Plate Setup for a Newbie

[Wolf]

I just bought a Donek Rev 160 with a Bomber Boiler Plate from Chris C (photo below).  This will be the first time I'm trying a plate.  I know the Boiler Plate is an old design and plates in general seem to have lost that "must have" appeal that they once had.  But I thought this would be an interesting new thing to try with a pretty cheap investment.  We do get some days here with a little freshly blown, groomed snow on top of some uneven refrozen granular.  The plate might make those days less fatiguing when I dig through the new snow.

The instructions for the plate are still available on Bomber, and I understand how the pieces stack up and mount, plus the need to get everything aligned.  But I'm wondering if there's any guidance on where to start for center-to-center distance for mounting the plate to the board (choices are 56, 59 and 62cm.  My thinking is since the board is a short 160cm and I'm a wimpy old guy, 56cm might make sense to let the board flex more easily?

Also, I ride with a 50cm binding-to-binding stance width.  Do I want to start with my bindings at that width, centered on the plate?  That would have everything centered, maximum flex for the Rev, and my usual binding-to-binding stance width.  FYI, I thought I would use a set of F2 Titanium bindings initially.  My other choice would be TD3s (not the BP version).

Thanks for any advice y'all have.

 

 

[bigwavedave]

If I were you, I'd ride it first sans plate so you know what you're dealing with. Those old V1 BP's are very stiff. Some people modified them either by narrowing the waist or cutting a long hole in the center. There's a picture somewhere. Found it....I believe it was a Fin approved mod...

 I had the lite version and had my front toe over the axle. @barryj ?

I found standard TD3's to have an unwieldy stack height, like riding in high heels might feel and felt too squishy loose. F2's will be just as good or better than bp bases on sidewinders because they have direct contact under heels and toes.

With the extra height you can use shallower angles for more power to the edge while still avoiding boot-out.

[SunSurfer]

4mm or 5mm plate?

Either way, the plate is designed to allow the board to flex freely at any interaxle distance.

A sliding axle plate exerts much of its performance benefit from minimising twist in the midsection of the board. The longer the interaxle distance the longer the section with better torsion control. Note that the AllFlex plate, the current racers favourite has its sliding attachment points at either end of the plate (the mid section attachment points on it limit the amount of board flex).

The plate will make you appear "lighter" to the board, (cheaper than a course of Ozempic) and the board will flex less in any given turn. So your turn radius will increase slightly.

I would suggest start with maximum interaxle distance you can fit on your board. Plate centred on whatever inserts you are utilising (UPM or 4x4). Bindings at your normal stance distance and centred on the plate.

Conventionally the sliding axle is placed at the front. The plate will perform identically and the board will flex freely with the plate oriented either way. I ride my plates with the fixed axle at the front and the sliding axle at the rear.

Check the tightness of the mounting screws on a daily basis.

I have TD3s with the BBP baseplates that are thinner than the standard baseplates. Even so the extra height from the plate makes pushing along in queues and cat tracks a little different. The extra height may also make using footrests on chairlifts more difficult. I often struggle to get my foot on the rest and my thight under the safety bar. With the extra weight of plate plus accumulated snow you will want to reduce the drag on your leg while on the chairlifts as much as possible.

It takes a while to get used to low speed manoeuvres and side slipping to a stop.

Let us know how you get on.

(PS: I have drilled an extra set of hole in my 4mm BBP so the my max interaxle distance is a further 3+3 cm apart than the standard.)

Edited March 23 by SunSurfer

[Corey]

You want the front axle to be at or ahead of the ball of your foot. Rear goes as far back as it can. 

Plan to spend some time relearning the basics like side slipping and stopping. Not overly hard, just different. 

[Wolf]

47 minutes ago, SunSurfer said:

4mm or 5mm plate?

The flat sections at the front and back measure 5mm thick, so I assume that's the spec.  

I like the idea of trying the board without the plate.  The board I used the most this year is a Donek FC (metal) 163.  This Rev is an oddball 160, so pretty close.  Nose side cut radii are similar(7.5-FC, 7-Rev) but the Rev probably has a larger tail side cut.  Widths are similar (19.5-FC, 20-Rev).  The Rev is a little stiffer so I should get the feel of that.  I also haven't used the F2 bindings before.  

I have lots of time to think about it because the season here is done.  I'm waiting until next season unless I take a big trip.

[Corey]

The Revs are quite versatile.

Try it without the plate first to change one thing at a time. Make note (mark on sidewall) of where you like the bindings front to back as it's basically impossible to see the original mounting holes once the plate is on. 

The plate smooths out ripples shockingly well, but makes the board numb as a consequence. You can charge through some stuff that would have you chattering without it. 

[rjnakata]

...let me add this.  The farther apart the axels, the "stiffer" the board will ride, increasing turn radius...like a wide (non-plated) stance.

[jburk]

I found if you're going to use F2s with the boiler plate that there may be some interference between the binding base and button head hex bolts fixing the axle receivers to the underside of the plate; these protrude slightly above the plate surface. I was able to replace them with conical Phillips which sat flush with plate surface.  

[Wolf]

All - I really appreciate all of the good advice!  Thank you.

jburk - Do you mean these screws?  Mine are flat head.

[jburk]

56 minutes ago, Wolf said:

jburk - Do you mean these screws?  Mine are flat head. 

Yup, those. Looks like you're already set then.

My v2 4mm lite had the button heads, came that way when I bought it new from Bomber, but that was back when "the couple who bought it from Fin" were in the final throes; that plate may have been one of the very last things they ever shipped, so attention to detail may not have been optimal. 

[rjnakata]

...my v2 has 5mm button heads.  I believe that is the standard (vs 4mm flat head)