Kerrc Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 Merry Christmas everyone. I'm about to buy a new board for my all mountain board. I was riding a Burton Super Model.( it is about 10 years old or more). I'm using soft boots at moment in this setup. I usually ride a proteus in hard boots on the blues. My question is. Do you guys ride hard boots on your all mountain boards. At lower angles. Or do you use soft boots. I could not mount my TD3 on my burton as different pattern. So was never able to ride hard boots. Just looking to see if I stay with soft boots or use my hard boots on the new board. also any suggestions for good soft boot binding. I usually try to ride my carving board most of the time. Thanks, sorry for long post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 Some ride HB and some prefer SB. Some seem to be able to handle trees and moguls easily and some (like me) can only do groomers on HB. As for the second question: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 3 hours ago, Kerrc said: ... I'm about to buy a new board for my all mountain board. I was riding a Burton Super Model.( it is about 10 years old or more). I'm using soft boots at moment in this setup. I usually ride a proteus in hard boots on the blues. My question is. Do you guys ride hard boots on your all mountain boards. At lower angles. Or do you use soft boots. I could not mount my TD3 on my burton as different pattern. So was never able to ride hard boots. Just looking to see if I stay with soft boots or use my hard boots on the new board. ... I rode a generation 1 Super Model (1997 vintage) with hard boots at the time. I ride Burton powder boards all the time, with F2 bindings which fit the pattern (3D for the old stuff or the newer channel). Those old Super Models are very outdated for powder; the generation 2 versions weren't popular in powder at all - we'd moved elsewhere by then. Modern boards are significantly shorter and would include taper etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
workshop7 Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 I ride soft boots just for the break from the stiff ankles. Don't get me wrong, I would always rather ride hardboots and a carve specific board on groomers than softboots. However, the relaxed feeling that softies can provide when I ride in powder or in the trees is a treat. For the last 10 years I have been on a Nitro 169 Pantera Wide for softboot days. That board is now my early season/rock board. I now have two new boards to pick from for the softboot days, a custom Flux 168/28 and a custom Nomad 170/27. I ride Burton Cartels on both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 (edited) I ride a forward stance on everything so I don't even use soft gear. Flexy hardshells at 25/40 degrees on 25 cm wide boards works the whole mt for me, but my bones don't do duckfooted gorrila stance so ymmv. Edited December 26, 2016 by b0ardski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmetroland Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 1 hour ago, Jim Callen said: I ride a 185 Rev on groomer days and on pow days I break out a 24cm waisted Nomad, dropping my angles to 45/40 from 60/55. Same boots, same bindings, Mr. Jim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 I run hard boots on Tanker that is a 24.5 cm waist. I run them 10 degrees shallower than my 21.5 cm waisted boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Just saw the "angles" part of the original question. Back in the day when race boards were narrow, the fashion was for high angles on piste... in those days I would mellow out my stance for powder. These days, I just ride the same stance (45 degrees parallel) for powder and piste. That way I don't have to adjust or change anything at all. Boots... you don't have to fasten them up much for powder really, but it's not a problem if you do. What makes a huge difference and something I find hugely annoying is that sometimes the boots flip into "walk mode" all on their own, and that really screws things up. It happened to me today.... something was wrong, and on inspection it was my rear boot in walk mode. I deduce from that that I probably require the back of the boots to keep me where I want to be: if the backs are not in the right place, it's harder for me to keep centred over the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamby Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 I ride Deelux 700s w/ bts on carving and powder boards. I love riding with hard boots and plate bindings on my powder set up. I used to ride a Super Model on powder days, but have moved to a 158 Burton Malolo and am so glad I did. I really like the way my Malolo rides. I ride a wide variety of boards. I enjoy riding in all conditions on all kinds of pistes. When I ride my 177 Prior FLC it is set up with Bomber TD3 with yellow rings and rather steep angles to avoid boot out. I ride burton race plates on soft carving decks on days when I want to play off piste here and there. (We change out our bales on the burton race plates periodically, as we find they fail after a few years of very heavy use). I like the soft playful feel I get with the ibex/burton race plates, but I feel they are too "light-duty" for really hard, aggressive carving. I use race plate bindings on my Malolo, as its an older deck w/ three hole pattern. would like to try some f2s, but not sure I can get three hole discs for those. I ride higher angles on narrower boards, and back off when riding my power board. Keep having fun and trying different set ups. Happy ripping in 2017! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 They used to make 3-hole disks for F2 - I had a pair, but I gave them away some years ago as you don't need them.... you can use the 4-hole plates out of the box, you just need to think a little about which screws to screw in where. From memory you can actually easily align the plates correctly too, so the angle indicators work correctly etc. The Malolo is a great board. I suppose the Landlord is the replacement - that's good too. I'm slightly less impressed with the Branch Manager, although that's a similar target audience I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamby Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 The out-of-the-box 4 hole discs will work on a three hole pattern Burton board?! Excellent. Thanks for this info philw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 I ride AT ski boots on everything. Walk mode at the rear, sometimes up front too. I use stiffer bindings on the carve only boards and softest I could find on pow/freeride setups. In OP's case Race Plates would do just fine. Angles I change to the board width. Just by the edge and 5deg splay on carvers. 15-20 degree of splay on freeride, rear boot just a bit of overhang, front boot on the edge or a bit of underhang. For teaching softy beginners, I ride duck (yes, harboots) but still slightly biased to my preferred leading foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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