queequeg Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 - Are these Flo Liners actually heat moldable (aka Thermoflex, shove them in an oven)? Not really no, they're supposed to mold to your feet over several days of riding. I've heard of people speeding the process up with a bit blow dryer heat prior to riding. But they're not really heat moldable liners. For me they felt horrible enough on the first day that I decided to spare myself the break in period and get some thermo liners. Regarding the difficulty you are having getting in and out: The Dalbello Gold ID liner has a satin-y material on the inside that makes slipping your foot in and out very easy. It is an awesome liner to boot. I slip on my UPZ like slippers now that I have that liner in there. - And am I the only one that can't get the liner out without removing the tongue (and two screws)? I didn't have that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 I hate getting these boots on and off too! But they're so nice once on (for my foot shape) that it's worth it. When mine are cold (-10F and below) I just can't get them off. I sit in the lodge for a while to let them warm up, then try again. I didn't like the FLO liners either, I changed them for some Intuition Alpines that I already had. I found a good way to remove the liners without pulling the tongue: I clip the boot into a board and stand on the board. Then pull the boot cuff mostly forwards and just a little bit upwards while wiggling side to side. It starts to walk out pretty quickly. If you haven't already heard; apply some blue (temporary) loctite to all the screws. I also check the screws before every day of riding just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmc Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Wow, lots of great info here. I've also found that the included Flo Liner is quite thinly padded at the heel—right at the point where the Intec cable comes up through the pre-drilled hole. It was creating a pressure point that became annoying after about 4-5h of continous hard riding. Despite my attempts to push it out of the way, i'm still stuck with where the cable comes up through the boot. Anyone else have this issue? Ream the hole out perhaps? Pad the cable with something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Pad the cable with something? Pad the cable with a thermo liner. I replaced my FLOs with Deeuxe 141 themoliners. Super easy to take the boots on and off now as well. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Wow, lots of great info here.I've also found that the included Flo Liner is quite thinly padded at the heel—right at the point where the Intec cable comes up through the pre-drilled hole. It was creating a pressure point that became annoying after about 4-5h of continous hard riding. Despite my attempts to push it out of the way, i'm still stuck with where the cable comes up through the boot. Anyone else have this issue? Ream the hole out perhaps? Pad the cable with something? yeah, I had to dremel a little to make the cable not hurt. be careful though there are some thin spots on that shell in that area if I remember correctly. just a FYI the foam injection liners with the UPZs are pretty decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeGogoussier Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 On the first two days with my RC10s I endured excruciating pain around the heels because the gel inside the Flo liner walls got packed at the bottom as I put the boots on. That would pinch my heels like a vise and it was evident that there was no way the gel could flow back UP against my weight and mold to my feet as they were really squished in there. Solution: Now I put on the Flo liners first (OUTSIDE THE SHELL) then I slip my foot into the shell with the liner on. This can be done by opening the boot cuff sideways and pulling the plastic tongue OVER the cuff. It works like a charm; my boots now feel like slippers and hold my ankles just perfectly. To remove the boots I do the reverse procedure and pull my foot out WITH the liner. I do get funny looks at times but it is a small price to pay for comfort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Race_Carver Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 On the first two days with my RC10s I endured excruciating pain around the heels because the gel inside the Flo liner walls got packed at the bottom as I put the boots on. That would pinch my heels like a vise and it was evident that there was no way the gel could flow back UP against my weight and mold to my feet as they were really squished in there.Solution: Now I put on the Flo liners first (OUTSIDE THE SHELL) then I slip my foot into the shell with the liner on. This can be done by opening the boot cuff sideways and pulling the plastic tongue OVER the cuff. It works like a charm; my boots now feel like slippers and hold my ankles just perfectly. To remove the boots I do the reverse procedure and pull my foot out WITH the liner. I do get funny looks at times but it is a small price to pay for comfort. That's what I do too. Actually, this