jburrill Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Any ideas out there? I know a few of you guys use ski boots. I would like to further tweak my Dalbello Kryptons and would appreciate some ideas. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 If you want more forward flex you can cut off some of the rear of the top of the lower boot... know what I mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoffV Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Oh just find Mr. Beckmann at the Loaf, he has some tricked out ski-boots. He's got a nickname because of his boots:eplus2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnaud Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Maybe you could remove some plastic .... here is the tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33459 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 What do you like about your boots at present? What do you want to change, and why, in your estimation, does it need changing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Throw them into the garage and buy snowboard boots. He is racing. I hear racers are particular about boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburrill Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I started on ski boots and went back to these 2 yrs ago. I like the power from ski boots. They dont collapse or break down. The fit from these are near perfect. I get all the power I need from these. I get more progressive forward flex in these than new Deluxes. Unless its warm out, there isnt much rearward flex unless I loosen the top buckle and use the Booster strap (which works well). My only complaint is the loss of mobility especially laterally. When the boots are tightened, my binding/angles have to be right on or I feel out of whack. But isnt that carve gear in a nutshell. I have not modified these at all except for removing the flex adjusting shim in the back/inside of the boot. Looks like they are fine they way they are I guess. If I could modify them at all I would want to increase lateral flex if possible. Yeah, ski boots are less versetile than Snowboard specific boots, but if its anything less than stellar carving conditions I'd be on softies anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Have not disassembled a pair of Kryptons, but if the cuff rivets are true to the design of the original Raichle Flexons, you could rig a floating rivet on either side, depending on where, and how much flex you want. Adjustability/ tuning in the field might be an issue. Back around '96, I gained lateral flex on my rear boot by removing the sliding rivet assembly, and using a short length of cable up the outside of the cuff to control medial travel. Worked rather well, but would never pass the fashion test today. You can get a similar effect with the Sidewinder, by using a stiff pad medial, and a soft pad lateral; the primary disadvantage is the 'wobble' is well below the 'roll axis' of the ankle joint. This kind of flex is 'non-intuitive', whereas if you make use of the cuff rivets, the shell movement more or less mirrors the movement of your body. Whether you go the Sidewinder route, or modify the cuff rivet, I would start with the rear boot. A little give there might be all you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I have not modified these at all except for removing the flex adjusting shim in the back/inside of the boot. Are you talking about the "bridge" that slips into the recess on the cuff behind the liner? I don't know what your boots came with, but I got a pair of wider (stiffer) bridges and a pair of narrower (softer) bridges. I made my own forward lean shim and took out the wide bridge because it didn't fit anymore. But the boot shell seemed to not like that and it had a weird collapsing-type feel to it, so I trimmed the wider bridge down like 3mm on both sides and now it's perfect. I don't like the boots at all without the wider bridges in place..Unlike AF and SB shells, the cuff rivets are in a logical spot and it's too much of a hinged feel instead of the snappy movement derived from flexing the shell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabealpiner Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hi, I am looking to get used board with TD2's and am planning to use my dads old ski boots on them. Can anyone tell me if they are compatible? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yes. I'd recommend adding the suspension kit or replacing the elastomer and center disks with TD3 ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburrill Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 If it wernt for Sidewinders I wouldnt be using Dalbellos. Im leaving them just the way they are for now. Thanks for all the input. Any normal ski boot should be compatible with Bombers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi,I am looking to get used board with TD2's and am planning to use my dads old ski boots on them. Can anyone tell me if they are compatible? Thanks How often do you get into Vancouver? If you want to try your boots in a pair of TD2s. I can loan you some to try? I would you and your Dad find some good used snowboard boots to try also. Allot of reasons to go with special purpose boots. I ride during the week at Meadows. Bryan Check out the ride board for MHM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR. JOHN DEERE ! Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks jb you just helped me !!!!! : Like anything else, there is definatley a give and take. With the dalbello's the power I can generate with the rigidness of them is second to none. I remember making some of my 1st turns on a steeper pitch, and I said to one of my buddies that I was scaring myself. I love the forward flex, the lateral stiffness and the idea that I won't have to buy a pair of new boots every year! The drawbacks are, when it gets choppy, they are so stiff your are feeling every bump, or pile of soft snow. The backward flex is still a little iffy, ive tried all the different heel shims and the different tongues. The actual length of a ski boot compared to the same sized snowboard hard boot is a pain in the a$$. So like I've told my buddies, you better be prepared to start buying + 20cm wide boards, if you don't want rear boot over hang. I agree with your binding angles have to be spot on, or you feel all Fhucked up. All in all I'm happy with the dalbello's. compared to a snowboard boot when it's not 20 out it turns into cake batter. Plus teaching my daughter to ski, it's nice to just have to be pissed about being on ski's, and not a pair of not broken in ski boots. What I took out of this thread was the bridge that pinches the plastic just above the achilles, I haven't touched since the day I got them. I'm wondering if I pull those out, if it will help with my backward flex?? QUOTE=jburrill;367167]I started on ski boots and went back to these 2 yrs ago. I like the power from ski boots. They dont collapse or break down. The fit from these are near perfect. I get all the power I need from these. I get more progressive forward flex in these than new Deluxes. Unless its warm out, there isnt much rearward flex unless I loosen the top buckle and use the Booster strap (which works well). My only complaint is the loss of mobility especially laterally. When the boots are tightened, my binding/angles have to be right on or I feel out of whack. But isnt that carve gear in a nutshell. I have not modified these at all except for removing the flex adjusting shim in the back/inside of the boot. Looks like they are fine they way they are I guess. If I could modify them at all I would want to increase lateral flex if possible. Yeah, ski boots are less versetile than Snowboard specific boots, but if its anything less than stellar carving conditions I'd be on softies anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Jd- removing the bridge wont change the backward flex. you control that with the hard limits set by the forward lean wedge. You could make a bumper from an elastomer instead of a hard stop though. No clue how you would fashion the tabs though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 The backward flex is still a little iffy... I'm wondering if I pull those out, if it will help with my backward flex?? JB, MJD, KC; under what circumstances do you find rearward flex desirable/useful? Have you tried the Dalbello with a TD3std up front, and Sidewinder in back? wannabealpiner, If you are determined to use a ski boot, don't waste your time with the TNT. Among other failures of the marque, the scafo is too tall, which inhibits any flex the boot might otherwise provide. If your circumstances preclude a 'real' snowboard boot, check the used sporting goods stores (or transfer stations) for a pair of Raichle Flexons, or just about any 4 buckle overlap (other than Tecnica) with cuff rivets close to the ankle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Honestly, the only time I find it coming into play is when my tail slaps the knuckle on a bigger jump and the nose shoots down..that give keeps you in the drivers seat. My boots have no rearward flex though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger jr Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Nice cuff mod Beckman. Care to elaborate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR. JOHN DEERE ! Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 JB, MJD, KC; under what circumstances do you find rearward flex desirable/useful? every turn. When I am transitioning from my heel side to my toe side I desire rearward flex. Sometimes I feel like I'm getting stuck in between my turns, when before I could flip the board from edge to edge on my heel side to toe side transition allot faster than my toe side to heel side transition. What I mean by rear ward flex, the dalbello's aren't as quick to get back up out of forward flex as the Deeluxe's were, probably due to the fact that the Dalbello's don't have a spring in the back assisting you to get the boot back upright. I noticed that the stiffer tongues, help with it, but I'm still not 100% dialed in yet. I probably only have about 5-8 full day's days of riding on them. Have you tried the Dalbello with a TD3std up front, and Sidewinder in back? I have not, I did switch to the soft yellow elastomer with my TD3's, I like the yellows better than the reds. I wasn't a huge fan of the TD3 Side Winders, IMO I felt they were too squishy for my style, and I was having tons of hip issues while I owned them. My biggest issue, is initiating my heel sides, and