Some naiive questions on gear acquired. Help please!

[AussieCarver]

Hi everyone,

Still a new guy, but learning fast here in Australia. Have a couple of questions about gear that I have:

Warren, one of the BOL members here in Melbourne, has generously donated a board to me, which is just amazing. The board is a Prior WCR 167 and looks to me to be pretty racey. I'd appreciate any info on the board beyond what I know above.

Warren also gave me some Blax step in bindings for the board:

Which is also extremely generous (the carving community might be small down here, but it's pretty damn helpful). Warren said I might need to get some bits and pieces to get these bindings working again. First thing he said was one of the centre bolts might be a little threaded, so I might need to replace it (he couldn't recall which one was threaded, but I guess I should find out if I can get replacement parts for this online). It also looks to me that there is a dark plastic piece missing from the heel (see the left hand side of the binding on right). Does it look strange to anyone else?

Questions:

1. Firstly, are these bindings any good? Can people see any issues with them?

2. If they are good, can I replace parts? And where do I find them?

3. If they're not, what bindings should I get? (Steps ins or ?) I'm an average carver that likes speed!

Next issue:

I recently posted on BOL that I got two new pairs of these boots for $150 (which people tell me is a bargain).

From what we've heard, they're Indy boots and quite good. The feedback was that we should pick up the BTS system for the boots, which we're doing. (thanks for that advice guys).

So... Question 4: How do I get the fittings to match these boots with my new step in bindings? Can anyone help there? I'll need some kind of pin arrangement in the heels?

Anyway, Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

And finally...

In terms of boot comfort, my pair are fine, but the pair I gave to my friend are a little problematic. One of his liners is super comfy, but the other has been crushed so badly (been stored incorrectly in the shop for like 5 years plus) and it's super uncomfortable. He's trying to clamp it back in shape, but it's not looking good.

So Question 5: How we get another liner that will fit these boots (Is it possible to buy just one?)

Here's a pic of the liner and the serial number:

Thanks in advance for any help, info and advice you can provide!

- Pete

[thebionicman]

Can't see pics.

[b0ardski]

If the blax stepins are like these

and the missing plastic is off the outside of the heel reciever you should have no issue with functionality. For a stripped center disc screw? you should be able to find a compatible replacement at a local hardware store.

you will need to get some stepin heels to mount to your boots to use bindings like these. the pictured binding heel recievers are the same as F2/proflex/raichle and are compatible with F2 intec or the fintec stepin boot heels from the bomber store here http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&stc=1&d=1260579405

use the search function (login to use) on this page's header to find info on mounting stepin heels to your boots.

the pictured blax binding are fibre reinforced composite bases and could break if you're a really big guy/aggresive, rider otherwise they're good enough to get you started.

replacement liners can be ordered from the bomber store here http://www.bomberonline.com/store/accessories/liners.cfm

or try Intuition.com. there may be a ski shop in Ozland you could get a pair of liners from and get them fit. Poor boy option would be find cheap used/discount skiboots that fit well an swap the liners.

[AussieCarver]

Sorry, I'll try again with pix (like I said... learning fast!)

--------------------------------------

Hi everyone,

Still a new guy, but learning fast here in Australia. Have a couple of questions about gear that I have:

Warren, one of the BOL members here in Melbourne, has generously donated a board to me, which is just amazing. The board is a Prior WCR 167 and looks to me to be pretty racey. I'd appreciate any info on the board beyond what I know above.

Warren also gave me some Blax step in bindings for the board:

Which is also extremely generous (the carving community might be small down here, but it's pretty damn helpful). Warren said I might need to get some bits and pieces to get these bindings working again. First thing he said was one of the centre bolts might be a little threaded, so I might need to replace it (he couldn't recall which one was threaded, but I guess I should find out if I can get replacement parts for this online). It also looks to me that there is a dark plastic piece missing from the heel (see the left hand side of the binding on right). Does it look strange to anyone else?

Questions:

1. Firstly, are these bindings any good? Can people see any issues with them?

2. If they are good, can I replace parts? And where do I find them?

3. If they're not, what bindings should I get? (Steps ins or ?) I'm an average carver that likes speed!

Next issue:

I recently posted on BOL that I got two new pairs of these boots for $150 each (which people tell me is a bargain).