is exactly what you need to do to get race plug ski boots on/off too, so inserting/removing the liner with your foot is really not that uncommon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmc Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 yeah, I had to dremel a little to make the cable not hurt. be careful though there are some thin spots on that shell in that area if I remember correctly. Would you happen to have any photos of said modification? I had a peek inside mine—you're right, the thinness of the shell makes me a little leery of Dremeling away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Would you happen to have any photos of said modification?I had a peek inside mine—you're right, the thinness of the shell makes me a little leery of Dremeling away. later today I can post a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 First off... the boot is super easy to take off IF you unlock the rear mechanism BEFORE trying to tear the boot off your foot. Easy peazy lemon squeezy. Hmm, I think this is something I've _NOT_ done ever since I got my first red UPZ boots back in 2004. I'm gonna try this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmc Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Just resurrecting an old thread to add some more anecdotal information. It's no secret that the RC-10 is a stiff boot. I am 175cm/65kg (5'9" 145lbs) and on cold days, the stiffness doesn't allow for very laid back riding. So I got a set of the red tongues—apparently 100 flex index vs. the included black 110 flex. Aside from being a little funny looking, holy crap, what a huge difference! The boots are considerably easier to get on and off now. Flex in walk mode with loosened buckles seems almost soft enough to make these viable for the powder board. I'd say these are almost mandatory for lighter weight riders. Another issue I've been dealing with was the Intec cable pressuring my heel through the thin race-like liner. There isn't much material there in the UPZ liner, so no matter where I moved the cable, it hurt like hell after a few hours. So following an idea I read somewhere on BOL, I put a piece of felt next to the cable. It protrudes about the same amount, but now distributes the pressure over a wider area and thus alleviates some of the concentrated pressure. I can still feel the presence of the "lump" through the liner, especially when cranking the buckles down, but it's much more bearable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 It seems like the UPZ's have approx. 3deg LESS heel height. As I put my head boot on my front foot and the UPZ on the rear foot which has the footbed, and a 10mm dense foam heel wedge. and NOW they feel about level with each other. SOOoooo, that would mean I need another 10mm wedge to make it like it was with the Head boot was naturally. Today, I tried UPZ boots. Previously owned Raichle/Deeluxe & HSP. I usually ride 3 degree toe lift on front and 6 degree heel lift on rear with cants (for all other boots). After reading your post last night, I took out lift/cant wedges (F2) of front binding on Madd and rode. My stance seemed little too wide (54cm) but other than that, it was right on. For another deck, I left my normal setup alone (TD3, 3/6 lift). Couldn't dial in. Heelside was too much but couldn't do toeside like what I did on Madd 10 min. ago. I adjusted the front bindings to 3 heel lift on heel for front and left 6 degree heel lift on rear since I didn't carry 0 degree cant disk. then heelside suffered. What's your bindings lift/cant setup on UPZ (RC-10)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flywalker Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 What's your bindings lift/cant setup on UPZ (RC-10)? Burton bindings 7* wedge on the back foot flat up front with 2, 1 mm sheets of plastic under the toe block giving a slight lift. Works great. l run red tongues all the time for all conditions on the same grey boot as earlier pictured. Unlocked for pow and locked for groomed. Perfect for me at a shade under 80kgs without gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Burton bindings 7* wedge on the back foot flat up front with 2, 1 mm sheets of plastic under the toe block giving a slight lift. Works great. l run red tongues all the time for all conditions on the same grey boot as earlier pictured. Unlocked for pow and locked for groomed. Perfect for me at a shade under 80kgs without gear. Does the setup also work with other boots like Deeluxe/HSP, if you had? