BXFR70

I am looking for a set of Palmer PLS Shock riser plates. I am also looking for some Gecko Cross plates. These, I have never tried and would be looking used to save some money to try... Please send a PM thanks

My experience was in the lower more locked in position. The upper position for the back attachment had even more play in the back. Once in the lower position the back was fine. And the disengagement was of a toe cleat. I basically just twisted my boot and was seeing how much the bindings were flexing etc. Similar to Steven's report above. My play and issues were basically in the front half of the binding. I was hoping they had the locked in feeling of the older bindings. Maybe they will refine or offer more binding sizes or work on that more.

I wanted to share some information on my experience with Burton Step On’s. I did get a set, but never rode them. Except on carpet. I was unimpressed with the amount of play in the bindings/boots interface. The boots did not fit me very well either (no Burton boots do). But, I think their performance/fit really depends on the boot size. The bindings fit multiple boots as you know, and they seem to move the size and location of the toe cleats forward/back and up/down in order to fit into the bindings. I had size 10.5 boots. With a 10.5 boot, I could lift the toes of my boot a good centimeter at least before they hit the top of the cleat holder on bindings (during this time, there was no input to the board). Compared to being strapped into bindings, there was much more play in the set that I had. This equated to much more movement so to speak before the board moved. On carpet, I was also able to really flex them side to side and get a cleat to disengage as well. I may be in the minority, but I liked the original step-ins. They had a slight bit of side to side controlled movement, but you were really attached to the board. For me, they were much more reactive than strap bindings. I would say these new bindings are much closer to straps, and for me actually had much more play. Also, the reflex baseplate is not as stiff as older generation Burton baseplates. The Photon boots are mid flex in my eyes, if that. They are not as stiff as well used/broken down Salomon Malamutes.

Hello i wanted to see if anyone out there had any Burton/Ibex cant plates specifically the one for 4 hole pattern and also a set of Burton bindings with the re:flex center disks? i ask because I have been using older Burton bindings with the cants. And, the new "step on" looks intriguing. I absolutely need to use the Burton/Ibex cant but wondering if the re:flex disc would work and let me ride angles in the mid to upper 20's degrees. Currently I have the offset center disks but a square is a square so any 4 hole disk will work it will just use a different reference point. But the re:flex bindings do not have 360 degrees of teeth. So they may not work. Any help anyone can give in advance would be good thanks

Or best reasonable offer

Sorry for late response they are size medium

up for sale are 2 sets of Burton C60 bindings. Both are complete, they are older stiffer C60's. The older set with the honeycomb style has some stress cracks in the resin/epoxy on the highbacks. The fiberglass/carbon are not cracked. Original straps on one set, other had had the ankle straps replaced. Any new Burton toe or ankle strap will work on these as well. Asking $325 shipped to lower 48 for both sets. Best reasonable offer for either set. money order, cashed before shipment, or paypal gift. Thanks,

For sale is a set of Bomber Power Plates. They are in good shape and include the following: 6 degree cant disc (1) 3 degree cant disc (1) 0 degree cant disc (1) blue elastomers (2) Screws to board (8) Screws for power plate to cant disc (6) Center discs 4x4 (2) asking $160 Paypal gift or money order. thanks,

The malamutes are quite a bit larger volume wise than drivers. The drivers that I have tried are one of the lowest volume soft boots. Did they change the drivers dramatically this year? From my research Ride boots are even lower volume.

I figured I could give you some information regarding 1 of these bindings at least, and indirect about the other 2. For awhile, I have been on older Burton C60’s, the ones that had the highback they called carbon, with a couple small cutouts with the old style forward lean adjustment. I upgraded to Burton Diode ankle straps, made a huge difference. I now have some Flux DM’s. The Flux baseplate I would say is just as stiff as the older C60, these have a full base, not padding under the heel like newer C60’s. The highback is not as stiff, but the binding feels more balanced than the C60 front to back. The C60 highback is stiffer, but straps less supportive. I do not LEAN on my highbacks or really feel them all that much while riding. I would say that my best riding, with the most ease, was with Burton soft boot step in bindings. I believe this is that I felt so connected/locked to the board. With that said, I think the single best thing about newer bindings, Diode or Flux DM compared to old is the ankle strap. The surface area is a lot larger. I feel that it holds me in and makes me feel much more supported and locked in. The older straps needed to be tighter, and didn’t really hold much of the boot. The new straps don’t just let you fold the boot over as much. The diode baseplate is a lot more flexible than the others. The el Hefe’s are probably stiffer than the Flux or Diode, but, with what I said about straps, I would guess not as supportive or locked in feeling, the straps appear to be not as large as the other 2 mentioned. I have retrofitted Burton Diode straps to my Flux DM’s, and keep the Flux as backup. To do this, you need to counter bore the back of the ladder and tongue in order to create a recess for mounting hardwear. The Diode straps are a little larger surface area than the Flux. One thing, that I love about the Flux for soft boot carving is that on the toe strap, the ladder part that goes through the buckle is routed under another plastic piece and held tighter to the strap itself. I used to bend and then ultimately break Burton ladders on the rear foot. I think that newer bindings are a bit more durable, and the el Hefe hardback is probably constructed much better than older “carbon” bindings were, but the Flux and Diode are nylon and polycarbonate respectively, probably a little more flexible, and potentially less brittle. As far as boots, I used to use Driver X, until I realized that they just did not fit my feet well, too low volume, I switched to Malamutes. 2 years ago, I bought Malamutes, Driver X, and Deeluxe Vicious, and last year, I tried on K2 Stark, the new kwicker. The Driver X were way too low volume, the Vicious had a strange fit, large heel area, with a narrower forefoot in comparison. The K2 just did not fit that well, little lower volume, but not as much as Driver X. Buy the stiffest boot that fits you the best would be my suggestion. Hope this helps.

