one wrench. And a fresh Catek sticker and box. $190 shipped to 48 states. One important anomaly that I want to point out is that the heel bails on these are the old-style Catek heel bails, more suited to wider style heel older boots. I used them with some old Burton megaflex boots. I believe that these heel bails are from a set of OS1's, but I'm not sure. The bails work fine with the OS2's, but you may get some rear boot slop when paired with a modern narrow heeled boot. Paul

SOLD. Thanks all.

SOLD - Catek OS2 standard long shipped $200 to lower 48. Standard Elastomers, modern style heel pieces that fit modern boots.

I've been rocking one of these this year. It works great. Rehydrate on the lift, never freezes up. http://cascadedesigns.com/platypus/bottles-and-storage/plusbottle/product

I rode a Lib tech snow mullet at SES a few years ago on a powder day. Loved it. It's a cambered board - 165cm. This year I picked up a Burton Custom Flying V, which has rocker in the center of the board, and on the nose/tail and camber underneath the feet. I haven't had it on powder yet. I haven't really noticed much of a difference riding this versus an old Supermodel which is my go-to stick if I am not hard-bootiing.

Not sure on this one. I checked the USASA rules, and note that they are banned in boardercross :- "Speed suits shall not be allowed, nor shall any "slippery material" beworn." however, this doesn't pertain to Alpine events in USASA, at least not according to the rule book. They are banned by the FIS. There's a thread on it here. But can't see how this would affect USASA rules. http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?30830-Good-or-bad-!-FIS-bans-one-piece-racesuit

Ordered the rest from Bomber. Don't need anything more at the moment. Thanks all Paul

I, and others have done the conversion using parts purchased from the Bomber store. You need step in toe bails, and rear receivers and 2 red plates, maybe 2 longer screws.

Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation Sean!

Enjoyed looking at the photos! Lots of different equipment on the podium, including Catek OS2's I noted in one shot. Apex, Donek, Bomber plates. Donek, SG, Kessler boards. What's up with the REV 163 in the last photo without the bindings - must have been challenging to ride :-)

I don't think that the spokeshave wouldn't be a good tool, as you want to be able to grind just the sidewall away, leaving the metal edge intact, and the blade on the spokeshave is pretty large; I guess you could angle it to avoid the edge, but I think that a sidewall remover would be easier to use.

Nice custom cant's Beckmann. Thanks for sharing.

"Common sense and logic are barriers to success." Love it. I'm going to try and use that saying at work on Monday.

After planing :-

I picked up the SVST planer, and just planed the sidewalls on a Lib Tech board. Having planed and edged one side of this board, this may be the last time I buy a magnetraction board. Re-angling the file and planer over the whole edge is a serious pain in the *&&%. Having said that, the SVST is a nice piece of equipment. The carbide bit fits on a pole that fits into the tool, allowing you to set it up at any angle. The stainless base moves smooth over the base of the board, and you can vary the angle the tool cuts at, by modifying the angle you hold the tool while passing it over the sidewall. Two thumbs up for the SVST tool. Before :- Prepped with marker: Tool :-

corey_dyck was on the money here. My short leash just fits with the leash looped through the angle adjuster.

I have to say this device works well. I've installed a boiler plate three times now. After being instructed by members on the forum on how to use it on the 4x4 plate system, it shave considerable time down on the plate install. The first two times I tried to install the boiler plate without using the wunderbar (at least correctly anyhow), it took all evening for each setup to get it done correctly. I think it took me four iterations each time to get everything aligned. The third time, now knowing how to use the wunderbar correctly, I managed to get the plate install done in 40 minutes. I still had a few iterations taking the plate off, loosening and re-snugging the bolts down and checking axle alignment, but it went a lot smoother doing this, re-snugging the bolts down with the wunderbar in place. The wunderbar keeps everything lined up while you are snugging down the bolts, reducing any axle-plate shift while the bolts are being secured. Thanks to all that helped with the correct usage of the Wunderbar. For those un-knowledgeable about this, it fits in the center of the 4x4 plates, NOT in the axle holes (which is where I inserted it on the first two attempts) :-)