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Do you de-tune?


Keenan

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Oh yea I do. Mostly using a .5/87 combo and de-tune just the first/last 2 inches to take a little of that bite off… Helps tremendously when you ride the board flat at high speeds, or while landing :) Especially boards with extreme camber... :D

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Oh yea I do. Mostly using a .5/87 combo and de-tune just the first/last 2 inches to take a little of that bite off… Helps tremendously when you ride the board flat at high speeds, or while landing :) Especially boards with extreme camber... :D

Shoot, because you've got about 1 inch of running length on each corner of the board when you're riding flat..

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I worked in a Colorado ski shop for a while and their policy was to detune all skis about 1" from contact point and all boards about 3". I always thought that was a little strange for carving skis/boards, so I figured I'd ask the Bomber contingency for an opinion.

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I had thought it was better to bevel the edge than detune. At least that way when you go to the edge there is something to grab.

I'm riding mostly icy snow in around Edmonton, so I prefer to have as much bite as possible. I think I've got 1* bevel on the carving board, about 5* on the freeriding stuff.

Dave

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Nope.

My edges are sharp enough along the entire edge to give you a paper cut if you're sloppy with your board handling.

In fact that's happened a couple of times with lifties as they've grabbed my board too quickly from the racks on the Whistler gondola....:eek:

I just give them a band-aid from my first aid kit in the outer pocket of my

Da Kine Heli pack and apologize.:eplus2:

Geo

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I worked in a Colorado ski shop for a while and their policy was to detune all skis about 1" from contact point and all boards about 3". I always thought that was a little strange for carving skis/boards, so I figured I'd ask the Bomber contingency for an opinion.

two things, many shops are not with the times and then even if they are the techs might be out to lunch.

the general consensus I've gotten is that detuning is relic of the days of straight skis. If you need to reduce grip you either have the wrong board, you're doing something wrong or in conditions that few people see. (groomed and refrozen, blown snow on a exceptionally cold day with a touch of fresh blown groomed in. boilerplate but not icey. super grip snow)

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No detune...

I want the most effective edge as possible especially with the short board..

the way a schtubby is designed and the decamber in the nose.. I go with a full edge.

People offten mention a board hooks..or it catches.... I hope it does that.. I go for full contact and if I need to disigage the edge I pop it out.

I go for maximum edge on ice.. On a decambered nose It think you can do it.. if its not then maybe you feel it hooky or catchy . But why lesson the effective edge by de tunning the board... almost make you make a board longer to get the edge contact you want...

The board determines a lot i think.. but I never ever have detuned a board..for me I want maximum edge along the entire running edge. If its catchy then I adjust and pop it out of the turn..

I guess thats why I had built the Schtubby 161 with maximum contact lenght and short board..

enough about that .... but to detune a alpine board only makes sense if it a board that is hard to initiate a turn... haven't seen that in the new board designs... sharp sharp sharp..

You will have to decide whether you like that or not...

dunno..

its late and wathing DO MESS WITH THE ZOHAN.. hashahahaha

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Well, again it comes down to personal taste. I have tried many of my boards in a direct run to run comparison. Basically a few runs with a fresh edge job without my described slight de-tune and than re-touched the edges but with a slight de-tune and I can certainly say that at .5/87 degree, when you just take off that little ultra sharp edge at the first 1.5-2 inches, the board rides much more in my favor and it does not loose any edge hold at all. Maybe there is a difference between what you and I understand under de-tune... and possibly differs from tuner to tuner as well. Tell me, what do you guys understand under de-tune please?

Cheers!

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Well, again it comes down to personal taste. I have tried many of my boards in a direct run to run comparison. Basically a few runs with a fresh edge job without my described slight de-tune and than re-touched the edges but with a slight de-tune and I can certainly say that at .5/87 degree, when you just take off that little ultra sharp edge at the first 1.5-2 inches, the board rides much more in my favor and it does not loose any edge hold at all. Maybe there is a difference between what you and I understand under de-tune... and possibly differs from tuner to tuner as well. Tell me, what do you guys understand under de-tune please?

Cheers!

a few swipes with a diamond stone to SLIGHTLY round the edge

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For years, I didn't. I just did a base bevel instead.

But late last season I realized two things:

* My F2 183 feels amazingly neutral when riding with the base flat.

* I like that a lot.

* (Here's the shocker) The board was detuned.

* It's still my favorite board for high speed carving on uncrowded days.

I took it in 3-4 years ago, shortly after I bought it, and asked for a base bevel. I was delighted with the results... Turns out the shop detuned it at the same time. All this time, I thought it was just the bevel that made it so neutral.

That board is one of the best-carving boards I've tried, and after not riding it for a long time (due to having so much fun on my new Donek AX (1/1 bevel, no detuning)), I realized that I really, really like the way my F2 feels when it's not on edge. So I took a file to my AX. Got one day on it, filed a little more, and the season ended. Will be paying very close attention to this when the lifts open for this season.

I have a strong suspicion that the first time I took a board in and asked for a base bevel, it also got detuned. I may have been on the "don't bother detuning" bandwagon for a long time for the wrong reason. :lol:

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its all about personal feeling

all 12 of my boards have round as a butter knife tips and tails to the contact point then a gradual detune to tuned from the contact point to boards center

much less on a carving deck or a pipe deck and a lot more on a pow stick

my jibber deck has no edges but anyone of my boards with the physical ability to carve and pop is a razor blade anywhere from 1-1.5 base, 1-3 side

just my 2 cents

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Edit: My boards are basically all tuned to a flat base, which someone could say ends up to be half a degree in reality. So a flat base with an 87 degree edge is very aggressive. Sure thing, ULTRA sharp edges!!! The first 1.5-2 inches are being touched up with a very fine diamond stone. 2-3 easy swipes to the outside of the board in a 30 degree off base. Many would not even consider this a de-tune, I do, maybe I am too meticulous, still too German thinking :rolleyes:

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