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Loctite blue cracked my last binding disc plate. Anyone use it for F2/Proflex bindings?


Mr_Orange

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I used loctite blue on my Rome 390 boss strap binding disc plate screws in the past and it created all these cracks in the plastic disc plate and made it crumble to pieces.

 

I looked it up and apparently loctite blue does react badly to certain types of plastics.

 

I also know people who have used them successfully on otherbindings though.

 

My current Proflex bindings have plastic disc plates and i want something to give them a secure mount.

 

Has anyone used loctite blue on the plastic disc plates on proflex or f2 bindings?

 

Are there better alternatives to loctite blue?

 

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Perhaps try not to get it on the plastic?  Couple drops is all that is needed, in fact , I have not seen the need?  

I think the last mention of using this product , it was suggested to put a drop on the side of the threads and let it set. Then thread it in? 

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Thanks. Looked into the beeswax. 

 

Most people say it's a screw 'lubricant'. What's the logic of using an lubricant vs something like an adhesive (i'm assuming that's what loctite is) for screws. I've always wondered about this when putting grease on bolts for bike parts too. Shouldn't the greasiness make the screw easier to come loose?

 

I though about doing just a very small dab of loctite in each hole but wasn't sure if even the fumes from it would react to the plastic.

I'll probably try letting the loctite dry first method.

 

I remember when the disc cracked it wasn't subtle. It was like the loctite infected the whole thing. 

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I'm not a fan of any threadlocker on binding mounting screws. Too much risk with plastic topsheets and other parts in the area, not to mention the risk of spinning inserts.

I haven't encountered a binding that doesn't stay tight after a couple of re-torques of the screws in the first day of use. Maybe I'm just lucky...

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Tried teflon tape on other stuff before. I noticed when when i unscrewed something with the teflon tape applied, the teflon tape seems to be bunched up towards one end. Like the screw just pushed it away instead of pinching it. Isn't that stuff designed for plumbing parts with much larger threads?

 

So far grease sounds pretty good, but in that other thread, someone said you can potentially tighten so much that parts get crushed.

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I found this thread which shows what happened to my plastic binidngs: http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/254776-Has-anyone-had-binding-plastic-crack-when-using-loctite-for-plates-or-inserts

 

It seems like many people on tt recommend Vibratite vc-3 as an alternative to loctite if you're going to go the threadlocker route.

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The F2s I have use titanium plates, not plastic. You could switch to metal plates I suppose.

 

As far as bolts and grease.. if you grease the surfaces then that reduces the friction, hence as stated above it reduces the torque you need to apply to get a given force through the bolt. So instead of fighting friction, you're actually tightening the thing up.

 

In my experience though none of this needs to be hysterically tight though, it all just works. I think people often over fuss about stuff like this. I suppose I know by experience roughly how much torque I need, and now I don't even both checking the bolts as they're always fine.

 

I would not use fancy stuff (tools or chemicals) on my snowboard gear anyway as I may well want dick around with things on the hill, where I have probably just a Leatherman. So that's what I use to set mine, the same thing I'm expecting to need to tweak it with.

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I have never had an issue with my F2s loosening up and I don't use any loctite or lube. I just tighten them up like I would a set of lug nuts - you have to work through the pattern a few times until there's no more slop. I tighten them pretty hard by hand. IIRC if you use lube it will let you overtighten.

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It seems like many people on tt recommend Vibratite vc-3 as an alternative to loctite if you're going to go the threadlocker route.

 

I was underwhelmed with my Vibratite experience. Used as recommended on a pair of Ride El Hefes and the screws worked themselves free with a couple hours. Granted (duh) the temp on the hill was lower than at the house and (even duh-er, I didn't re-tighten), but I wouldn't buy a second tube of it. Ooh, maybe I'll post the remaining .25 ounces on the For Sale thread...

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So has anyone actually had a baseplate screw come lose on them?  In 22 years of riding, it's never happened to me, either with plastic soft boot bindings, or metal hard boot plates.  My question to Mr. Orange is, if you're that concerned about them backing out that you use a thread locker, are you also torquing them to the proper spec with a torque screwdriver?  

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I mentioned above that I'm mainly concerned because i've pulled bolts in and out of the same inserts as a result of trying out different bindings and angles and yes, that has caused my bindings to come loose on a previous board before. Sometimes you notice that it's just 2 of the 4 bolts that are loose, so it seems like it's already on it's way there. And I had no knowledge of what the proper torque amount might be.

 

So it's more because the inserts are a bit worn out already.

 

Before i was actually able to resolve this issue by getting the disc to a stance position where you can put in 8 screws per disc instead of 4, but I can't really do that now with the stance that i want.

 

Already ordered the vibratite. We'll see how it goes.

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So has anyone actually had a baseplate screw come lose on them?

 

Yes, see post directly to the north. For some reason, my Ride bindings are always scheming to escape the board. I've used Vibratite, teflon tape and as much torque as I'm comfortable applying on Phillips head screws, but the aluminum "mini-disks" have worked loose under all these conditions.

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