Binding Question

[rustisgold]

Hi all,

 

I am getting back into carving after a long time off. Quick question about bindings: Is it a problem if the toe latch on my boot prevents the binding lever from closing all the way? 

Unfortunately, I didnt think to take a picture before leaving for work. It is extremely close to closing all the way and its definitely past the affirmative snap-in, however the stopper on the lever is a couple mm away from touching the front bail and the lever rests on the boot latch.

 

Has anyone tried heating the lever and giving the end a little more bend to get it out of the way?

 

Bindings are F2 carve Rs, Boots are Deeluxe Track 700

[TVR]

careful heating anything aluminum..... it tends to only get so soft and then just break... never a good result I have found

[Corey]

Have a picture from the side of the boot?  Show the toe of the boot as well as the entire clip and bail.  As long as it goes over-center with a satisfying "snap", it's likely good.  

[rustisgold]

TVR, on these bindings, the lever is plastic--otherwise I would never consider it!

 

Corey, it definitely makes it past the middle and there is a very satisfiying snap. As shown in the pics, its SUPER close to closing entirely it just doesn't quite.

[TVR]

Honestly, I would either buff the tip off (you would be married to those bindings) or do your original heat and bend... The challenge I see is, on the lift, the bar tee might hit and release it and / or it might get bumped and release.

Personally, I would not feel comfortable with those myself and swap them out for a set of TD's or mod them.

 

 

[rustisgold]

The only thing is that there is a stopper built into the lever. Even without the latch there, the lever doesnt even get close to touching the top of the boot. In the lower picture, you can kind of see that the lever stopper is really only a couple mm away from hitting the bail. If it really were as far off as it looks, I probably wouldn't be asking. Its just seriously SO close.

[lowrider]

After a premature front foot release i put a short tether on the toe leaver and snap it under the  second buckle for added assurance. The added reassurance worked wonders with self confidence. 

[rustisgold]

Lowrider, that is a great idea. I was thinking of a strap to loop under the boot and through the lever, but your idea is much much simpler.

[buster]

maybe grind the lever a little where it contacts the buckle

[lamby]

I have a similar issue. I ride in Track 700s and the front bails of TD3s, when I close them, rest on my lowest boot buckle. They appear to be well closed, as the bail is firmly down. I need to pull on it hard to open the binding and release the boot. Still, it is rather disconcerting. I've been riding it this way for a couple of seasons (got the Track 700s at the start of 2016 season) and have not had any issues with the bindings opening up. Still, I think it would be good to get off my ass and to break out my angle grinder to attempt a modification to the toe bail clips.

My friend Carvedog tells me I need to move to TD3 step-ins. This would take care of the problem without mods and I can see that the convenience would be super. Carvedog also tells me that if the front bail were to break on TD3 step-ins, if that happens, the boot is still locked into place - you can remain in control and come to a stop, w/o the crash that usually accompanies a binding bail break.

I did buy a pair of F2 Titaniums this season, but have yet to set them up on a board. From your picture it looks like you are on F2 Carve RS (it that correct?) So now I'm really curious. I will  set up my new F2s and see if they are likewise held away from closing completely with Track 700s.

By the way, I also sometimes use Burton Race Plate/Ibex bindings on days when I'm riding a softer board or a powder board. (I change out the bails every three seasons on these, changing out to brand new bails, as we have had a lot of breakage problems. With Bomber Bindings I change out bails every five years or so) I do like the flexy Burton/Ibex race plate bindings in some situations. They also do not close completely on T 700s, but they come real close to closing all the way.

In years past I have rode Raichle/Deeluxe 123s, 324s, Burton Winds and Fires and never had this problem with binding bail clips being held away by the lowest boot clip.

Did I read somewhere that new Deeluxe 700s have a new arrangement on the bottom buckle of those boots? Does new configuration address this problem? Best, Lamby

[lamby]

I set up my F2 Titaniums and they have the same issue when I lock down the toe clips to my T 700s. But I think its only holding the toe clip away a little bit. It appears to be very close to full closure. For my arrangement I feel pretty good about how they lock down. Little concern that they will open unintentionally.

[teach]

The picture looks a little scary. Maybe just put the toe buckle on the other way? You might have to drill out a rivet or two and replace with t-nuts, but then you could easily reverse it later if you change bindings.

There's not exactly "full closure". As you move the lever toward the boot, the tension on the bail increases up to a point -- "center" -- and then decreases. You want to be enough past "center" that the force required to open it is higher than anything you'll encounter, but not so much past center that the resulting low tension allows the boot to move excessively, possibly popping the lever open and/or unnecessarily stressing the bails. I'd guess that the lever was meant to be a little more horizontal at this point (given correct adjustment of toe/heel blocks).

UPZ Flo liners? How did you come to use those? (I'm a fan)

[ursle]

Ha, I’m thinking about my last pair of bombers, there was an Allen screw to adjust the distance the bail could sit off the boot, well, the clasp is now the distance, they look great, they have snapped onto the boot and are secure, ride ‘me and enjoy.

 

[Eric Brammer aka PSR]

Having used F-2's for many years, I'll add this;  The Toe buckle; The metal-style isn't needed, just install the simpler plastic strap type. If that isn't an option, reverse the fixtures {as "Teach' noted!}. If That doesn't clear the toe-cilp, add a bit of 1/4"  stiff + adhesive foam, to the underside of the toe-clip just about-and-above the end of the 'E' in Dee-luxE, such that it rests on top of the shell. Then TIGHTEN the adjust screws [like 1-3 turns, on an M-6x1.00 pitch threading], such that it WON'T Release by 'incident'. Then, add a short loop (ski-pole straps, cut-to-fit!) into the toe-clip, such that you can use the Added Leverage of the 3" strap to both clip-in, and release the binding. 

I quit using F-2's when I realized they had gone away from welded bail-ends in metal fittings, and instead used a bigger bail (6mm, vs 5mm) stuck into only plastic blockings, with No Retention other than the FORM of the PLASTIC Block/Hole. That was 1997, btw. Even SG's 'upgrade' binding still has that Failure-point built in. Plastic isn't that reliable over time, and, unlike Metal, gives no 'warning'  (nor is there a 'test' for it, except "by Eye"/deformation) that'll it will fatigue to failure. Granted, metals often fail along crystalline structure lines, thus no almost no report of stress, but they'll hold to a sheer tolerance that's predictable and known, where-as, Chinese plastic conforms to, which+what Standard-of-Industry?? Oh, and metal is Mold resistant, although it can oxidize (which, btw, is Obvious). 

Edited January 5, 2018 by Eric Brammer aka PSR
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