k_t

Hey Bordy, nice to know that the older thick base irons still work great. I have had not such great experiences with the newer thin ones after the grandma iron quit. Could not stand the holes or the rapid cooling either. There is one wax specific iron that I should/will not mention that is not so good at holding temps either. I got a pretty good iron shortly after my ‘grandma’ one quit a few years ago and also like the fact that the edges are rounded up. Also I should mention that sometimes I get these things in a way that I don't have to worry about the sticker ($) shock. All in all it sounds like if you can still find the older heavy base, non-steam irons cheep, then by all means get one. I did like mine back before it became landfill. As for the button, I knew what would happen if it were pushed so we would always remove/disarm the thing 'cause we sure weren’t going to take the thing home to mom to iron clothes with. (Maybe this is good advice to some who use the steam irons) I have one question for you on the serious side. You said to check into hobby shops for a good iron. A lot of us (at least me) probably never thought of that. (I work too much any more to have many hobbies). What do you usually have to pay for a good enough iron there? I have some friends that may also like to know. And you are right about not many of us are racing. The simple fact that a well maintained anything will give you better performance is what a lot of us strive for. Not always for the clock but for personal gain and satisfaction. I already know that the wax or waxing is not going to win any races for me. I personally think that better glide from wax and/or structure can also be translated into better release. After all being the typical lazy American, anything made easier has to be better. Wax on!

I thought that was on the way home after the beer.

Isn't the rule of thumb "Under 12, breakaways"

Your basic irons for clothes are good for clothes but the fluctuation on the temperature is way too much for a good job on your board. Sometimes as much as +40 to -40 degrees from the setting as the thermostat cycles. You may have it just right to heat the wax and base when you start and as it cools and needs to re-heat it may get too hot and smoke the wax. For those you do not know what happens to wax when it smokes, it becomes carbonated and gets into the base with the rest of the wax and makes for a slow wax job. Too cool and you do not get the wax penetration you need into the base. Most of the wax comes with a temperature range that you should set your iron to and the better "pro irons" will have a temperature range on them. Also the fluctuation is never usually more than 4 to 10 degrees. An iron with a more massive (thick / heavy) foot on them to maintain the correct temps for the wax you are using is also a good thing. for large bases such as your board. All this said, use what you have if you are OK with it and if you want to get more serious about waxing you may want to look into a "pro iron".

I will watch this thread and see if my schedule will allow me to make it over there for a day or two. As far as I know salt raises the freezing temperature of the snow so it stays a bit firmer in the warm temps. A snow cat while grooming spreads it. In the past we always referred to them as "Salt Cats". The spring corn snow is more likely the most abrasive factor on structure, but you should not be concerned about it. What you should do (if they are salting) is to make sure that you wipe dry your board every day to remove any salt residue avoiding any oxidizing or rust on the edges. kt

If you can drill them out I checked and have t-nuts and the screws. Let me know kt

The "inserts" in the bottom of the boots are t-nuts and should come out into the boot from the bottom. You should be able to get new ones at a ski shop and if not send me a message as I may have some I can put in the mail to you. If you take the heel off and put the screw part way into the t-nut you should be able to push (may need a hammer) to get the nut loose and out. kt PS. a drift pin is a punch that has no taper and a flat tip.

Same shoe, different foot. Jackpot or lotto, you arre both lucky.

I am not saying that you are not a good teacher, it is just that I find it better to never try to teach the wife things like skiing or snow boarding. I find that a qualified instructor that can teach well will keep us friends, lovers, and talking and allow her to learn faster. Some of the best money spent. Cheaper than therapy too. just a thought...............

I am a lucky guy too. My wife likes to ski and loves to carve on the groomers. Lately she has been leaving her poles at the bottom of the lift for the first few runs on fresh corduroy and picks them up later when it starts to get a bit sloppy. I love her reply when she gets asked about not having poles, "No, I am not a beginner, I'm with these guys". Her only interest in snowboarding might be in soft boots for powder days.

I have to say something here that should not surprise anyone (that owns a Coiler that is). I got my first Coiler this year and love it. I say first because it will not be the only one that I own. I have the 178 PR and love the thing. The only problem I have is what I want next, the SL or maybe a SG. IMO Bruce is not only a great board builder but also one of the kindest and most friendly people that I have done business with in any industry. If you have not had the pleasure of riding one of his boards and happen to be at the ECES, jump on one! I understand that there should be some demos there as there were some at the SES. Kt PS. Ben, that new red on black is nice.

