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UPZ mod for tall feet


knobnose
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I have a very high instep and find it impossible to get into my UPZ boots unless they are kept quite warm in a heated boot bag, I will still sometimes scrape the top of my foot on the edge of the shell badly enough to need a bandaid. Once on they are the most comfortable boots I have ever used. Has anyone else with this problem found a solution to this delemma? Perhaps grinding the shell thinner for more flex or grinding grooves?

 

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I feel your pain, knobnose!  Same problem here.  I've shed blood.  Now I make sure I'm in the lodge for 15+ minutes before even trying to take off the boots.  Leaving the boot in a binding/board makes taking them off much easier, but it gets lots of funny looks.  

It looks like you could just drill out one rivet and cut the older tongues to use this to convert the boots: http://upzboots.com/shop/upz-single-rivet-tongue-conversion-kit/  I'm not 100% certain, but am seriously debating trying it.  

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Yes, don't let them get cold! Other than that, there's a certain twisting motion with your foot you learn while pulling the outer tongue away from the boot outward (two hand here, one on the tongue, one on the boot shell) to make maximum room for your instep. Don't pause halfway, though.

It gets easier after a few seasons. I'm to the point where it's rarely a problem. But it used to be a huge production.

Other tips:

1) unlock the forward lean. That facilitates the twisting motion.

2) pull up the rear of the liner about 3/4 of the way in

3) pull the liner tongue up, but not too much.

4) slippery socks! Smartwool liner socks, for example. Change into them just before you put the boots on.

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I'd say to just go for a ride.  ;)  Those bolts liked to loosen, until I put some Loctite 243 on them.  I still check them every day I ride out of habit.  

Did you use some high-strength threadlocker at one point?  

If you need to put a cheater-bar/tube on the little Torx key, I'd suggest finding a way to hold the internal nut so it doesn't strip out the plastic boot hole.  Channel-lock pliers, small adjustable wrench, etc.   I'd just leave the toe-bolt in place if it's that stuck, as there's a good chance that it won't make it out in one piece.  

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  • 3 weeks later...
On Friday, November 18, 2016 at 4:48 PM, corey_dyck said:

It looks like you could just drill out one rivet and cut the older tongues to use this to convert the boots: http://upzboots.com/shop/upz-single-rivet-tongue-conversion-kit/  I'm not 100% certain, but am seriously debating trying it. 

I bought the above kit. Getting the ankle screw out was tough as the T nut spun freely. A small adj. wrench helped greatly. 

Cutting the old tongue took some courage, but I found a box knife cut it quickly by rocking it instead of sliding it. 

This is a nice and easy upgrade for older boots! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

The 2016/2017 UPZ ankle straps are a very nice upgrade!  Coming in from -20C (-4F), I was able to undo the buckles, pull the tongue forward, and exit the boots with minimal drama.  I couldn't dream of taking them off for a good 20 minutes in the lodge before this mod.  Two thumbs up from me!  

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22 minutes ago, corey_dyck said:

What's changed?  Cut the springs out so they don't spring closed?  

Nah, as he said he's added hex screws (see below). These stick out which gives purchase for the outside end of the buckle end to rest on... pretty ingenious. 

 

2 hours ago, pokkis said:

As you see in pic, i replaced rivets with hex screw (M5X6 DIN 7984 A2), and just slightly used dremel to sharpen edge of buckle end.

 

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1 minute ago, corey_dyck said:

Why do you want the buckles to stay open more?  Easier to open between runs?  

I wish they were more flush when I'm on my Skwal!  They hit the snow pretty early. 

When you flip the tongue forward, put on the boot, and then try to hold the buckles out while putting the tongue back in place.  This would greatly assist in that endeavor.

I don't think this mod changes how much the buckle sticks out while in closed position at all.

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1 hour ago, corey_dyck said:

Why do you want the buckles to stay open more?  Easier to open between runs?  

I wish they were more flush when I'm on my Skwal!  They hit the snow pretty early. 

You need to source some of these and let us know how it works!  :ices_ange

bucklemech_MG_4267.jpg

Source- http://www.tetongravity.com/story/ski/la-sportiva-spectre-alpine-touring-boot-2013

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1 hour ago, lonbordin said:

When you flip the tongue forward, put on the boot, and then try to hold the buckles out while putting the tongue back in place.  This would greatly assist in that endeavor.

I don't think this mod changes how much the buckle sticks out while in closed position at all.

Oh, I see now!  

I just rotate the buckles (micro-adjuster) 90 degrees towards the toe.  They just move on their own as the tongue comes down.  

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  • 1 year later...

I was modifying some stiff tongues to try on my UPZs with the 2016+ tongue modification, so I made a video to help those that don't realize how easy it is: 

After making this, I realized that I should have recommended going straight to the adjustable wrench. The T-nuts are probably going to spin in the shell - better to prevent it. 

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2 hours ago, Corey said:

I was modifying some stiff tongues to try on my UPZs with the 2016+ tongue modification, so I made a video to help those that don't realize how easy it is: 

After making this, I realized that I should have recommended going straight to the adjustable wrench. The T-nuts are probably going to spin in the shell - better to prevent it. 

I'd add that you definitely want to keep some "ear" on the tongue. If you cut it too short you risk not covering the lower shell opening if you have wide feet. I just ran some sandpaper over the cut portion to smooth it out.

:biggthump

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