jim_s Posted April 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 16 hours ago, erazz said: I hate PETG @erazz - any experience w/ ASA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I'm using those screws on my F2's Just note that it will take one step smaller hex tool for tightening them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 (edited) 14 minutes ago, pokkis said: I'm using those screws on my F2's They don't have the serrations under the flanges like the stock screws, do you ever have an issue with them backing out over time? Edited April 26, 2018 by jburk corrected term for the feature on the underside of the flange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_s Posted April 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 9 minutes ago, jburk said: I'm wondering if the way to go would be buy 40mm bolts and a rethreading (thread repair) die. Mark it to length, thread on the die, another 2 nuts to act as a guide, and cut the bolt with a dremel. Can anyone out there tell me if the die is overkill, and will just filing a chamfer and taking the nuts back off clean things up enough? These bolts look like they'll be a good replacement for the stock hardware, the head height is a bit lower than stock (3.3mm vs ~3.6mm) and the flange width looks to be the same at 13.6mm with my meagre skills with a $5 caliper. I'm no machinist (I do a fair bit of machining, but I'm a hack... ), but I think just the nuts alone should do a sufficient job of cleaning up the threads, especially if you lightly grind a tiny bit of chamfer on the end before threading the nuts back off, and work the nut back and forth a bit as you're threading it back off the end of the cut bolt. I need to measure the bolt head depth of the ones I'm using. I got the flattest-headed bolts I could find locally, then ran them on the belt sander to take a little more off, and then they fit (with a thin star washer underneath) into the binding top pieces fine (ie, the sliding part was able to slide over them w/o any problems). Those ones that you found look promising, for sure! (YMMV, but I'd recommend some kind of lock washers underneath them, to keep them from backing out - I'll be curious to see if the star washers end up chewing up the plastic over time...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 35 minutes ago, jburk said: They don't have the serrations under the flanges like the stock screws, do you ever have an issue with them backing out over time? Nope, but i turn all my screws too tight anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 4 hours ago, jim_s said: I'm no machinist (I do a fair bit of machining, but I'm a hack... ), but I think just the nuts alone should do a sufficient job of cleaning up the threads, especially if you lightly grind a tiny bit of chamfer on the end before threading the nuts back off, and work the nut back and forth a bit as you're threading it back off the end of the cut bolt. Even better: Get a fine triangular file. I got a cheap kit from Harbor Freight (or Princess Auto for Canadians) with various file shapes for cheap. Flat, round, half-round, square, triangular, etc. Then you can shorten the bolt, file off the burrs, and then use the triangular file to remove the little folded lip at the end of the first partial thread. The bolt ends up looking like it was made that way, plus there's nothing sharp to snag skin later. It works for every bolt size too! Just needs decent eyesight and a little practice/finesse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 ^^^ that's what I do 6 hours ago, jim_s said: @erazz - any experience w/ ASA? Stay away from ASA! It's great to print with and has good properties but the brittle/ductile temp is horrendous. Certainly not a good choice. I can't deny that from a pure material standpoint PETG is good. I just hate working with it. ABS does all that I need and gives me much better results. Again, the real material of choice is Nylon or if you really want to be posh: Taulman PCTPE: http://taulman3d.com/pctpe-features.html I've tried PCTPE, it's a royal pain to use but the results are awesome in terms of shock absorption and toughness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Sorry stupid question but what you mean here with shock absortion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 The PCTPE is somewhat flexible. It doesn't compress much but the little it does aids in shock absorption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 So if it compress, it means possibility to getting screws loosened, specially with with thicker pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Would compression be a desirable or detrimental characteristic in the case of the binding shims? I'm wondering if the binding bolts could experience loading during the compression cycle that would lead to fatigue, bending, early failure, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 It's sorta like the elastomer on the bottom of TD2/3 bindings. We're not talking about a lot of movement nor are we talking about plastic (permanent) deformation. Probably less than a millimeter. Not a lot but enough to take some of the edge off. It's still a tough plastic part, I don't think there's much of a risk of breaking other parts. I don't have F2s and even if I did I probably couldn't tell the difference but I still think that as far as material properties go PCTPE or Nylon in general would be the best options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 @jim_s What are the weight of these wedges for your setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 13, 2019 Report Share Posted February 13, 2019 On 4/25/2018 at 12:29 PM, yamifumi said: Wow, this is awesome. Now I need to figure out if the shims from F2 fits SG bindings or not..... I’m right there with you, they look to be the same as other f2 cants just no info on size... looks like there’s 3 f2 sizes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 On 2/12/2019 at 9:13 PM, bobdea said: Wow, this is awesome. Now I need to figure out if the shims from F2 fits SG bindings or not..... Tried this at MCC, has F2 shims and wanted to try canting the my SGs, the grooves are slightly different dimensions (depth and width) woujd have deformed the grooves if I had tightened them up. No mix and match. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 3 hours ago, jburk said: Tried this at MCC, has F2 shims and wanted to try canting the my SGs, the grooves are slightly different dimensions (depth and width) woujd have deformed the grooves if I had tightened them up. No mix and match. Did you try both sizes of f2s? Was it depth? Width? Anyone want to scan a set of cants so an SG cant can can be made on a on a 3D printer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 I have the F2 cants for the S/L bindings (the only difference between these and the M is the location of the hole in the cant), and when fitted against the SG heel lifts, the grooves were slightly different between the F2 and SG; the F2 cant didn’t fit flush against the SG piece below it, so it would rock. The SG groove is slightly narrower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 On 2/16/2019 at 2:20 AM, jburk said: I have the F2 cants for the S/L bindings (the only difference between these and the M is the location of the hole in the cant), and when fitted against the SG heel lifts, the grooves were slightly different between the F2 and SG; the F2 cant didn’t fit flush against the SG piece below it, so it would rock. The SG groove is slightly narrower. Ahh, I see, damnit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted February 18, 2019 Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 Can we get a 9 degree td3 can't please... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 On 2/17/2019 at 7:58 PM, Shred Gruumer said: Can we get a 9 degree td3 can't please... Nope. But I have been working on an intermediate piece to fit between a 0 degree plate and the upper. This would give you the same type of flexibility as in the F2 wedges. That being said, I got myself a pair of F2's and I'm really in love with them. I have a weird stance here I need 2 degrees of outward cant on my front foot with no lift. This doesn't work too well with TDs but is super easy with F2s (especially with Jim's design). Unfortunately my printer has been in pieces for far too long. I need to get it back together and print this stuff out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 On 2/17/2019 at 9:58 PM, Shred Gruumer said: Can we get a 9 degree td3 can't please... Could you not simply weld a three atop a six, and core out the extra teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtracz Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 On 4/26/2018 at 12:19 AM, Donek said: It can be a bit stringy., but it's stronger than PLA and a better low temp performer than ABS. It claims to be as easy to print as PLA, but I think it's somewhere between PLA and ABS. I was surprised by the warping as I had not seen any information on that being a problem. @DonekI realize this post is old, but if you are having trouble printing with PETG or Nylon try putting it in a food dehydrator for a few hours before printing. All filaments will soak up moisture and this will affect your print quality. Nylon is the worst. It does wonders for PLA as well. I usually cook mine for 6 hours and it's day and night. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cthulhufish Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 I keep my filaments in a dry box. Nothing fancy, just an air tight plastic bin with a kilogram of silica gel packets in the bottom. Eventually the silica gel packets need to be cooked to get the water out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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