From what we've heard, they're Indy boots and quite good. The feedback was that we should pick up the BTS system for the boots, which we're doing. (thanks for that advice guys).

So... Question 4: How do I get the fittings to match these boots with my new step in bindings? Can anyone help there? I'll need some kind of pin arrangement in the heels?

Anyway, Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

And finally...

In terms of boot comfort, my pair are fine, but the pair I gave to my friend are a little problematic. One of his liners is super comfy, but the other has been crushed so badly (been stored incorrectly in the shop for like 5 years plus) and it's super uncomfortable. He's trying to clamp it back in shape, but it's not looking good.

So Question 5: How we get another liner that will fit these boots (Is it possible to buy just one?)

Here's a pic of the liner and the serial number:

Thanks in advance for any help, info and advice you can provide!

- Pete

[dantheman0177]

Mate,

Not a bad get on the board. I have a similar vintage WCR 161 in my quiver and it can be a lot of fun. My only comment is that you'll have to be reasonably choosy on what runs you ride in Oz or you just won't enjoy it. But get out early on the groomers at Summit, Grimmus, Standard and Wombat (Mt Buller), around Ruined Castle chair (Falls Creek) and Blue Ribbon, Australia Drift, Race Gully and Bushwacker (Mt Hotham) and you should be able to make the most of the board.

Don't know much about the boots, but they are a bargain at $150. You just can't get this stuff here, so not only should they be more than fine for purpose, they are great value for money too.

The only problem that you have now is......the season's over! So you'll have to go to the northern hemisphere to ride. Oh what a shame...haha.

Dan

[AussieCarver]

Hi Dan,

Yeah, had an older F2 Speedster at Ruined Castle during the 'good' week a few months ago and it was awesome fun (until it got all chopped up). I think the one I've picked up will be a good board to have for good conditions and I might try and pick up an AWD board at the tail end of the US season. Here's hoping the USD:AUD stays around the same!

Cheers mate and might catch you up there next year eh?

Pete.

[Ear dragger]

the missing plastic piece should not affect the binding. the metal is what is doing all the work. I think the bolt that may be stripped is probably pretty standard hardware. you should be able to replace at a local store.

You need to get intec or fintec (here on bomber) heels for you're boots, if you want to use the bindings. I'm not sure about the strength of the binding, but the other post is probably right. they do have a good bit of plastic. use em', but start looking for a trench digger, or catek binding if you want something strong and lasts (of course there are others).

that liner needs to be re cooked if it is a moldable liner.

[Allee]

The bindings will be fine. The only function that plastic bit serves on my F2's is that there's a line on the top of the tab, that would tell you if you were properly engaged or not. If you were, then you could see the line when you clipped in and looked down. It's definitely the receiver that's holding you in.

Unless you're a wildebeest, those bindings will do fine for now.

For the heels, you'll see straight away how they bolt on, it's a 2 minute job. If you're planning on keeping the boots for a while then splash the $$$ and order the Fintecs from Bomber, rather than mess around with used F2 Intecs.

[AussieCarver]

Thanks Allee and Eardigger.

Good advice. I have ordered the fintecs, a spare set of moldable liners, a BTS kit for the Deeluxe boots and damn it... why not? A Booster strap! I don't even really know if I need one... but if I'm getting a package sent from America to Australia, I thought I might as well get one thrown in!

From what I've read, the step ins are really good. Is that the right read on it?

BTW... any thoughts on the board?

Cheers,

Pete.

[b0ardski]

Way to go mate:biggthump the $$ you saved on good board, bindings and premium boots was well spent on the bomber heels and BTS. I always tell people that good fitting boots are by far the most important piece of equipement and that's were you should spend the bucks when 1st gearing up.

You can ride crappy boards well in premium boots but you can't ride premium boards well in crappy boots.

Too bad your seasons over down under, but if you mount up those heels/BTS and do some carpet surfing to dail in a comfy stance you'll be well set for next season.