It really depends how the shipper codes it and what value they assign to each code. You will definitely pay with UPS or Fedex. I know USPS is not as strict or careful about collecting import duties. I have some experience with watches from Europe. You may ask the seller or shipper how they will code and what value they assign. Hope this helps.

3 degree still available for trade or sale, 0 still available for sale or trade also.

3 degree has been traded 0 available for sale still.

I have a 0 degree cant plate, and a 3 degree cant plate. I would like to trade or sell either for a 6 degree. Both are in excellent condition. The 0 has not been used on the snow. I will sell each for $20 shipped to lower 48. Or, trade one for a 6 degree. Paypal gift or money order. Money order cashed before shipment. Thanks,

Hey, I found out today, I didn't click the right thing, that price increase I told you was to just add a WRX to my existing policy. So, it is actually only a 13% increase for me. Much better.

One more thing. Have you checked your insurance? I just checked today. 30 yrs old clean driving no tickets accidents etc. Discounts for various things, a WRX was more than double my Tundra. The Tundra has a sticker of 9k more also.

No, the ground clearance never caused any problems. It is low, but not that low. I did not think it was really any lower than most regular non awd sedans. I drove it in the winter quite a bit, actually from PA to VT to ECES in 2012, Thurs night into Friday, I think they got a decent amount of snow that day and night. I would say that on roads, that were packed down or plowed somewhat, it was actually better than a 4wd truck. I did not have any issues in snow with it, and I think that in untouched snow, the ground clearance would not matter all that much. It would be piled up plowed snow I would worry about. But, in that kind of snow, I never had any issues at intersections and side streets where snow gets piled up. You do need snow tires though, the stock tires are useless in the snow. I used Dunlop Wintersport 3D I think they were. They were good in snow and did not give up a ton on dry/wet roads. I drove it on dirt roads and gravel quite a bit also, my cabin where I hunt and fish etc is around 2 miles of dirt to get to. It worked fine in that regard, and I think that you can play with the differential for that if some issues. I also drove it up a power line, very loose shale and small rock on the "road." It did fine with that also. One hunting season we ended up with a bit of snow that then melted, and made a complete muddy mess of the road, and it did fine up the hills on the road, actually, with the summer tires. I had inches of mud caked in everywhere possible from those couple of days. I know the new WRX CVT has the differentials and the si drive like the STi does. I think the manual WRX has open diffs, a friend of mine had an Impreza, and it was nowhere near as good in the snow or low traction situations as the STi was. Hope this helps.

Mike, I had a 2011 STi sedan. anything specific you want to know?

There are some articles about it, http://finance.yahoo.com/news/m-x-pass-gives-skiers-150800997.html and http://www.denverpost.com/business/ci_27685406/new-m-x-pass-aims-dethrone-epic-pass among others. Seems like a pretty good deal for someone who travels a bit.

I am looking to buy Palmer PLS Shock, color does not matter. The better condition the better obviously. I do need all the parts though, so all 8 of the standoffs. I wanted to see if anyone had any they do not use, or forgot about etc. You may send me a message on here. thanks,

I wanted see if there was any interest in trading me a BP 2nd board kit for my standard. I have 3 and 6 degree cants and blue elastomers. I would need 3 and 6 degree cants for the BP assemblies. This would all have to happen pretty quickly early this week. Let me know if there is any interest. Thanks in advance.

It is 170 overall length, 145 effective edge I believe. The nose is a little longer, than the normal BX version. 25 waist. 8.5/11 VSR. I have not measured perfectly but I think its around 11 mm of taper. Metal construction carbonium topsheet.

new soft boot board

PM or email? PM does not appear to be working, and I have not recieved anything in actual email. timeless61 (AT) aol . com

I was 225 when it was built, but, Bruce has said that he doesn't really like to build for much over 200. So, I think around 200. I will say I did not think it was stiff, I do not mean that in a bad way. BTW, the first number is the core thickness, and the + whatever is the decamber, I am not sure exactly what that signifies though.