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOODTYPEZX10R Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I must say that last year I had a very difficult time getting set up-to the point that I gave up and went back to an old board and boots (same bindings and same set on bindings) and worked my way though a few boards with my old Riachle boots. Everything was fine. I finished the season with that set up. Over the summer I has removed my bindings and on the shelf they sat until a few weeks ago. I grabbed my new board, hovered the bindings over the board and put them-right-there. It is perfect. I have never had such a good time. I hated the boots last year and was moving all over the place. I really hated my Riachle boots because in a hard carve the buckle would come undone. The stiffer UPz's are what I needed. I wish I could say for sure what the difference was because I have made no changes to lift or cant. Initially I set the boots up on the center line of the boot and was forever changing position, angle. Set the boots up for center of the board-not center of the boot. I feel that my stance in a little closer that in past. I am 6'2' and my stance is 17.5". This past Saturday I was laying down the most extreme carves I have ever done. I know the set up with these boots can be frustrating-but there is hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flywalker Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Does the setup also work with other boots like Deeluxe/HSP, if you had? No idea. Previous boots were Burtons and l had a 3* rear cant and no toe lift up front. My stance was also 48cm and now it's 51cm. l'm 5'10"(178cm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flywalker Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Set the boots up for center of the board-not center of the boot. I feel that my stance in a little closer that in past. I am 6'2' and my stance is 17.5". This past Saturday I was laying down the most extreme carves I have ever done. I know the set up with these boots can be frustrating-but there is hope. ?????????? Dude my wife is 5'1" and her stance is 17" l am 5'10" and my stance is 20.5". You may want to look at that again. l just changed my stance this season by adding almost an inch and more rear cant and it is much better. Pay no attention whatsoever to the center marking on the boot. Center the binding on the board and center the toe/heel blocks on the binding and forget about whether or not the boot center mark lines up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOODTYPEZX10R Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 17.5" center of binding to center of binding. if you are referring to me. I thought we were trying to help piusthedrcarve. Maybe that closer stance was what I needed. From last year to this I went from hating the UPZ's to liking them very much. If you want exact measurements I will get them. As I had said I have made no changes whatsoever in cant or lift from Raichle 123 to UPZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 ??????????Dude my wife is 5'1" and her stance is 17" l am 5'10" and my stance is 20.5". You may want to look at that again. l just changed my stance this season by adding almost an inch and more rear cant and it is much better. Pay no attention whatsoever to the center marking on the boot. Center the binding on the board and center the toe/heel blocks on the binding and forget about whether or not the boot center mark lines up. As far as I know, widening stance is for riding bomber style which is critical to lower the center of mass to pressure edges. If one chooses surf style or extremecarving, widening stance doesn't help. it's preference. I do prefer bomber style and mine is at 54cm currently and happy with my stance width on most of decks but not Madd. I will shorten and see if it makes any better. As your recommendation, I will set them up and try center bindings next time and will report back to ya~. Thanks for advice. Flywalker & BloodType Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flywalker Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 OK gotcha... No need for exact measurements. lf that works for you then it's all good. l tried using my old stance l had with the Burton boots and my legs felt totally blocked in the UPZ's. lt may be due to being... or feeling... like there is more natural forward lean in the boot than my old Reactors. After l spread my feet and added the bigger cant everything improved. l suppose it could be an interesting experiment to remove the cant altogether and bring my legs closer together. l'd get more flex out of the board, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOODTYPEZX10R Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 So I made some measurements just so you could make some comparisons. Stance= 17" or 43.2cm 174 length board, Thirst 7 snowboard (I've made my own boards since 1980) been hardshelling since 1992. 164 effective edge 4.5cm set back to waist 16.7cm center of board to center of front binding 26.4cm center of board to center of rear binding rear foot 67* rear foot heal lift 3/4" of 19mm front foot 60* front foot toe lift 1/4" or 6mm no cant at all on front or rear foot, when I ride I lock my front boot in the most upright position and rear foot in the forward most lean position. I know you will get set up-I had serious doubts last season. I assure you I am having a blast now. Don't give up these boots are very good (a little cold though). I hope these measurements will help-I think they will help me since I really have never recorded any of the particulars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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