I think you may want to find some F2/raichle cant/lift wedges that fit under the toe/heel blocks of those bindings. they will help you dail in a comfortable efficient stance/position on the board. If you can't (pun intended) get your hands on some they are easy to fabricate out of a poly cutting board.

The wcr may be a bit racey for learning on but if the flex isn't too stiff for your weight, it'll do you well till you try a few different boards to get a feel for what works the best for you.

[leeho730]

Probably the most suitable mountain for carving in australisia is mount hutt located in Canterbury, nz. Top to bottom wide groomed slope (100+ metres in terms of width).

[AussieCarver]

Thanks Boardski. Good advice on the cutting board. I'll check this out.

I take it by what you've said that the bindings are OK... I've only ridden the toe/heel clip versions, which are fine and much easier than the softboot setup where you gotta sit down all the time. The step in theory seems to be even easier again. I'd be interested to learn of other's experience with this setup.

The board feels to me like an F2 Speedster 'Route 66' model I had at Falls Creek this year. I loved the feel of the racey board, so I'm really happy and eternally grateful to the donor! Can anyone tell me what year it is?

Also, when I mount the bindings, do I put some rubber down underneath or something? Like a rubber disk? It looks like there's some rubber residue under the bindings now. Any ideas on this front would be appreciated.

And Mount Hutt... good idea! Although thinking that Japan would have even better snow... but not sure if ideal for carving.

[dantheman0177]

The step in theory seems to be even easier again. I'd be interested to learn of other's experience with this setup.

Step-ins are fantastic, especially for us lazy buggers. Just watch out for ice build up under your heels, which is a real issue in Aust. Otherwise you'll find that you are not clipped in properly, and coming out of your binding half way through a turn is a VERY scary experience!

Can anyone tell me what year it is?

I think it is mid-2000's but if you can read the serial number, send an email to Prior and they will be able to give you the full run down on the board.

Also, when I mount the bindings, do I put some rubber down underneath or something? Like a rubber disk? It looks like there's some rubber residue under the bindings now. Any ideas on this front would be appreciated.

My wife has the same bindings and they are mounted directly on the board. Not sure if that is by design or circumstance though.

Hope to catch up with you next winter on the hill. Otherwise if you come down the west coast for a surf, drop me a line.

Dan

[zoltan]

How much do you weigh? Are you a physically strong rider?

[AussieCarver]

Hey Dan,

I'll have a look for a serial.

No problem, I'll be in touch for a wave. I normally head to Winki and sit down the bottom of Lowers into the Valley (I prefer this to the crowds up top).

And Zoltan... I'm 74kg (I think that's about 163 pounds?). But I'm not sure how I would rate myself as a rider. I'm certainly not laying over on the snow into turns if that's what you mean, but I'm pretty sure that's a consequence of my status as a learner as opposed to my physical strength.

Cheers,

Pete.

[SunSurfer]

Probably the most suitable mountain for carving in australisia is mount hutt located in Canterbury, nz. Top to bottom wide groomed slope (100+ metres in terms of width).

If you're coming to NZ, Cardrona is where I learned to carve and is better than Coronet Peak / Treble Cone or Remarkables in the Central Otago region. Cardrona is a good intermediate field with reasonably wide runs and Queenstown has plenty of direct flights from Aussie (as does Christchurch/Mt Hutt).

Turoa & Whakapapa in the North Island are more prone to bad weather, wet snow, have significantly narrower runs and less area suitable for someone just getting started.

Can't speak for the other, smaller fields like Mt Dobson, Ohau, Porter Heights etc.

SunSurfer

[AussieCarver]

Hey guys, been looking around at the extremecarving website (looks European) and I noticed they don't really think much of the step in bindings I've got. Any thoughts on this? Have I gone and invested in the wrong thing or is it just that I'm light years away from 'extreme' carving? and it doesn't much matter anyway?

--------------------------------------

Bindings

Because of their stiffness, step-ins are to be avoided in extremecarving. The board bends tremendously during each turn and needs an articulation under each foot. Without the articulation, the rider's legs must follow the movement, which translate into large movements of the knees- tight together or even crossing each others during turns and spreading out during transitions. That stiffness not only interferes with the natural flex of the board, but also produces very large amount of stress just in front of the bindings which potentially can break the snowboard! Another undesired effect is the transmission of unwanted vibration from the board to the feet because of the stiff boots/board bindings interface.

