F2 Titanflex Intec - New to the System Q's

[MNSurfer]

I'm just getting into my first set of F2/Intec system and I have a few questions. First off, I have TD3's and Catec's on other boards, as a reference.

 

1. In the first pic, am I missing a part? I'm assuming each one of these pads goes beneath the toe, and heel. It seems as if one of pads is missing the, well, pad. If what I have is right, where does this 'in-padded' piece of rubber go? 

 

2. Size. These are the 'L' version, and by gunboats are M30's. I have the bindings as wide as they will run, and the heel does click-in, and releases easily enough. Feels completely solid. What concerns me is that it's not a straight up-and-down motion, like I'm used to with the FinTecs; Instead it seems to slide forward a bit, and lock-in. Is this how this works, or am I running the risk of damaging something?

 

3. On another note, I've been told you can use Intec heels with Fintec receivers, but not the other way around. Is this right, or do I have that backwards? And why? The only difference I notice is the Intec heels have plastic guide tabs(?) on them, where Fintec are metal.

 

Sorry for the dumb questions.

 

 

[ursle]

In the top picture the second foam piece is missing from under the left rubber sucker, unless it’s under the binding, best lay out everything to be sure. They go under the tow and heel of the binding on the plate or board, you can see them under the bindings in the background. The little nipples hold them in place, the binding is on a plastic lift and they take up the space under the tow and heel and are somewhat flexible.To adjust the bindings, with the boot clicked in, tighten the front binding slider screw gizmo until the front binding is engaged to the tightness you desire, it’s adjustable from very loose to very tight, sounds a bit loose now.

 

Edited November 6, 2017 by ursle

[ibrussell]

in pic 1 that setup would give you 5-6 deg heel lift. padded piece on heel non on toe. My TI's pads like those are flat whit no pads on either.  when you have bindings on the board and step in the toe bail should be more forward than pictured to step almost straight down.  Yes you can use fintec with intc heels but the heels will wear faster.

[drschwartz]

As to your other questions:

The pin on the boot hits the heel receiver and goes down the slant until the Intec pin engages the receiver. This will give you a "sliding forward" feeling and is normal.

Regarding the compatibility, plastic (Intec) mates smoothly with both aluminum and steel, but is not as durable as metal. Aluminum (Fintec) mates with steel, but binds up when trying to mate with aluminum heel receivers.

Doc

 

[Pat Donnelly]

Once you are set-up you may want to use 1 or 2 small pieces of electrical tape to further secure the center (cover) disc in place.  A cover can be kicked loose and disengage;  I did it once but was able to locate it on the next run.  Replacements are sold in sets for around $20.

[MNSurfer]

Thanks for all the helpful tips.

 

The bindings will literally go no wider/larger. They are at the end of adjustment. Fortunately, it works. I don't think there is any ability to tighten them. When the boot is engaged, yes, the toe bail moves forward a bit, but does not create any leeway for adjustment. Which I guess is fine. What do people with boots larger than M30's do? Probably ski.

 

Regarding the foam pad, it sounds like something was not shipped correctly? It makes sense to me that, regardless of use of heel cant, you'd want one beneath each heel and toe. So if you were to go without one of them... the rear toe?

 

I did notice that top cover piece feels kind of sloppy, and might require additional securement. All-in-all, and without riding them, I like the TD3 system better; Simple, few parts, metal. I just wish I had more confidence in actually being able to have gotten them.

 

 

[Bobby Buggs]

Ditch the foam pads and that riser ring, put the rubber right on the bottom of the bindings and mount them with shorter screws. Thank me later . Been riding this type of binding for 17 years and they have never failed me. All you need is a #3 Phillips and go. I had a set of those with the risers and you get much more feel of the board without them. Only difference is the foam pads and the riser ring. 

 

Edited November 7, 2017 by Bobby Buggs

[jburk]

What’s the minimum cant adjustment that can done with F2 bindings?  Are the wedges thin enough that you stack several up if needed, but can go with a single wedge for just 1-1.5 degree cant?  

I had a set of F2 bindings from the mid-90’s, and the cant wedges were so thick that it was an all or nothing affair at ~5 degrees, this was back when everyone thought inboard cant was a good thing. 

