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Big foot softbooters, maximum practical angles?

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Got a friend with flipper feet - size 12. He bought a Prior MFR 168W with 270mm waist. It's his first snowboard other than rentals and he's not sure what angles to run. I run 21/9 so I set him up at 21/12 and the rear foot overhangs like crazy.

What would be the max, practical angles he could run without limiting his progression. He's not interested in park or riding switch.

And yes, I tried to talk him into alpine but he's not having any of it.

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Beyond 35ish the highbacks don't do much, without a 3rd strap added... 

I guess he's a beginner? He'll probably be fine with the overhang for now. Then, maybe some risers later? 

Edited by BlueB

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I run 33 on my lead foot with no issues. Alot of japanese/korean softbooters run angles in 45s so it is possible to go pretty high but your friend will probably want stiff boots to offer support

 

 

Edited by scottishsurfer

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It's way to early to specialize into high angles.  Try as-is and then go from there.  Toe overhang doesn't matter for 90% of snowboarders as they'll never tip the board up high.  

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out of curiosity what boots is he riding as im size 11 and was able to ride -3 degrees on the back foot(I ride 33,-3) with a 275mm waist board?

Edited by scottishsurfer

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Risers can help... That said big feet need wider boards.  

That said many beginners start with boots that are too large. If his toes weren't touching the ends of his softies on day one they are too large.

My softies are larger (12) than my hardboots... I think the lowest I go for the rear is in the high 20s.

Edit- My napkin calculations say MP 30 boots should be able to go down to 17 on a 27.5 waist.

Edited by lonbordin

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Does you friend have ski experience?  If so, higher angles (30/20) aren't going to necessarily hinder him while he is learning.  You might be able rotate the front high back a little, but he will most likely initiate heel side turns by projecting his hips a little more and a little less squatting.

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20 hours ago, scottishsurfer said:

out of curiosity what boots is he riding as im size 11 and was able to ride -3 degrees on the back foot(I ride 33,-3) with a 275mm waist board?

He has Salomon Dialogues, size 31. I'll leave him at 21/12 for now and see how it goes. He is a skier.

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I run about +36/+29 with size 30.5 MP Salomon Malamutes, which probably give me a bit of extra leeway for higher angles. Leaving him at those angles until he starts to boot out makes sense. Then either start cranking the angles more, or get some Bomber power plates (they're absolutely fantastic for riding softies with big feet).

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On 1/3/2020 at 11:52 PM, lonbordin said:

My napkin calculations say MP 30 boots should be able to go down to 17 on a 27.5 waist.

Mondopoint is just the length of your foot in centimeters.  I'm guessing a boot for size 30 feet will be probably 32cm long at best.  Off the top of my head I can't imagine 17 degrees doing much to overcome the 4.5cm difference in your example.

I ride 30/15 on a 27.5cm waist board, with US size 10.5 Burton Driver X.  I can still get toe drag at extreme edge angles.  Most of the time it's good though.  There is a reason @Ryan Knapton rides 31cm waist boards.

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Edit- Jack's right in that the rider in question might need a much wider board.

There's a large difference in the average riders angulation angles and yours @Jack M

:biggthump

I was calculating average not if we're looking at someone like @Ryan Knapton

Edited by lonbordin
Heroes! Just sayin'

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Might want to have him try out angles and go up as needed. If he's still skidding around it won't really be much of an issue unless it's really bad.

 

Bad overhang to us is gonna' be quite different than bad overhang for a basic all-mountain rider.

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I'm on 11.5's, before getting custom boards I tried like 45 in front/back to try to get rid of most of the overhang but it was terrible, boots were way too soft side to side.  Now I ride 15, -15, but on a 32cm waist board so overhang isn't an issue.  My thoughts now on it is that if you're really into carving, boots should never overhang  ...hardboots or softboots...  When surfing/wakeboarding/kiteboarding your board is always way wider than your feet. 

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53 minutes ago, kitejumping said:

I'm on 11.5's, before getting custom boards I tried like 45 in front/back to try to get rid of most of the overhang but it was terrible, boots were way too soft side to side.  Now I ride 15, -15, but on a 32cm waist board so overhang isn't an issue.  My thoughts now on it is that if you're really into carving, boots should never overhang  ...hardboots or softboots...  When surfing/wakeboarding/kiteboarding your board is always way wider than your feet. 

I agree, but until the rider becomes concious of what a real turn is, they will fight that board width all day long. 

Zombies need skinny boards to allow for side slipping 6 hours a day. 

For me personally I find heel overhang to be the hardest one to manage so I stay close to flush on the heel and put all my extra width on the toe side. 

DSC04482.JPG

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Does anyone know what it is like for a carving novice to try out a Knapton wide board? 

I started with a Lib Tech and soft boots, and experienced the inevitable toe and heel drag. I then tried Apex risers:

From my snow riding journal

 

Mar 24th  2017 Loveland 4"/24, at most. At times dust on crust, or reef. I have mounted Apex Gecko Stealth carbon fiber riser plates between my Lib Tech Mullet 160cm and my Salomon Defender bindings. The point of these is more carving power. They seem to absorb a bit of chatter too. Whether it is them, or the techniques for soft boot carving I learned from watching Ryan Knapton's you tube vids on the topic, I have more fun than expected on the dust on reef.

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On 1/23/2020 at 10:02 PM, Kijima said:

I agree, but until the rider becomes concious of what a real turn is, they will fight that board width all day long. 

Zombies need skinny boards to allow for side slipping 6 hours a day. 

For me personally I find heel overhang to be the hardest one to manage so I stay close to flush on the heel and put all my extra width on the toe side. 

DSC04482.JPG

I only see underhang there... 

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3 hours ago, Rolf said:

Does anyone know what it is like for a carving novice to try out a Knapton wide board? 

I taught my friend how to snowboard so he only went straight to carving and now after only 2-3 seasons he tried one of my super wide ones and is about to order his own.  He commented it was actually way easier to carve and a "cheater board" for carving because skidded turns were harder for him to do on it vs carving. 

If you can cleanly carve on a low angle green leaving a thin track its not hard to switch to a wide Donek (for carving).  The freestyle butter tricks take a long time to learn / adapt to the wide board as they are a lot easier on narrow flexy boards.

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Why underhang and why more on the toe side? 

Also, why are we discussing underhang in an overhang thread? 

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