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Coiler Preparation for Delivery


Chubz

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Folks

This may be a silly question but Bruce is in process with my first ever custom and I was wondering if it comes with base grind or do I need to plan on having a third party do the base grind? I can do my tune and wax or have JBS do that, but just checking the grind.

Thanks

Greg

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I dropped him a line, just thought if he doesnt base prep, I coudl use this link to then identify a reputable outfit that could then do the whole base, edges and wax for me on the East Coast, PTC I would imagine.

I am awaiting his reply, just got a little ansy.

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definitely talk to Bruce about it

Mine came flat, sharp tip to tail, with an ap wax on it (just how it should IMO).

There are some folks here that will ride a board that way but it doesn't work for me.

I just spent the last two hours tuning mine and prepping the base. After I ride it a bit and get to know the board, I'll send it to a pro to have the proper texture put on the base and get the edges set for the conditions that I plan on using the board.

Don't expect a builder to ship you a board ready to ride.

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coilers come with a rather nice tune, better than the donek I had and better my priors.

Both the starting gate and Mike D of PTC have mentioned Priors being a mess out of the factory the word used at the starting gate was "railed". My donek could of been just mine but the thing had a dimple that did not seem to effect the ride but was also what I'd consider a grind that should of had a few more passes.

of the five coilers I've had, all have been pretty flat based when having a true bar on them. I set my bevel and ran with it on all of them they have been fine.

My only complaint would be that they don't have a ton of structure but compared to some of the wavy bases I've seen on boards out of the factory I'd say coilers are tuned much better than the industry standard.

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Coilers are pretty close to ready to ride when you unpack them IMHO. I've bought quite a few. (And I am anal about the tune... which means, they are ready to ride for most people) The shop I use for base grinds, Race Place here in Bend, has always given him props for how flat the bases are and how all he needs to do is apply the structure. Edge wise, they tend to come with a bit of a base bevel and a bit of a side bevel if I am not mistaken. I believe they come stone ground. I usually take it on its maiden voyage without tuning it (as I do with any new board just in case there is a manufacturing defect and I have to warranty it) then apply a 1 base, 3 side bevel with my own tools. I took my NSR for a grind not too long after I bought it since I was racing on it last year and I figured why not. My AM, the grind is more than good enough and I have no plans to take it in for a grind until I ding the base up some.

The Prior I bought two seasons ago was edge high but it wasn't *so* bad. A base bevel of 1* was enough to make it easy to ride. I haven't had a new Donek for a few years but the last couple I bought were as edge high as the Prior, and also no bevel. I had to bevel the Doneks to make them rideable.

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That Coiler guy doesn't know a friggin thing about tuning and he may as well just put it under a bus , drag it for a few miles and give it a real grind;)

About 1.5 yrs ago I finally got a base sander for a decent price. Grinders are out of my league for the amount of boards I do. Previous to that I had a shop in Toronto sand and grind and they usually did a good job. 2 years ago when I swithced locations, another local shop helped me out and the results were below what I would have liked but the price was right, free!

The sander I have is a rare model( company now belly up) but it does a real good job of flattening the bases and is compact enough to fit nicely in the shop. I have been continually tweaking the press too and the boards come out pretty much dead flat so very little material comes off right from the start.

As they go out now they should be reeeeal flat with a very small bevel usually just enough to get the edges out of the way so you can ride as is. Edges done at 90 or close to it as my hands will get. Structure is sanded so its not race quality but again plenty good for most. No tip./tail detuning done and I apply one coat of hot wax and may or may not scrape as if the board is going to sit in a nice cool UPS truck for week, it is better to leave it on and let it soak in. During the season I often try to leave the board with wax on at least overnight before scraping and boxing up to ship as it will probably be used right away so the owner can get right on it.

Personally I always like to ride a board with a basic tune on it before I make any tuning choices. This is especially true with the new metal boards as it is hard to judge how much edge hold you want to dial in .

A good grind etc will no doubt make a bit nicer ride but if I have done my job right building it, you should be pretty happy with it as is .

I'd bet a good board with a basic tune is a lot nicer than a crap board with top notch tune:)

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That Coiler guy doesn't know a friggin thing about tuning and he may as well just put it under a bus , drag it for a few miles and give it a real grind;)

Jeez, you sir, must really dislike that coiler guy.

I'll say it again, your boards stand up to a true bar real well, you're doing something right.

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Jeez, you sir, must really dislike that coiler guy.

I'll say it again, your boards stand up to a true bar real well, you're doing something right.

There is one very delicate part of the assembly process in particular that I utilize a very unique process to get them real flat.

Anyone that knows about it will realize I'm throwing you some BS mumbo jumbo and am making a very simple part of the process sound kinda technical. Really is too much of that going on nowadays;)

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