sometimes I feel like I'm getting stuck in my heel side to toe side transitions like i mentioned above. I need more time on the snow, and I have to retrain muscles how to start a heel side. I was in the Raichle AF700/Indy/Deeluxe Indy since 2002, set up the same exact way for almost 10 years, I was kind of expecting some technique changes. What I am not going to miss having to buy new boots every 50 days, overnighting boots to my final destination, while finding that my currents boots would be cracked in half, while packing for a trip. It was awful, the amount of freight I would have to pay, so trips wouldn't be wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 What I mean by rear ward flex, the dalbello's aren't as quick to get back up out of forward flex as the Deeluxe's were, probably due to the fact that the Dalbello's don't have a spring in the back assisting you to get the boot back upright. Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking that you wanted your boot to flex 'back of upright', and that seemed a bit odd. If I read correctly then, you suffer a time delay due to your cuffs remaining flexed when you would prefer they were not. And that creates a bit of a 'cascade' with regard to timing and accuracy from one turn to the next? (Had this problem with my telemark boots, and adapted the spring mechanism from an old pair of Dynafit 3F ski boots.) Relatively easy to build something similar for your Dalbellos. The unit on my rear boot could be simplified quite a bit. digger jr, The floating pivot is a .250 inch spherical rod end, a short section of .250 inch stainless rod, three clamping thrust collars, a slider block and a bracket. The idea is for the board to 'run true' without torsional distortion. When I set the collars to the appropriate locations, the boot cuffs at front and rear foot will provide 'equal' support; ensuring that the board meets the snow at the appropriate angle, regardless of leg flexion/extension. With the rod end pivot at the 'ankle joint' the boot cuff may flex in accord with, rather than in opposition to, the joint itself. This in turn reduces tension/leverage on the articulations of the joint, such that turn initiation is the result of inversion/eversion of the foot, rather than outsized movements at the knee and/or hip. The gap between the slider block and stop collars allows for a bit of 'Elvis Leg' when necessary. With one of these on the front boot medial side, and one each medial/lateral on the rear boot, baselining is an absolute pain. When properly adjusted, I see, among other things, a drastic reduction in muscular output,enhanced range of motion, and longer intervals between edge tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabealpiner Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 @ Blue B Thanks for the reply. Apparently after re-checking today the bindings are the step in TD2's. The ski boots I would be using are TNT carbons. I'm just guessing that step in boots would not be compatible with the step ins. Am I wrong? @ oldsnowboards I would have to check about driving the car up on weekdays, but I do have some time during the week. It would be great to get up and meet with you sometime. The bindings I'm looking at are step ins. I don't think ski boots will work. I thought they were bailed TD2's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 No, your ski boots are not going to be step in compatible. Do you know your Mondo Size?? Are you willing to use real snowboard boots if you had them available?? Measure your foot using bomber onlines instructions. I am looking to get used board with TD2's and am planning to use my dads old ski boots on them. Can anyone tell me if they are compatible? Thanks Email me with your phone number. I will call when I can and help you through the choices. Is your "Board with Bindings" a done deal? I can help perhaps with some trades to make it all work. Send a photo or link to what you are buying?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 B-mannAG: I'm sure the pennies are part of the final design Now how am I supposed to decide on new boots. I was about to pull the trigger on some new FullTilt Seth Morrisson's and now am reconsidering. I'd prefer not to do any heavy mods to get the upgraded ride I'm looking for. The Deeluxes are adequate, but I would prefer a stiffer flex and some additional lateral stiffness (not to mention a better fit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 B-mannAG: I'm sure the pennies are part of the final design The copper is metaphor for the cost/benefit analysis of successful boot modification. Now how am I supposed to decide on new boots. I was about to pull the trigger on some new FullTilt Seth Morrisson's and now am reconsidering. I'd prefer not to do any heavy mods to get the upgraded ride I'm looking for. The Deeluxes are adequate, but I would prefer a stiffer flex and some additional lateral stiffness (not to mention a better fit). You can spend some time up front modifying your boots, or you can spend a little time on every turn adapting for what the boots won't provide. The 'unknown' is whether or not the Full Tilts will work for your chosen mode of riding. The 'known' on the other hand, is that the Deeluxe leaves you wanting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.