[Eric Brammer aka PSR]

Easy to 3-d print wedges to suit...

 

[pokkis]

5 hours ago, MNSurfer said:

Regarding the foam pad, it sounds like something was not shipped correctly? It makes sense to me that, regardless of use of heel cant, you'd want one beneath each heel and toe. So if you were to go without one of them... the rear toe?

Dont go without all of them. Those pieces are available as spare parts, if you dont get one lost.

Another option is to use only those low rubber pieces without center ring and with short screws, but then you loose flex you paid for.

[Bobby Buggs]

You might call it flex but I call it loss of feel 

[ursle]

11 hours ago, MNSurfer said:

Thanks for all the helpful tips.

 

The bindings will literally go no wider/larger. They are at the end of adjustment. Fortunately, it works. I don't think there is any ability to tighten them. When the boot is engaged, yes, the toe bail moves forward a bit, but does not create any leeway for adjustment. Which I guess is fine. What do people with boots larger than M30's do? Probably ski.

 

Regarding the foam pad, it sounds like something was not shipped correctly? It makes sense to me that, regardless of use of heel cant, you'd want one beneath each heel and toe. So if you were to go without one of them... the rear toe?

 

I did notice that top cover piece feels kind of sloppy, and might require additional securement. All-in-all, and without riding them, I like the TD3 system better; Simple, few parts, metal. I just wish I had more confidence in actually being able to have gotten them.

 

 

The Phillips screw that moves the front toe block is your adjustment, tighten it until the toe of the boot touches the binding, that’s to tight, loosen it until the toe of the boot has a fingers clearance, that’s to loose.

Yes, you need that foam piece, you can convert those to regular bindings but you need to replace the round steel piece, it’s four time heavier than the one the regular bindings use, also, the rubber pieces under toe and heel are thinner, without the correct pieces I don’t advise not using them without the black plastic riser, better to sell those and buy the regular F2’s.

the advantage of the F2’s is that you can stack blocks under the heel to get 8 degrees, or you can adjust the toe height for the front foot to any custom height, you can have no cant or stack the can’t wedges for 2-4-6 degrees of cant, and you can by adjusting the front binding placement have them very loose or very tight, so, the front foot is a bit tight, and the rear foot is a bit loose, custom adjustment. I sourced longer stainless bolts for the rear bindings, I stack two blocks and use one cant piece, as I remember the heel can be places in different spots, are your placed for the widest or largest placement?

 

Weight wise, the titan flex are almost as heavy as sidewinders.

Edited November 7, 2017 by ursle

[Neil Gendzwill]

I have two pairs of Titanflex and I like the foam risers. I find it hard to believe they are only a little lighter than Sidewinders. 

BTW the parts that count are metal and the TD3s aren't any simpler. 

The screws on the F2s are PoziDriv not Philips. Philips #3 will work. I got a PoziDriv screwdriver from YYZ because I'm anal like that. 

[Chouinard]

PoziDriv is a square cornered slot. Phillips is a tapered slot. Use a Phillips and risk stripping the PoziDriv fastener. I picked up a Burton snowboard multi-tool end of last season which included a #3 PoziDriv driver. Before that I struggled to find one locally.

[Bobby Buggs]

Well let me put it this way, I had the risers/foam pad set up and for Me its much better being closer to the board with less stuff under my feet. I had No problem converting them to standard flat to the board versions, there was really nothing to it.  Oh yeah, I dont race. 

Edited November 7, 2017 by Bobby Buggs

[Roadrunnertoao]

Just bought myself some F2 Intec Titanflex bindings too.

So it should also be possible to don't use the plastic riser en mount the bindings directly on the board?

[MNSurfer]

Side-by side, how I have they're almost exactly the same height, cant, etc., as my TD3's, and that's without using the risers. With the risers, it's like wearing high heels. Err, uh, so I'm told. Suppose I'll try it both ways. Yes, the F2's have a rubber bumper/ring on the bottom of the binding, so direct-to-board shouldn't be an issue.

 

I do like Bombers use of hex, vs. Phillips/PoziDrive. Just a preference.