barryj Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 As long as I can remember I have always had binding suck of some form on all my boards, but now I have a brand new Moss Snowstick and it is a real noodle and I really don't think the idea of running plate bindings was ever considered in their R&D and was stressed I'd over torque the screws to the board so I choose to back off somewhat on tightening the binder down but I already have slight dimples showing up So is there a suggested lbs. of torque for the baseplate screws and how do I measure it?? Just had to post my new ride!! Some Stats: Moss Snowstick U-5 and this is Next Years Model!~ Length: 157 R.Length: 864. EF.Edge: 1060. Sidecut: 9800/6900. Nose/Tail: 310/292. Waist: 26.2 Stance Width: 540 (520-640) Set Back: -46.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colozeus Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 You would need a torque wrench to measure torque. You can pick one up at home depot but not sure if you can find the socket adapters needed for our screws. Though, i don't think bomber has ever published torque numbers. Honestly, i think that's overkill. Most modern boards can probably handle the screws being as tight as you can make them. if you are concerned, just back off a bit and carry the t handle with you in case the binding becomes lose on the slopes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 They (Bomber) do not want to specify a torque as the limiting factor is the board, not the binding. I've seen people use a simple screwdriver and make them snug. I've also seen people absolutely cranking on a T-handle. Both seem to work well. So pick something between those two and check them a few times on the first ride. The screws seem to be a great deal stronger than needed, so they are relatively lightly loaded and clamp load isn't critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Some Loc-Tite, teflon tape or even chapstick will help hold secure. Dimple suck is better than a nipple protruding from using screw that is too long (think speed bump). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 I haven't had binding suck on any board since I started loosening the binding screws before hot waxing. Seems to be the main cause of base suck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks guys. Next wax job I'll definitely try the loose screw technique! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Coefficient of thermal expansion; Base (poly) 60 Sidewall (abs) 41 Aluminum (titinal) 12.3 Epoxy 25-36 Stainless Steel 8-9 Wood 2'1 The big numbers expand the most small ones the least. The screws prevent the area around them from expanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 I have boards that have never been hotwaxed with bindings on that have binding suck. (I use a Wax Wizard almost exclusively) We put a lot of force on those screws. I assume the wood compresses a small amount and then settles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Man turns=binding suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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