nadia Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Please help out a brand new carver. Pardon my ignorance, but here goes nothing... What is with the little nubbin that protrudes from the black clip of the binding? It seems to interfere awkwardly with the boot. Any ideas, suggestions, enlightenments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 that is a set screw. it keeps the toe clip from rotating past the optomal position. if it rotates too far, it will give you a looser boot binding interface which is not good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Judging by the photo you have attached, you need to adjust the set screw so that the top of the bail lever sits closer to the toe of your boot by quite a bit. As it is, if you were to ride like that you would almost certainly pop out of your bindings very easily ... not something you want to occur. when the angle of the bail arms and the bail lever lever "tooth" ( don't know what the hell you call this thing) are nearly parallel, it is very easy for the bindings to pop open on you. Not safe. Otherwise, it would appear that you are using an old pair of ski boots no? If you can find yourself a cheap used pair of snowboarding hardboots, this will dramatically improve your early carving experiences: - Ski boots are are much stiffer than even the stiffest carving boots (though you may get away with it if those are a pair of Flexon Comps, as I understand it). They will make it much harder for you to carve successfully and comfortably. - The square toe of your ski boot will probably impede the bail lever from providing maximum closure force and make your binding situation more than a little sketchy - popping out of your bindings mid carve (or mid anything) is not something you ever want to have happen, as the results can be pretty catastrophic. You can buy used snowboard boots here, pretty cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted August 30, 2008 Report Share Posted August 30, 2008 if you remove that adjustment screw, the toe lever will "cam over" into a locked position, even on those DIN normal boots You may have to tighten up the toe bail slightly after removing the screw to achieve the right tension on the toe lever, it should "snap" into a locked position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted August 30, 2008 Report Share Posted August 30, 2008 If you remove the set screw all together you might have quite a time trying to release the boot. You need to leave a little gap between the lever and the boot to get a hold of the lever. BUT, I agree with qq. I've heard many stories of people giving up carving because they were trying to learn in ski boots, not board boots. They may look the same, but they are very different creatures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingchef Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 If you remove the set screw all together you might have quite a time trying to release the boot. You need to leave a little gap between the lever and the boot to get a hold of the lever. this has worked for me to open the binding without too much effort, you take a piece of cord and make a loop with a couple of knots and cut off the eccess cord then loop it in the toe lever of the binding and even if you have thick gloves you can still grab a hold of the knots and just pull up and the binding will release without too much effort and you don't have to try to get your finger under the lever, something simple and easy to do. hope this help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinecure Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 this has worked for me to open the binding without too much effort, you take a piece of cord and make a loop with a couple of knots and cut off the eccess cord then loop it in the toe lever of the binding and even if you have thick gloves you can still grab a hold of the knots and just pull up and the binding will release without too much effort and you don't have to try to get your finger under the lever, something simple and easy to do.hope this help You can also use that method to create a quasi-safety leash. Make the loop a little longer and then buckle it under your bottom buckle once you are clipped in. If the binding fails, you'll still be connected to the board. Also, it will keep the toe bail from opening spontaneously (aka UBR, unwanted binding release - also a song by Eric T & the Skis). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadia Posted December 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Going to resurrect an old post. The board/bindings/boots were stored across the country, and now that I have them at arms length, your recommendations might make more sense. Just a few clarifications to the great advise I received in August: What is the set screw? To confirm, the angle between the lever and boot should be minimized? Judging by the photo you have attached, you need to adjust the set screw so that the top of the bail lever sits closer to the toe of your boot by quite a bit.when the angle of the bail arms and the bail lever lever "tooth" ( don't know what the hell you call this thing) are nearly parallel, it is very easy for the bindings to pop open on you. Not safe. Thanks again, and looking forward to the first runs this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 +1 for getting rid of those raichles. I used to race in them for a short amount of time, they don't work well for snowboarding. If you are going to use ski boots then us the original flexons with the softer tongue. I too would recommend getting some snowboard hardboots to make learning more enjoyable. Yes, decrease the gap between the toe lever and the top of your boot. Turning the screw in a few turns should do the trick. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadia Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 I don't mean to flog a dead horse, but what's a set screw? Bomber's "How to set up your plate bindings" instructions describe it as a lever bolt, but...? One picture shows the screws (one for toe bail, one for heel) I used for adjustment. Is this the set screw? The other shows what I've ended up with, which in my opinion looks just like the photo in the first post. I'm hoping not to forcefully eject myself from my bindings on the first run. All recomendations welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted December 18, 2008 Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 This is setscrew: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrol Posted December 18, 2008 Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 This is setscrew: That's the set screw. what your screwdriver is pointing at is a quisi safety screw that holds down the flip up lever for adjusting those ole Burton performer plates for your boot length... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDB Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Nadia- On the last photo notice that on the side of the baseplate of the front binding there is the word -INSIDE- These Burton Bindings have a 3 degree cant built in to them. (cant is the amount the boot is angled to either side)(lift is fore and aft) The word -INSIDE- should appear between your feet. You need to put your rear binding on the front and your front one on the back or else you will be riding with 3 degrees outward cant on each leg...though it's OK if you are severely bowlegged. These bindings were for free riding....meant to be ridden at fairly low angles without a lift plate...hence the 3 degrees of tip in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDB Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 That boot has a very high toe box. Take a Quarter and screw the "setscrew" that BlueB showed you all the way in. The lever must snap closed with some authority. If you change boots the screw setting will have to be revisited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtrappy Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 you do not need that nub. I rode burtons for years and always just took them out. Thats what i would do if i were you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadia Posted December 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Eeep. Thank you. I'm terribly sheepish - how horrifying.. it seems I butchered the reassembly. Nadia- On the last photo notice that on the side of the baseplate of the front binding there is the word -INSIDE- These Burton Bindings have a 3 degree cant built in to them. (cant is the amount the boot is angled to either side)(lift is fore and aft) The word -INSIDE- should appear between your feet. You need to put your rear binding on the front and your front one on the back or else you will be riding with 3 degrees outward cant on each leg...though it's OK if you are severely bowlegged. These bindings were for free riding....meant to be ridden at fairly low angles without a lift plate...hence the 3 degrees of tip in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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