BXFR70

I cannot recall whether stiffer between feet, but even Palmer risers stiffen up the board a bit, and deaden it a bit too, I rode the Saber with some of them and my Razor also, I think I still have the Palmer PLS's.

check this thread: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?36595-Anyone-have-experience-with-any-of-these-soft-boots I went through a bit of searching and research on soft boots prior to buying hardboots, my malamutes are fine for what I need, I still have the Driver X boots also. and for a hardshell, I like Arcteryx, they are more minimal/backcountry function than other companies, and are more fitted. not sure on your body type, but they are not like a box or square like a lot of coats out there.

like others have said, you will have to just try on with helmet.... I have noticed that Oakleys tend to fog more than other goggles for me.. the best overall I have found are Smith i/o's, I do not own them, as the Oakleys i have work fine, if I was hiking more and such, I would probably have some i/o's

why do you think they would not build a resort at Chamonix today? just curious, never been...

to the OP, you may want to look into a plug liner, like the Intuition FX Race or HD Race, they are a tongue liner, not wrap around. but the calf is specifically thicker for your problem, I have a pair of I think the FX Race, and they are much thicker and take up more room at the calf and on leg above ankle than red thermofits, I feel they are more comfortable too.

out of curiosity, why do you want the spoiler? if you are bigger, depending on your leg/calf shape, that may hinder you, and put more pressure on you. I went to a bootfitter this year, and we are getting rid of my spoilers on 700's, they dig into my legs too much, my calfs are very wedge shaped and much bigger at calf muscle than ankle. just something to think about... I learned a lot from going to a bootfitter btw, and it would be good if you could go to one. also, some of the stuff I learned, and what is helping is not at all what i would have thought would work, or have read online or was told by less experienced bootfitters.

yea, should be interesting to see what happens when everyone, not just the well off have to pay higher taxes than they currently pay. affordable it will not be, many employers and health insurance companies are already charging more and making things more stringent because of the full implementation of the law that will be happening.

completely agree.

yes, what is the best test for driving? I have heard there is no good test, but it does impair people's abilities and reaction, so that can be problematic.

for sure scrape it off, or have a shop scape it off. riding it will not come off all that quickly, and depending on the snow conditions, it may be extremely slow and catchy. I can tell when a base has a better structure than another base in certain conditions, let alone having a thick coat of wax on the bottom. on here, I see people say wax does not matter, it does matter, especially in the east, it may not matter as much out west, as they are on natural snow that usually does not go through freeze thaw cycles. when I go out west, I barely have to wax my board, in the east, it should be waxed every few days of riding. Depending on your car or bag, you will end up with wax on and in that from the board having wax on it.

I am not sure where you live exactly, or how the winters are... but the truck with 4wd would be nice, also, if you do not have to carry people around, the truck would be nice. but a manual in a truck will probably be annoying, its not like a sporty car with a short throw. what about an AWD car or SUV of some sort, a wagon? subaru? what is your budget? on the manual part, I would not get a manual car unless it was a truly fast car, and even then, when you get to the real fast stuff, a lot is a dual clutch. I drive a manual right now, and had automatics before this, and my next vehicle, a truck, will be an automatic.

I ride Power Plates with 05 Burton C60's size medium, they fit fine, width wise however, they hang over a little bit, a Burton Large or XL will be hanging over the sides some more, I only mention this, as the burton front buckles/teeth are in that channel, and can slip out, if not supported. I do not know if they overhang that much, but just worth mentioning.

what are the specs on the SG Cult?

It actually does work pretty well in our powder/crud here in PA, because the board is fairly soft, and the decambered nose, it seems to ride and deflect off of the crud, I do not think it would work well for actual powder though. philw, thanks for the information, I was hoping you chimed in, I pretty much want the same, not a hardboot powder board, but a powderish board that can be ridden in hardboots. I figured Burton stuff was a pain... I was actually somewhat curious about the Prior Spearhead, as they have some for a pretty good price in the already done section, and being that it is a powder board, I do not care if it is perfect or not. anyone familiar with the Spearhead? philw, what kind of angles do you run on a powder board with plates?, also what size boot and what waist boards? thanks in advance everyone.