Don’t forget that there were Coiler’s and MADD’s to demo as well. Thank you Dave Morgan and MADD Mike for bringing such great boards to the SES. And for those who might tele, Donek had their new tele ski at the SES for demo and of course mounted up with nothing less than the Bomber Bishop. Thank you Sean and Fin! kt

kt will try to make all days (will need a break by then). from Blase, Idontknow

I know that lift well. Nice bowl under there (if you can see that far down). I remember a lift at Mammoth that freaks people out on the first few rides, did me anyway. Just when you think that you are going to be at the top of the lift you start going down hill. Maybe Sean2 can tell us which one that is. kt

Big bummer about the knee. I my opinion I think that a brace can give you false security. Nothing beats being strong. I would guess that if you do not need surgery proper weight lifting will strengthen the muscles around the joint allowing the tendons to heal. Ice is a big factor in the healing after a session of lifting too. If you do need surgery then a good strengthening program after surgery is the way to go, for the best results I suggest going to a good sports medicine doc and physical therapist. I have had several knee surgeries (5) and have never worn a brace. I still carve (and tele) hard. Mountain biking in the summer and going to the gym year round is what I do for strengthening. An ace wrap may be useful to keep swelling down early on as well as ice. I do realize that everyone is different so good luck in what ever you do. kt

.....................under 12 are break-aways.............:p kt I can’t believe that I actually used one of those faces.

Hey Pat. I hope to make at least some of the SES again this year. Rode with some CO guys on Monday at Targee. Work has got me scrambling right now and the cost of lodging is what may stop me. Any one have room for the Summit side cheep? Will try to make the Aspen side at least. kt

quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Pat Donnelly: Giro 9 IMO - the Giro 9 is a step up from a bicycle helmet. Giro is part of Bell Helmets and are manufactured in China. The Leedom I have (Limit) has been rebuilt (stryo foam replaced by Leedom) twice since 1999 - this was done in Norwood MA. The current repair was done on the day the helmet was received. In both cases I did not know the styro's integrity was in question. Some Mfg's liek Leedom offer an inspection service while others tell you to destroy and discard the helmet after an impact or after 3 or 4 seasons. If a hit is taken with the Giro then I will have to toss it as the styro foam is molded directly onto a thin layer of plastic. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a Leedom and a Giro. I prefer the Giro because it is lighter and not near as warm. If truly it is a step above a bike helmet then that is OK with me. I say this because I once had a “pile-driving” (head first) episode in the way of a direct slam into the ground on a single-track mountain bike decent at about 25+ MPH. The helmet (Specialized) only suffered a small break at the rear. Me nothing, not even a stiff neck. Of course I replaced it through Specialized for a fraction of the cost of a new one. I also understand that one good hit and you should replace a helmet anyway. kt

nothing. Just had to bring this to the top again

Black. Long and short. kt

I used to use toe lift (front) with canting and heel lift (rear) with canting because I am a fan of the Bomber TD’s and that is the nature of the TD1’s. Now with the new TD2’s I think that I will stay with lift only. Just this week I was riding at Targee in WY and took a minute (or 10) to experiment with the new TD2 as this was only the second day out on them mounted on my new Coiler. The ride was so good in the recommended starting position, (cant with lift to put you into a familiar position) that I was hesitant to take the time to change the bindings cant/lift disk and adjust them to a position of just lift only. After about 6-8 runs 2 of us decided to make the time to try it to see what would happen. Immediately after steeping into the front binding and skating over to the lift I could feel a huge difference in my foot and leg in relation to the board and figured I would experience one of two things, 1, I would hate it and wish that I had not done it on such an awesome day of carving. Or 2, I would not notice any or much difference. All I have to say now is WOW!!!!!!!! After making about one and a half turns I could tell a huge difference and a third option came to light. This is one of the coolest things about the binding. My hips and legs were now in even a more relaxed position making the turn even more fun and I even felt more relaxed in, through, and out of the turn. Nice job Bomber. Not to forget, without any question, the new Coiler was the biggest part of the fun that day. OK, OK. The rest of the crew was cool too.

Mr. Harris. You are such a humble and sometimes quiet man with not only such a great knowledge and understanding of this sport you also possess a great ability to convey it to others. (He was also the rave of our group at Sun Peaks this past December). Now if that does not embarrass you then nothing will. kt PS. My new Coiler 178PR rocks, so thanks to you too Bruce. (more on that later)

hmmmm..........the new TD2 would let you put your feet straight.

I think that Sean C (if we talk the same) had at least 4 I know of in Sun Peaks..........in carving setups.............still he is cool

If any one know how to get in touch with Glenn Plake, yes the ski dude with a Mohawk, he used to do a show where he would show different places, skiers, and amusing things on the snow. I do not even remember the name of the show or what channel (maybe Outdoor Life?). On one show I remember him skiing next to a guy on a sit-ski chair/device mounted on an alpine board and if was great. It couldn’t have been more than 3-4 years ago. Anyway I think that a standard sit-ski device was mounted on the board with very little or not much modification. It carved very well and one of Glenn’s comments was something like “ It sure leaves a nice rut!” The rider said that he got the idea watching alpine riders and it seemed obvious to try this set up. In my imagination all I think that would be needed is a wider and maybe a longer mounting platform to attach it to the board No need to completely re-invent the “wheel”. Good luck in whatever you do. kt