We highly recommend the F2 Race Titanium bindings, of course without any canting pad (see the page Settings). They are very light, very durable, very short and relatively cheap. They are completely isolated from the board, i.e. there are no hard contact between them and the board. Their lateral flex match perfectly to technical needs of extremecarving. They are plug and play without any needs for modifications.

[kieran]

that style is particularly specialized. the stiffness they talk about comes from the step-in heel block, and at the low angles those guys run at, there isn't much lateral slop compared to a binding with a heel bail.

unless you're dead set on going that route, what you have is more than sufficient.

[zoltan]

And Zoltan... I'm 74kg (I think that's about 163 pounds?).

The boots you have are the Indy, which is Deeluxe/Raichle's racing boot, and are very stiff. At 74kg (unless you're 160cm tall), and considering you're a beginner, they're going to be too stiff for you and are going to hinder your learning. Especially starting out, you want a softer and more forgiving boot.

Having boots or board which are too soft might be annoying, but can be worked around, and won't be a huge obstacles to someone's progression. On the other hand, having boots or board which are too stiff can be a huge issue.

How tall are you?

[Jack M]

Extreme carving certainly looks like a ton of fun, and it is. However attempting to lay out carves like those guys before you have learned the basics of carving is difficult and often results in bad habits, such as bending over at the waist and reaching down for the snow with your hands. Extreme carving is an expert level skill much like getting big air in a big halfpipe with lots of vert. You shouldn't attempt it until you have a solid mastery of fundamental carving skills.

[b0ardski]

When the stepin sidewinders come out it won't be an issue.

You've got a couple years of practice before you're throwing you're body flat on the snow and bouncing back up.

p.s. BTS and the softer thermoflex liners will go a long way toward make those boots easier to flex and thus more forgiving.

[leeho730]

Hey guys, been looking around at the extremecarving website (looks European) and I noticed they don't really think much of the step in bindings I've got.

True.

Any thoughts on this?

There are people who do extremecarving with step-ins.

Have I gone and invested in the wrong thing or is it just that I'm light years away from 'extreme' carving?

No and no.

and it doesn't much matter anyway?

You can extremecarve with your gear.... Takes more practice, I believe. If I ever go to Vic, I might bring my swoard (168M) so you can try.

And freecarve is as fun, if not more sometimes. For me, making tight turns on narrow steep slopes is very rewarding.

You're luckier than me... I started with cheap rental alpine board, crappy plastic binding and a pair of very old salomon ski boots from local ski club. You've got very good gears to start with so all you have to do is to search bomberonline or youtube for some alpine snowboarding clips...

[AussieCarver]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all that. I'm keen to keep going and learn the ropes, so it doesn't sound like the step-ins are a waste of time. The extreme carving looks amazing, but yeah... it's going to take a lot of practice and also some perfect conditions (not wildly available here in Australia)

Good thoughts on the boots Zoltan and Boardski... I tried to buy some clearance thermoflex liners here at Bomber store, but they sold out and I can't really come at $170 for new liners right now, so I'll hang with what I got for the moment.

I do have an older pair of Raichle boots with the Vibram sole and the clip at the back for riding/walk modes. These ones are softer than the Deeluxe, but obviously won't work with the step-ins I've got, so maybe I need to pick up some TD1s or something so I can swap between boots and bindings if the Deeluxe give me any hassles or so I can set up another board.

If anyone has any toe/heel clip bindings for sale that aren't going to break my bank, love to hear from you!

[zoltan]

I do have an older pair of Raichle boots with the Vibram sole and the clip at the back for riding/walk modes.

I weigh 70kg, and would personally much rather use those than the Indys.

[Keyser Soze]

I'm not sure what your boot size is, but checking skiing forums for deals on liners isn't a bad idea:

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9

http://www.epicski.com/forum/list/10

Also, Intuition is offering a discount to TGR and Epicski folks, the promo code is: TGR15

http://www.intuitionliners.com/

I tried it out to see if the code worked, and it shaved $25 off the price.