oldjeep Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Just purchased a Lacroix Contest 180 with TD1 bindings on it. Thing is in pretty decent shape overall except some rust on the tail edges. My inclination is to get it stoneground and reset the edges just so that I know what the starting point is for maintaining the edges. Curious what kind of base and side angles people normally run on a fairly skinny skwal? I run 1/3 on my skis, seems like that would be ok for the skwal as well. Still need to do some binding adjustments, but I need to wait until some new hardware gets here for the back binding. It has some washers and bolts instead of the countersunk allen heads and they don't clear my boot soles. Thanks Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 I would run 0/0 , 90 degrees . Depends on how forgiving you want it to be? I wondered who won that !! I thought it was probably "ACE". Good value! Welcome to BOL!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monodude Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Just purchased a Lacroix Contest 180 with TD1 bindings on it. Thing is in pretty decent shape overall except some rust on the tail edges. My inclination is to get it stoneground and reset the edges just so that I know what the starting point is for maintaining the edges. Curious what kind of base and side angles people normally run on a fairly skinny skwal? I run 1/3 on my skis, seems like that would be ok for the skwal as well. Still need to do some binding adjustments, but I need to wait until some new hardware gets here for the back binding. It has some washers and bolts instead of the countersunk allen heads and they don't clear my boot soles. Thanks Chuck I run 1/3 on everything. Taking one off the base helps it to not be so "grabby" on run-outs/cat tracks and easier turn initiation. 3 off the sides gives you better bite on the firm. The edge doesn't last as long as 0/0 will though. Don Feed the Addiction... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 A little too old school for me. I was watching it though. On my Easy Jungle I run 89/.5 On my Virus skwal its 89/0. The .5 off the base edge of the Easy Jungle makes it a little more versatile for all mountain riding. I usually always polish them to near mirror finish every time I go out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 I run 90 because I keep stuff forever. As Brian said depends on how forgiving you want it to handle. I don't find the Skwals to be as tempemental as alpine boards. I have not had the opportunity to ride a titinal constructed Skwal. Riding a skwal feels very symmetrical as opposed to the asymmetrical ride of an alpine snowboard. In my opinion detuning and edge angle are not as critical for a skwal to feel correct but it will assist you from experiencing some exciting moments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 (edited) I would run 0/0 , 90 degrees . Depends on how forgiving you want it to be? I wondered who won that !! I thought it was probably "ACE". Good value! Welcome to BOL!!! Haven't ever tried 0/0 even on my monoskis, wonder what that would feel like. My snow skis are all beer league race skis at 1/3 so I'm set up to tune that easily. This will be used on MN icepack. I don't snowboard, so I'm not sure what is common on them. Plan on getting the rear binding as close to 0 as I can stand so that it is more like my waterski. Edited June 18, 2015 by oldjeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Unless your waterski bindings are as firm as hard boots you might want to rethink the 0 plan. I found 0-0 on both binding made for twitchy muscles and torn hamsting. You may find the skwal may give a little more resistance to forces than the water ski. Have fun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Looks like we are perhaps mixing binding angles with edge angles ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) No, just talking about 2 things in one post. 1/3 for base/edge angles is my plan 0 degree front boot and somewhere near 0 - whatever is comfortable for the rear. Most stuff I've found says that 3-5 is reasonable, but I can't try that out until the new bolts get here. When I got it the rear was set somewhere around 15 degrees which seems a little extreme and gets the boot heel way out there. Definitely will be bringing a wrench the first time I get to actually try it out so that adjustments can be made on the fly. Edited June 19, 2015 by oldjeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 What you have there are TD1's but not Skwal base plate your never going to get close to 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monodude Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I run Catek's on all my skwals. Lots of tinkering but when they are right, they are right. I run them 0/0. approx 3* toe lift and 7* or 8* heel lift with a little bit of canting. I also use ski boots. I'm trying some UPZ'S with intecs. More forward lean than my Nordica's so I can back off on the heel lift. I love the step-in/out capability. Don Feed the Addiction... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 What you have there are TD1's but not Skwal base plate your never going to get close to 0. Why not, the front one is set at 0 ? What would keep them from going to or near 0? And what is different about a skwal base plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I run Catek's on all my skwals. Lots of tinkering but when they are right, they are right. I run them 0/0. approx 3* toe lift and 7* or 8* heel lift with a little bit of canting. I also use ski boots. I'm trying some UPZ'S with intecs. More forward lean than my Nordica's so I can back off on the heel lift. I love the step-in/out capability. Don Feed the Addiction... The front binding on mine is mounted flat. The rear has some heel lift to it, not sure how much and I haven't taken it apart yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) OK, should have taken the 5 minutes to pull them off. Now I see what the deal is. The front disc is mounted at an angle so that the front binding can be 0 degrees. The rear disc is mounted in what I assume is the normal manner and it doesn't allow the rear binding to get any straighter than it is. The bolts and washers the previous owner used look like an attempt to get as much adjustment as possible. The rear disc is a 3 degree I assume since it has a 3 on it. So it appears that I either need to remount the disc in the rear (cant would be in wrong direction or get something different that positions the top side mounting holes like the front one is mounted. Could I swap on one of these in the back? http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Skwal-Base-Plate_p_111.html Edited June 20, 2015 by oldjeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Looks like mud wasps have had secure place to hide. Put a shout out to BOL member Beckman he may be able to help with suggestions. If you have access to a drill press or some hand tools you could fabricate a new piece for the rear. Some type of angled or wegde shaped aluminum piece you could drill and tap to your liking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 It looks like there are already 4 holes drilled to turn the disc 45-degrees. Try it with outward cant on your rear foot before dismissing it. A little carpet surfing should reveal if it's a good or bad idea. EDIT: Ignore that. I forgot that those are the TD1 baseplate holes. It looks like they mounted the front cant disc using ski screws to the topsheet. I did the same for the edges as I do for all my boards - .5 base and 88 side. It was pretty squirrely/nervous with no base bevel before I tuned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantok Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 1/3 deg is worth a try. 0.5 Base bevel was good for me. I unknowingly had a shop put on 1 deg and found it really nervous. 0 deg was ok on a Volkl Monocarver but was frightening on a (more aggressive) MPride skwal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawndoggy Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 See OJ I told ya the BOL guys know what's up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 The TD1s you have there will only go so far without going totally with a custom baseplate to try and achieve that extreme forward angle. You need TD1 SKWAL specific bindings(very rare). The screw slots are rotated 45*. The TD2/3 Skwal top plate will not fit a TD1. Totally different design. I would look into getting another set of bindings that are narrow enough for that board, but also allow the extreme forward angles you are trying to achieve. The old Thias SnowPro would be a great starting point as far as cost goes. They sometime turn up here, and maybe a WTB thread will turn some up out of someones closet. They still sell SnowPros out of UPZ... http://upzboots.com/product-category/bindings/ There are probably a few other binders out there that might fit, but that should be a good starting point to get to where you ultimately want to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 (edited) An adapter plates can be made so standard td1 bindings can be used as a skwal td1 binding and used at zero. 3/8" aluminum plate. mark drill and tap. I should get a close up pic of what goes on. Give me a day or two. Also, you might consider using flat head screws instead of the screws with washers, the countersunk arcs will most likely get all bunged up in short time, then your done for the day...!. What are they..? M10 flatheads? x20mm or x16mm...?? Edited November 20, 2015 by RobertAlexander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monodude Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 OldJeep, I have 2 sets of Thias Skwal bindings. They have approx. 3* lift in both toe and heel. One set is new and has a plastic "body" it is marked "new style" and the other is very lightly used Sno Pro type. $100 + shipping Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Just got back to looking at this thread. Took the board to my race ski tuning shop, it was very base high. Had it ground and the side edge set at 3, base edge is a radial/progressive angle. I'm going to give it a shot with the bindings how they currently are and then go from there. Now all we need is some snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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