as the title implies, I am looking for a recommendation. I had searched, and could not find much new information. For awhile now, I have ridden soft boots, I ride in PA, so not much powder, once in awhile and some crud, I usually get to VT and out west though. I am now riding hard boots and do not see myself riding soft boots all that much anymore. I may sell a Prior BX 68 that I got last year. anyway, my question is, what would be a good board for crud around here and fresh snow in VT or out west, like Utah etc. I do not want a swallowtail or something that can only be used effectively in powder, but something powder orientated that can preferably be ridden with soft or hard boots. I probably want something in the 170 +/- range, I weigh 220 5'9-10ish I currently have a Hard boot board, the Prior BX for soft boots and a Burton Triumph for soft boots that is like my woods/dont care board. thanks in advance.

as you showed above, that is what I want to trade, Looking to trade one for the other: Traditional for BP</SPAN> http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/TD3-2nd-Board-Kit_p_26.html</SPAN></SPAN> thanks,</SPAN> send me an email or message with what you feel is fair, used for 2 days, I had the power plates and was not thinking I would end up on a plate. I should have bought the BP version from the start being that I had the other parts from the powerplats already.

I want to trade the TD3 regular parts for th TD3 parts for plates. I have 3 degree cants and blue elastomers or I will sell the regular TD3 parts outright thanks,

makes sense, i need absolutely no help tightening top or sides of foot, some soft boots, like burton flat out are too small in the instep area. with Malamutes, the bottom half of my boots is just snug, not at all tight, can wiggle toes and all, the upper half i have very tight though. but my ankle/heel is fairly narrow, and below my calf muscles, is sort of narrow, so thats slightly a problem area, but I was really not sure why people downsize, I just thought an overall size thing or for angles. thanks for the insight, makes sense though, maybe I will have to try some heads and see, I am going to a bootfitter in the fall, but was curious while this experience from yesterday was still fresh in my mind.

I am in 700's now, I have also tried RC-10's, they did not accomodate my instep what so ever, tons of pressure, barely buckled. I am going to go to a boot fitter, but I am wondering if part of it as I said I have been in the right size overall length boot, but my foot shape just does not work. I realize they can change shapes of boots somewhat, but if getting a bigger size and having comfort and everything in the heel/calf tight, I don't see any reason that would not work.

as the title implies, has anyone ever been fitted or used arch sizing more than overall length sizing? I got to thinking a bit today. I was buying some new running sneakers, and I went to a running store, and tried a bunch of stuff, but also got measured for sizing. Using the Brandock I think its called, the measuring device... Overall length i am almost 270 or US 9, but using arch length, I am a solid 10 closer to 10.5 also, I am only standard width, I do not have a wide foot... and with sneakers, the best fit is generally with size 10, even though there is room in the front, and thinking back, the only snowboard boots that did not hurt me were my "too big" soft boots from awhile ago. so, I am wondering, because of my arch length, have I been wearing the "correct" size boot that is actually too small and that is why my instep has had tons of pain, and it feels like my foot is being crushed and squeezed from above and the sides. if my heel and shins/calves are tight and held in place, does overall length really matter? thanks in advance for any replies

I have a question for you guys that ski and snowboard and are proficient at both, do you find that you worry about your knees skiing? I mean i just have visions at times of catching an edge or falling or something, and knee twisting and all that.... also, I think part of it for me, and this may be solved if we had more boot options, it seems like people have a lot of problems with snowboard hard boots and fit. we have only 2 currently made options (UPZ and Deeluxe), and another in Head that there are some left, but no longer produced, or using ski boots which seem to need a fair amount of modifications, where ski boots come in many different widths and shapes, so it seems like people are able to find somthing that works better for them in a ski boot. do you agree? I am not sure if this is true, maybe I have only ever tried on wider last boots and that's why they worked so well. with that said, this forum is great, without this forum I would not have known about many things. Also, Carver's Almanac, I would have had no idea about snowboard hard boots, bindings or manufacturers.

