Lorddrek Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 Hello. I have been snowboarding for 10 years and love to carve on my Burton Canyon but with size 14 boots I have always suffered from toe drag. I am looking for tips on what kind of setup would be good for someone who is 250lbs with size 14 feet. Really looking forward to laying down some trenches this year without dragging my boot tips in the process. Thanks. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUD Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 If you want to get a new board. I would check out Coilers Monsters. http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=207488&postcount=10 Bruce will make you one with a 23 cm waist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 I carve on a Canyon 173 and use it for one of my teaching boards. It can be done but I find the torsional stiffness is not so great and it gets a little wiggly if you push. I am 250 size 10.5 boots. You may need to point your toes further forward as toe drag stinks. What angles you running? Did you try going further toward the nose? Looked at that link Mud and pretty sure my canyon is in the 25 cm range or more. It feels very wide. I do ride it about 35 to 40 on the front and 30 on the back foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorddrek Posted December 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 I ride with 25-30 front and 15 rear with Burton Ruler soft boots. I did try some extreme forward angles last year but it was hard to control and very uncomfortable. Do you use hard boots on your canyon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 What is your stance on that canyon ? Did u set up your soft boots in a hard boot setup or duck stance ? I suppose both are angled foward, maybe you should try the duck stance, its working for me.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 I ride with 25-30 front and 15 rear with Burton Ruler soft boots. I did try some extreme forward angles last year but it was hard to control and very uncomfortable. Do you use hard boots on your canyon? Oh yeah. Love the hard boots. Only ride soft on the very beginner hill. Don't go extreme forward. Try 5 or 10 degrees and get used to that a bit. The more forward you go the more you use side pressure in the knees, hips and spine. Not that you don't do some of the same moves, it just changes. Sorry for some reason I thought you were already riding HBs. Some don't like them in the pow and what not, I go everywhere. Bumps, tight trees, pow and really like the response, and with the stiffer upper cuff you can get some better side of cuff pressure than with softies. Not to preach, but I love the ride of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorddrek Posted December 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 I used to ride with a duck stance (15f and -10r) but since I bought newer boots and bindings that decrease my toe drag I was able to swing them forward a bit for a more controlled ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 grab yourself something stiff, because you're heavy, you can flex any board i would imagine. A super stiff donek, maybe a renn tiger. ditch the softies and get some hard boots!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 grab yourself something stiff, because you're heavy, you can flex any board i would imagine. A super stiff donek, maybe a renn tiger. ditch the softies and get some hard boots!! lol, renn tiger stiff? I think we not be on the same page! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rambleon Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 ...Donek 182. http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=22454 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 maybe a renn tiger. Almanac says the older ones are soft, can't imagine that Volkl puts that much thought into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Donek Blade 180 Stiff. http://www.donek.com/specs.htm That will work well at Sunapee. And seriously, at your size don't waste your time with any plastic bindings like F2, Burton, Ibex, etc. Of course I recommend Bomber TD3, but you can find TD2s now in the classifieds for a good price. you can thank me later. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 You can lose one or two boot sizes if you do go with hardboots with TF liners. Baking the liners is easy after watching a couple moldings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 You can lose one or two boot sizes if you do go with hardboots with TF liners.Baking the liners is easy after watching a couple moldings. Correct boot shell size is not variable. While T flex work for some they did not for me. I am a big boy and they did not give me the support I wanted. Maybe for lighter riders they work better. The correct boot and size is maybe even more important than your board. And other than the board ( and not always there ) it is the most expensive part of hardbooting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trailertrash Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 And other than the board ( and not always there ) it is the most expensive part of hardbooting. no kidding in addition to the boots, upgraded liners (molding costs), insoles, bts and fin-tecs. you can have $1000 boots easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Why is it that "most of you" always suggest very stiff boards? Stiffer isn't always better! If someone wants to go hard boot it doesn't mean that he wants (and has)to do 60 mph to carve! I had a Nitro superGS 1,81 16m side cut radius that was stiff as hell and i can tell you folks that it was the most "not fun" board i ever had!(i had to do top speed to carve on it) I am 6.3, 250 pounds and wear 31 size boots and i like riding softer boards (something like the 3 little bears story)! And i realized that last year after taking a ride on my friends Elan ballistic 1,60 last year(i have the 1,71 witch is stiffer,2cm narrower and has bigger side cut radius)and it was actually a very fun ride because i could do everything that i did om my board with less effort except the very high speed turns and that didn't bother me a bit! So i think that for some starting hard boots (because he is use to freestyle free ride softer flex boards)the best thing is the all mountain board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Why is it that you people always suggest very stiff boards? I am not a "you people". I did not suggest any board. To lump all "bombers" into one group of you people, is to suggest an us vs. them mentality. Appreciate the group bludgeoning. But seems like you are one of "you people" as well. We all have opinions. Very rarely do "we" all agree on anything. Even the fact that has been proven that it is far better to ride with knees together. If we don't agree on that, there can be no consensus on the best board. Stiffer isn't always better! Depends on what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 no kidding in addition to the boots, upgraded liners (molding costs), insoles, bts and fin-tecs. you can have $1000 boots easily. yes, I'm there $900 UPZ with injection foam, fintec and a footbed. $825ish head, thermoflex, intec, expensive footbed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorddrek Posted December 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2008 Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I'm going to have to start a savings account... I'll keep an eye out in the for sale section in the meantime. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted December 10, 2008 Report Share Posted December 10, 2008 If you're hunting the classifieds, watch for a used Axxess (aka Axis), Swoard, 4WD (aka 4x4), or Burton Speed 168. Those are all wide. I wouldn't go shorter than 168. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I'm going to have to start a savings account... I'll keep an eye out in the for sale section in the meantime.Derek Just for Derek. Ultimate "Big Boy Board" Not Cheap, but great value!! Tinkler 185, 23cm waist, built for world cup racer, RE:BEEFY used, like new Catek OS2 Long Plate, standards, used, like new Raichle Boots, M31, used, like new. Conformable liner, cooked once! Photos to follow. To You only Today 1000$ cash plus shipping. Love to see you back "On Board" Really, contact me via pm. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtslalom Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 By Ear Dragger - grab yourself something stiff I grab myself something stiff every time I look at your avatar. Lorddrek, Place your binding angles at 45 degrees or better. That might stop your toe drag. If you do this you better drive your turns a little more with your knees and rely less on ankle flexion. I ride a K2 fatbob with about a 28 cm waist. My angles are both around 50 degrees and I have a size 10 boot. I'm not even close to toe drag and probably about 2 inches away from it on both toe and heel side. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorddrek Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Sounds like a sweet board but I am into hardboot carving for over a grand now and the wife had to put her foot down. So I gotta roll with what I presently got. Currently skidding on an F2 183 Speedster RS. I have Head Stratos MP30s and TD1s. I get no heel/toe overhang over 60 degrees. Been messing with cant/lift angles and having no luck but feel I'm getting close. I was able to carve a little but I keep having the tail want to swing out while riding flat or heelside. I mean real bad. I get this severe twisting feeling in my rear knee to keep it going straight or to come out of a heelside turn. I have posted elsewhere about this and have played with the angles from 65 to 48 and nothing has been even close to comfortable. Working with 0 and 3 degree cant/lift plates. Going to try to pick up a 6 and try that on the rear. Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim W Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 That twisting knee thing is probably a cant related issue. Are you riding 3 on the back and 0 up front? I might even have a 6 degree cant for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorddrek Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 I have tried both front and back and I think having the 0 on the rear made it worse. I presently have a trade going on for a 6 but I thank you for the offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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