Accidental Binding Release

[charliechocolate]

UPZ MP 26, F2 Carve RS bindings. Happens occasionally with the rear boot only and the rear binding has a shim on the heel block for lift.

It's never an issue with Race Ti bindings. I've played around with how tight or loose the toe ledge sits against the bail but I don't know if any of it helped.

I have no clue what causes release but suggestions are welcome.

[kibber]

RS is too flexible for the demand. I only use RS on my powder ‘board. RC10’s12’s, RCRs, buckled for carving, firm cord’ can transfer a big moment of force.

..are the heels on your boots worn? might need replacing.

[snowburn]

1 hour ago, kibber said:

I only use RS on my powder ‘board.

Same here only on my pow board. 

I would also check toe bail to heal receiver for proper distance. The pins on boots should be towards the back of the holes. Just tight enough for the pins to slide but not tight enough to hang up/bind and not fully engage

[kibber]

and/or may need to adjust cant on rear boot in a bit, or add 3° inward cant on binding (if flat); your stance width, angles, may be preloading some unnecessary forces, taking away flex range of binding. I dink w this shit so much just to feel neutral with all settings. It’s really scary to have a hardboot release, sounds like you’re not hurt…glad for that. I hope any comments from the group help.

[inkaholic]

If sticking with those binders and worried about it happening again, drill a hole in the plastic lever and put a cord through it long enough to go under your toe buckle on your boot. You'll have to undo it to get out and redo it at the top but you'll have peace of mind while riding. 

ink

fyi... old racer trick when bindings weren't so good. 
 

[BlueB]

1) Make sure the bottom contact surface of the bail is at least 0°, but preferably slightly past that, in relation to the contact surface of the toe block. 

Snow on the sole can change that angle. 

2) Check thst the toe block is attached firmly to the boot, without movement. 

3) check that the heel sits firmly planted to the binding, not just riding on the bail groove. 

Have you even ridden the Race Ti this year, or just the Carve RS? Maybe set them both, at home, with one boot each, to see if there's any difference, how they sit? 

[Corey]

Toe clip style, not step-in, right? 

Assuming toe clip: when clipped in, is the toe clip slightly loose? i.e. can it wiggle just a little bit? There shouldn't be free play unless you're going for Pureboarding style. 

Does it have a firm snap when closing? The force to close should build and build as you're closing, then go over center and close itself for the last little bit. 

[kibber]

11 hours ago, inkaholic said:

If sticking with those binders and worried about it happening again, drill a hole in the plastic lever and put a cord through it long enough to go under your toe buckle on your boot. You'll have to undo it to get out and redo it at the top but you'll have peace of mind while riding. 

ink

fyi... old racer trick when bindings weren't so good. 
 

..the ol’ trick w Emery’s & SnoPro’s. .

[AaronG]

For initial set up I toss my bindings and boots in the freezer. The plastic boots and bindings will shrink. It mimics what occurs when you’re on the snow.  

[TimW]

On 3/8/2024 at 12:07 AM, charliechocolate said:

 

I have no clue what causes release but suggestions are welcome.

It is 30 years ago, but I have had this and it was caused by flexing the boot so far sideways in the binding that the boot pressed against the the steel of the toe bail. This pushed the bail down and flicked the lever open. A wider toe bail solved the issue.