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Out of curiosity, who is it?

@Ster soooo…?

Personally speaking I won’t use anything less than the very finest polycarbonate in my boot stiffeners….for perfect consistent flex in all conditions, just how I need it

Totally fine to place your boards on concrete……won’t hurt em unless you strap in and start going

Got my earliest dirt ride ever this past Friday, March 8th. Trails mostly dried out and everything. What a brutal winter. Loving the new 29” wheels and aggressive new school geometry. These aren’t super small changes and I’m still going to be an adjustment period, but even after one ride I can already see the upside.

So how is the Flux?

Just got a few torques and underwear from you, right on. Will reach out if I decide to sell but so far I’m enjoying the plate.

Beauty boards. Would love to see your bootout with those step ons.

I think the approach to sidecut has varied by company and type of board over the past 20 years (roughly since blended sidecuts arrived). And of course it’s not just strictly the sidecut that makes a board feel and behave differently but also the specific flex pattern for boards, which has also varied. Compared to the overall blended sidecut (e.g. 12m), Contra has roughly a longer-tightest-tight-longest sidecut profile from nose to front foot to rear foot to tail.

Not sure if this is what you are saying here in referring to taper, but the Contras have the largest sidecut off the tail…the “hook” is somewhere around the rear leg if you will.

Yeah, that’s the solution — litigation and legal fees is really gonna fix this problem. Good lord, America.

There is nothing new under the sun…

I agree! And also ride the board and let us know what you think — I’ve heard great things about the Secret Construction!

So you paid extra for Ready to Ride and your board was not waxed or tuned; and you paid extra for Secret Construction, but now are not confident if you actually received it?

“What Do Racers Do” would be a nice little mini series. This sport is pretty devoid of that type of knowledge, which is a self-defeating barrier for people interested in getting into it. That has always annoyed me. In what other sport is a professional’s setup so secretive? I mean you’ve got Ester and Benny Karl out there doing their best to get those Insta likes and I’m pretty confident at no point can you ever find out what they ride, how they set it up, or anything at all for people who would actually like to try and learn more about what they do. It’s like board setup is some arcane dark magic

Cool—never seen that before

Medium here, US 8.5 Driver X. I really like them but do get a pressure point on top instep on left foot after an hour or so. What I did not do is heat re-fit the boots with the PowerRides, so that is next step that should help. May also try another size/hard stiffness at some point. Great stuff

This weekend looks rough. Visiting the Finger Lakes in upstate NY in a couple weeks and feels like we might need a miracle to get our money’s worth.

Unless you’ve already sent, can we get it to a nice round number?

Guy in my area is selling a lightly used “Mystery Hometown Hero” but he’s asking an astronomical fortune. Looking on their website it seems crazily priced. Have you tried a Mystery version? I’d love to grab any HH and give it a try, but being more expensive than a Coiler hasn’t let me pull the trigger as of yet….

Yeah that was my thought as well. Brushie was iconic to a 90s kid and so was that board…but maybe I should go back and check but I kind of feel he was never really considered one of the great snowboarders, unlike a Craig Kelly or Terje or Shaun White. And it’s not really like a classic car where some of the cache is being able to start and drive it when the weather’s nice — no one’s likely to be putting this on snow in 20 years. So I’d be curious what kind of value this board will have in 25 years. But what the hell do I know, it seems like there’s more and more super rich collectors for this type of stuff so who knows.

This rule is specific for carving uphill in the opposite direction of downhill ski traffic. Alpine carvers go across the hill perpendicular to traffic. The only time this rule is engaged for alpine carvers is for very specific cases where they try to completely finish the carve and head back uphill, like the famous 360 carve.

Then: the same 3-to-4 minute spiel about bindings for carving (which I think is probably simpler). Then: soft boots for carving. Then: smoke break. Then: spend an evening planning to break the topics in your main video up into the same type of 3-to-4-minute chunks to cover some common issues, and spend a few days this spring getting some additional film on those topics — e.g toeside and heelside stance, issues and common fixes. Then spend your summer and fall using your existing and new footage creating a new series of videos and start releasing them one at a time starting in December once I (I mean, everyone else) am done with mountain biking. That sir is a Plan. Or you know, you could just go ride your snowboard…that’s probably better

So, I thought about this and I do think slowly breaking it up into digestible, 4-minute-or-less chunks should be where you head next. I would start first with the board, which is what everyone starts with. My unsolicited loose change suggestion points that you can pick up or not would be: — The beauty of the principles you outline is that they can be used by anyone to carve well on any snowboard. There is absolutely no need to run out and buy a dedicated new snowboard to learn the basics of carving. This is my personal view that is not shared by all but I do think it is important to spread the message that specialised equipment is not required to learn this sport. I say this as someone who sees 5-10 Korean/Japanese softy beginner-to-moderate carvers on $2000 Gray/Yonex boards every time I hit the hill. James I’d leave it to you, but I suspect a quick fun shot of you carving some POS/rental/rock board might instill that point, if you wish to stoop to place your holy snowboard boots into that sort of common filth. — Once viewer learns the basics of body positioning and your carving skills progress and you’re able to get lower and deeper at faster speeds, then you might find that general all-purpose boards start to hold you back. — then you can get into some high-level specifics of what to look for in a good softy carving board, i.e. materials, flex pattern, camber, sidecut, effective edge, and likely width (including a quick explanation of bootout issues). — then if you want you can throw a few off the shelf and custom carving boardmakers out there from the main regions, e.g. Europe/NA/Asia. But think about how to do that because inevitably you’re going to forget someone’s brand X and it invariably devolves into viewers complaining about why X wasn’t included. (Or in Bruce’s case there’s the possibility that some may not even appreciate the callout lmao.) —Done! That’s actually a shitload to pack into four minutes and would involve a 5-page Lounge thread. I would approach it as: what are 2-3 sentences I can say about topics 1,2 & 4, and 1-3 sentences about each of the board characteristics in topic 3? —something about AI and profiting…?

Errr I’m sure I do not need to say this, but to be clear, if you are developing a clever new step in design idea, please do not share it with randos on the internet.