Returning to hardboots with old gear compatibility questions

[Chucifer]

Hey all, 

When I was growing up on the east coast, I was firmly in the hard boot alpine carve world (hated the old soft boot lace tightness issue) until I took a break from snowboarding throughout my 20s. Now I’m in my 40s and every winter it’s been awesome going to new resorts.

I recently dug out my old Raichle 125’s and Burton Alp 5.7 and was thinking of using it for next season.

However, it seems that 1) my liners in the boots are disintegrating after 25 years of non use and 2) the 3 hole pattern of the bindings aren’t compatible with the modern 4 hole system and 3) are the boots even safe to use?
 

I was able to throw my Burton Photon wide liners into the Raichle shells and it feels decently comfortable, but the collar seems a little thin compared to the old liners. Is this okay or should I look into getting some Intuition liners?

Also, if I want to use the hard boots on my modern board (Solomon Speedway or Rossi Sushi), is there an adapter plate or 4 hole disc so I can use my old Burton bindings or can someone point me in the direction of a decent modern binding that won’t break the bank? 
 

Thanks in advance!

[dredman]

We have seen many old boots and bindings fail dramatically, time for new.

www.yyzcanuk.com Deeluxe boots and F2 Bindings

www.donek.com Deeluxe boots and F2 Bindings

www.bomberonline.com for super durable bindings TD-3 Sidewinder

www.upzboots.com for UPZ boots

The new generation boards are really spectacular also.  They ride in a much wider range of conditions than the old generation boards, thus tons more fun all day long. Winterstick, Donek, Coiler 

 

 

[GeoffV]

That Burton Alp at close to 30 years old will not be doing you any favors getting backing into HBs. I would highly recommend getting some new gear. The new boards are so much easier to ride. If you can’t afford new, check out our classifieds section there is always great used gear for sale. 

[Wolf]

I'll offer an alternate viewpoint.  New equipment is definitely safest, but your old stuff might get you going if you accept some risk.  I still use Raichle boots of the same vintage as yours.  The plastic does get brittle with age and depending on how much heat and sun the boots have seen.  I've had two boots crack but neither break was catastrophic.  I could tell something wasn't right and could ride to the bottom of the hill.  But I'm on a small hill, parked close, and keep a spare set of boots in the car so a boot failure doesn't end my day.

Your bindings are probably old Burton Race Plates.  They are best for lighter, less aggressive riders.  The metal bails can break, but the most common failure is the plastic toe levers.  I'd put your bindings in the freezer and then try attaching the frozen toe clips to your boots and see if the plastic breaks.  I'd say those toe clips are a bigger risk of an injury-causing failure than the boots.  I'm no oracle, but the only toe clips I've seen broken were maroon in color.  Other colors may age better.  Also, I've read that the clear plastic baseplate covers are also prone to breakage.

You can get 4-hole Burton disks for your bindings.

If you don't ride aggressively and just want to get out on the old stuff, what you have might work.  But newer equipment will be both easier to carve and safer.

[Chucifer]

Thanks for the input, everyone! Safety is definitely a concern so all advice will be taken to heart. 
 

 

[Jack M]

Old gear can work well on softer snow.  If you fly west from DC to do all your riding your board could be ok assuming you are on the smaller/lighter side.  If you ride in the east, just toss it all and get newer gear.  Money and time spent on a compromise is usually wasted when you eventually buy thing you should have bought in the first place.

In any case, get rid of those ancient bindings, they are dangerous.  Bare minimum without breaking the bank is F2 Race Titanium.  Get an extra lift kit so you have the option of using toe lift on the front foot and heel lift on the back foot.  Bomber TD3 are the spare-no-expense option.

Edited April 4, 2023 by Jack M
and time

[Aracan]

Spare parts for your bindings are available (they are called "Carve Company" these days, as the then-OEM manufacturer for Burton still makes them under their own brand), but once you have replaced both sets of bails, you won't have saved much compared to the F2 Race Ti, especially if you can find a deal somewhere. If your Burtons have the clear baseplate, definitely get rid of that one way or the other.

Personally, I have suffered too much in that model of boot to even consider them, but feet are different.

[philw]

14 hours ago, Chucifer said:

Also, if I want to use the hard boots on my modern board (Solomon Speedway or Rossi Sushi), is there an adapter plate or 4 hole disc so I can use my old Burton bindings or can someone point me in the direction of a decent modern binding that won’t break the bank? 

That would be my approach, if you have "soft boot boards", in my experience they ride perfectly well with hard boots, and are likely way better than ancient Burton boards. The "speedway" looks like it may work. Check the width at the mount point (you may want narrower than reference with Salomon) to see what angles you can get away with (very wide boards don't work well with the steeper angles of hard boots).

I'd start by getting some relatively cheap and simple F2 bindings which will work with both old boots and any new. As shipped in the EU those will allow 1° front toe lift and 3° back heel lift out of the box.

I'm not sure how well the plastic in old boots stands up. I'd be nervous about those.
 

[Aracan]

As far as the boots go, I would agree with Wolf: A failure will end your day, but it's unlikely to result in injury. The bindings are a different matter.

[NateW]

+1 to the wisdom above. Old boots are low risk, old bindings are high risk.

Welcome back.