I wanted to reply to this thread and share some observations and thoughts on it.</SPAN> At my local mountains, in Northeastern PA, Elk and Sno Mountain, along with anywhere else I have ever been, there is always more skiers, nothing new, we all know there are more skiers than snowboarders.</SPAN> At my local mountains, I see very few new snowboarders, I see a lot more new skiers, and I have known several people particularly younger than me, I am 27, that have switched to skiing. </SPAN> When friends or people ask me about the 2, or even when I worked in the rental shops, I would tell them skiing is easier at first, snowboarding seems to be more fun once you get the hang of it, while not progressing a whole lot, and both are about the same to get really good and truly carving on either, snowboarding may even be harder, as I think a lot of skiers just do not want to or care to truly carve on skis.</SPAN> I may not be the best ambassador for snowboarding, but I have always said, if I could quickly get to the level I am on a snowboard on skis, (I will admit that when I started I switched to snowboarding as it was the cooler of the 2), I would switch or at least learn skiing. I get to ride 20 - 30 days a year if I am lucky, so basically I do not want to put all my time and energy into learning and not having as much fun, then there’s another set of equipment to buy… </SPAN> I also see this, as far as back country or anything like that I see snowboarding as hindering what you are able to do. Particular for hiking/traverses, where you can skin or skate with skis and stay on top… also, when you have to drop something or start into a chute, I think it would be much easier on skis than snowboard, you can generate more speed quicker and have better balance.</SPAN> I think many people realize the same things, almost everyone that I knew that did both has gravitated more towards skiing.</SPAN> I just got into hardbooting, and for whatever reason, when I demoed boots, they worked out much better than my own boots have so far, before the season I will be seeing a bootfitter who can hopefully straighten it out, but I have never had a problem with ski boots, whether rental boots or friends boots. Part of this may be due to the fact that heel lift is not as much of a problem in ski boots, so with snowboarding to prevent heel lift, the extra tightness creates other problems, but I have never had trouble with an overlap design boot. I have had snowboard soft boot problems except my first pair, that was k2 clickers, and I did not have as many problems with burton step-ins either, I would assume it is pressure from the straps, and finally, I got stuff worked out with my soft boots this past year with no pain. I hope I am able to get it straightened out, otherwise I may end up going towards skiing some too. I kind of went off on a tangent, but I see way more new skiers mainly park kids, and even younger racers, locally I see almost no one on a snowboard in hardboots, and the “park rats” are mainly skiers now.</SPAN>

not sure on the camber, but I do not think the 178 is really too big, Fin saw what I was riding at ECES and started me on a Prior FLC 177, and it went fine. he said he wanted to make sure I rode something a bit bigger than I was on in soft boots. You are bigger than me, and have that 170 Saber now, so I would assume it would probably work out about the same for you. I bought a Coiler VSR 180, and only rode it a little bit, but no problem with it at all.

currently, I issue standby letters of credit for a bank. I have experience here, along with in the wire area of the bank. I worked for a smaller company that has turned into a general marina and fiberglass repair and fabrication. I did everything for that company from mechanical work to shipping to purchasing, etc. that was mainly while I was in college. I would be looking for a job in banking or insurance, sales or marketing/management, basically business related, but no accounting. so I have a pretty broad area that I can work in. I know I could find a job in Boston or New England, but that is a decent drive to the mountains, and as some have said, I would probably not go as much, or my trips out west would still be where I would get most of my riding in. I don't mind where I am as ski areas are very close, but there is no upward mobility with regards to work, unless you are a doctor, lawyer or own your own business basically. but where I am, riding really is nothing to brag about. anyone know how the job outlook is in Vermont? Life is truly a trade off of sorts. We can not usually have everything we want, I know I couldn't as I am not insanely wealthy (to have a few houses in key locations to travel between for my hobbies). I know I could move anywhere I want and snowboard, but I need a little different type of job than I would be guaranteed, and like I said I am into other stuff also.

yes, I figured NC and PA are really not that much different NC is way higher elevation where the mountains are. I have just been wondering about different areas, where I am currently, there is not a lot of upward mobility as far as jobs go. I could live in VT pretty easily, except, when I have looked, I never found too many jobs. also, I am into other stuff a bit, including performance boats, so that would be part of it for considering the south, and taking longer trips out west and a weekend or 2 in the east. I have been to Colorado and Utah a few times, and I never really fell in love with either. Utah/SLC, snow was great, people were friendly, just have not found many jobs, and I am not sure I would want to live there. Colorado, Denver wasn't bad, but sort of a lengthy drive to the mountains, depending where you wanted to go. Also, I did not fall in love with it. I snowboad, golf, fish, hunt, shoot, boats and cars a little bit. I would not be hunting any where other than our property in PA really, so that doesn't matter a whole lot, but the south would be pretty good for the other stuff, PA is very humid also, so I am used to that.