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Riser how to vid on you tube


Bordy

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word of advice: DO NOT USE A DREMEL TOOL or the like!!! worst idea ever. had a hard time controlling it...it kept grabbing and going off track. i did a fair bit of grinding and sanding to make the edges look somewhat straight.

one of the plates is about 1.5-2cm short in width on the one side. should look interesting. but the black paint makes them look slick.

i'm makin 2 more over Christmas time with the leftover material. and this time i'll use a jigsaw :smashfrea

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just put on the risers and F2 bindings.

Bordy, you mentioned the locking washer. i have some split locking washers, but the screws i bought don't seem to be quite long enough with them (12mm screws). I think if i go with 16mm screws that will be too long. do you think if i just forgot the washers and went with loctite that would be fine?

Thanks!

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just put on the risers and F2 bindings.

Bordy, you mentioned the locking washer. i have some split locking washers, but the screws i bought don't seem to be quite long enough with them (12mm screws). I think if i go with 16mm screws that will be too long. do you think if i just forgot the washers and went with loctite that would be fine?

Thanks!

only if you want to use a easy out to get the screws out!

even blue loctite is not a good idea, also, I guess it does not play nice with some types of epoxy. avoid it.

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great stuff billy-

since youtube is in the mix, where can we find that jasey jay interview you had on hardbooter ?

not a threadjack, just wanna send that interview to a buddy. Maybe put it up on youtube ? You interviewed another racer that day ? Klug ? it was awesome.

gonna go donate some blood, sell some toys, I pine for some Prior metal !

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If someone makes a *.dxf CAD file of the template, you could stack huge sheets of polycarbonate, nylon, carbon fiber... (see McMaster.com) in a waterjet cutter and make 100's at a time. Setup and cutting time would take all of 5 minutes. Alas I no longer have access to the cutter, but someone out there must. Which ever plastic you choose, watch the low temperature impact strength. All plastics ARE NOT EQUAL at low temps, again, search McMaster.com for plastic sheet and look at the material specs.

Local Concerned Enginerd,

Bob K.

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just put on the risers and F2 bindings.

Bordy, you mentioned the locking washer. i have some split locking washers, but the screws i bought don't seem to be quite long enough with them (12mm screws). I think if i go with 16mm screws that will be too long. do you think if i just forgot the washers and went with loctite that would be fine?

Thanks!

I was having the same issue with the 12mm or 16mm screw lengths. The screws I found also had smaller heads than the original F2 screws which made me a bit nervous. Moreover, when I used the lock washers, I found that they could get stuck in the screw tracks on the binding base plate and actually damage the base plate metal

I ended up using a normal washer, (same width as the original F2 screw head) that is one size bigger than the screw, against the base plate. Then I used a lock washer that is the same size as the screw on top of that.

For me, this solved the issues that the 16mm screw is too long, there is now a washer on the base plate that is the diameter of the original F2 screw, and the lock washer no longer can damage the base plate.

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the 4 on the floor are clear polycarb with white protective backing still in place. the 2 on the board are white polyethylene. NOTE: lengths are 9.50" which is about one inch shorter than Catek's template.

Materials from McMaster.com and here is a link to the 3/16" thick clear polycarbonate http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=8574K27

6mm X 20mm bolt (if using Bomber TD 2) from McMaster's require a 4mm hex wrench.

Update: 6mm x 20mm with a 5mm drive DO NOT EXIST!!!

Fastenal's catalog contains a typo as the drive size is 4mm

post-130-141842243764_thumb.jpg

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I was having the same issue with the 12mm or 16mm screw lengths. The screws I found also had smaller heads than the original F2 screws which made me a bit nervous. Moreover, when I used the lock washers, I found that they could get stuck in the screw tracks on the binding base plate and actually damage the base plate metal

I ended up using a normal washer, (same width as the original F2 screw head) that is one size bigger than the screw, against the base plate. Then I used a lock washer that is the same size as the screw on top of that.

For me, this solved the issues that the 16mm screw is too long, there is now a washer on the base plate that is the diameter of the original F2 screw, and the lock washer no longer can damage the base plate.

i ended up using the 16mm with split locking washers... i'll check to see how they're doing, the length ended up fine, but havent checked to see if there's damage to the bindings plate.

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OOHH!! Point load distribution. Duh!?! No wonder I broke the Identity & the Eldo, especially with those aluminium plates:mad: I'm on a mission now, thanks guys:biggthump

That and a big guy traveling fast? Stopping faster? :biggthump

I know that feeling of sudden compression.

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